New answers tagged shutter-release
Sensor damage solely depends on the number of photons that hit an individual pixel on a sensor. Every pixel in a sensor has a well-depth. This is the number of electrons that a pixel can hold. When the well-capacity/depth is exceeded the electrons bleed into other pixels, which causes damage to the sensor. So, any time you are over-exposing the sensor and ...
If you're shooting in summer daylight with very long exposure times, regardless of whether you damage your sensor or not, you're going to get a completely blown out image, with no recoverable data. If you want very long exposures in bright light, your only real choice is to cut the amount of light going through the lens. For this, you'd normally use a ...
As long as you aren't pointing the camera at the sun, lasers etc. (see this question) You should be ok, at worst you'll get a completely over exposed image and the camera may give an over heating warning or the battery will run flat. This is based on the general consensus (google to the rescue): ...
You can also skip the external intervalometer altogether and try Magic Lantern. It supports exposure bracketing by the shutter or ISO. It would be in camera and free.
According to page 170 of the manual the only way to have it automatically do it on its own is to remote/timer setting with 2 second or 10 second timer. This will result in all three shots taken with one press. Otherwise, you have to hold down in continuous modes or press three times in single shot modes.
CamRanger is a good system, although pricey it also does quite a bit more that you may find useful. Here's some information
There are a lot of options on Amazon, like this one. The basic idea is you put the camera in bulb mode and use the intervalometer to control the shutter. Some may have AEB settings, or you can adjust it yourself.
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