by Jakub

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The included documentation often does lack. I don't have that camera but you should be able to find further very detailed info on the Nikon website discussing each feature. Here's a couple links to get you started. They have a lot to offer there. http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/dslr/basics/ http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/index.page


Doing as you mentioned by keeping same distance and moving backwards usually produces the best results. Note using manual focus is usually the most accurate option. Using the continuous auto modes works quite well on the pro line sports camera and not too bad on the better consumer models. You should really read the Nikon documentation for ...


Unique Techniques: Try zooming in/out during exposure. Try rotating the camera during exposure.


This looks to me like a badly smeared lens, I have taken loads of photos with this much contrast and never seen blooming like this, but dirty lenses (or damaged coatings on my cheaper old film cameras) give exactly this effect. As Mike Sowsun said in the comments, a cheap or dirty filter could also have this effect. The effect will in fact be consistent ...


The shirt is extremely overexposed. As a consequence, the sensor pixels start to leak charge to the surrounding pixels, which leads to the glow. Short of controlling the lighting of the scene to reduce contrast, you can only avoid that by reducing exposure, which will leave the engine underexposed. You could shoot two pictures and combine them in post ...


Use AI-Servo and Continuous shots and hope for the best. You can try with one point or more. All these will sometimes work, otherwise fail. It's all about taking chances. It's about luck

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