Hot answers tagged repair
15
For all the following: YMMV*, caveat emptor, no responsibility taken for advice given, you decide whether to try this at home. It may even work :-). Be aware that damage may already be fatal and/or that fatal (to the lens) damage may occur along the way. Best attitude is to regard the lens as a writeoff now, with anything you can gain from it by the methods ...
10
I've had two lenses repaired. 10-22 which was obliterated by a skier on a half-pipe (it ended up looking very much like your lens) and a 50 f/1.4 which I dropped onto concrete. Both of which came back optically as good as before they were damaged, as far as I can detect. The 10-22 does however have a ski mark down the side which will probably reduce the ...
10
Unless you're a camera technician, it's broken beyond self-repair.
Don't mess around with flashes if you're not skilled with high-voltage electronics and camera internals. Flashes need to store charges of 300V or so in order to work, and may not discharge all the way when you turn the camera off. If you open up your camera and touch the wrong thing, you'll ...
10
While I doubt that Canon has a sweeping 'no lemon' policy beyond what is offered in their basic warranty language, I will say this: photographers who are Canon Professional Services members are offered services well above and beyond those that are offered within the basic warranty language.
As someone who over the years has had equipment lens malfunctions ...
9
There really isn't all that much you can do with lenses yourself without making things worse. It sounds like something mechanically is wrong, and the only way to fix that is going to be to open up the lens.
I would take it to a Nikon authorized repair shop. If you are in the US, this form will take you to the list of authorized repair shops.
9
After trying as few things and playing around with the flash with no success, I found the following thread on the web.
The advice given is :
Rub all the battery contacts very briskly with a clean rag that is
just ever so slightly damp.
I actually works! To rub the terminals inside the battery compartment I wrapped a thin, slightly damp rag around ...
8
You can test the polarizing effect by placing a non-circular polarizing filter in front, you should be able to place it at an angle that almost eliminates light transmission. However I highly doubt that the scratches will have an effect on it's ability to filter polarized light!
As already stated scratches on the front of a lens typically have a minimal ...
8
The end of the lens is extremely out of focus, it takes a lot of damage to be immediately visible. One test I've heard of is to attach a few strips of post-it paper to the front of the lens - you'll barely be able to see the difference.
The most likely effect will be a slight blurring of the image. Take a couple of pictures of a static scene using a tripod, ...
8
The images should be aligned horizontally. It's difficult to imagine the rangefinder mechanism becoming misaligned yet remain working, and the ocular optic is common to both halves of the system. That means that either the main primary (the "whole picture" view system at the end pointing to the subject) or the periscope (the rangefinder) primary has become ...
7
Probably not - even if the repair were to cost less than the value of the lens it sounds like you're getting on fine without the lens, and are probably ready to move on to a better lens.
The only reason you might repair it is to sell, but without a free estimate you're taking a risk that you will lose money through this.
My advice would be to write it off ...
7
F-mount lenses are locked in place by a small metal pin that pulls flush with the lens mount when you press the lens release button. This pin would be in the three-o'clock position when you're looking where the lens mount would be. On auto-focus bodies like your D90, there's a second pin for the focus motor that does the same, and it's at the seven-o'clock ...
7
The 99% likely best answer is, of course, to send it to a competent camera repairer.
Odds are 'It's broken'.
However, just in case, and very very unlikely, try the following.
These have almost no chance of being successful, but in a few cases may work:
Remove & replace lens.
Is mirror stuck up?
If so, DO NOT TRY to move it. Take to repairer.
If ...
6
Sounds like something has entered the lens and jammed the mechanics somehow. It sounds like it's in need of professional attention, but you might get away by gently tapping the lens onto a clean surface.
If you can afford to write the lens off, there's always the possibility of dissecting the lens and making some interesting shots of the lens internals that ...
6
There are repair shops that will give you an estimate of repair cost, or even better a no obligation quote. Then it's a simple case of comparing the repair cost with the used value of the equipment (trawling ebay is a good avenue for this), giving a slight bias toward repair to make up for the risk of buying used.
6
I don't know that re-chroming is a good idea -- to have it done anything like properly means taking the body (and probably the back(s), assuming they're in the same sort of condition) down to nothing, then going further still. They need to be taken down to the bare brass, polished, then replated (normally with nickel, then chrome). Careful masking (usually ...
5
There is a way to find out if the focal lengths were accessible earlier. Given that you haven't had any other lenses in the same focal length range, you could use a tool like ExposurePlot to run over your older photos and see if you have ever used any focal lengths in the now inaccessible area. The results are shown in 35mm equivalent, so look for usage of ...
5
The only course of action here is to get the lens professionally serviced. Once mould spores have got into your lens and started to grow like this there is no other way to get rid of them. In order to prevent this in the future always store your camera in a sealed bag with a couple of sachets of silica granules to absorb any moisture that may have got into ...
5
First, check the AF/M switch on the D5100 camera body. This is at the left-hand side of the camera (from the photographer's point of view) near the bottom, below the lens release button. Make sure it's set to "AF". Similarly check the "M/A - M" focus mode switch on the lens. Make sure it's set to set to "M/A".
Beyond that, see if you can narrow the ...
5
If the lens is under warranty, by all means check to see if it's covered. Assuming it's not, though, your first step needs to be assessing the value of your lens. Go to ebay and see what these lenses are selling for used -- that's what you'd expect to be able to sell yours for if it's working. If you're going to consider sending the lens to be repaired, ...
5
All brands of camera produce bad copy of a model. Maybe your G11 was a bad copy, maybe there was an accident that you were not aware of that has somehow forced the dust/particle into the lens.
Anyway, I won't go so far to say avoid all Canon products. It is like saying "I won't buy anything Apple makes!" when you drop your iPhone for the first time and the ...
5
You can try to take it part which is the only sensible thing to do for this camera. Even if you fix it, some components are broken, so it will never be the same.
Repair is out of the question because it will cost more than the camera itself. Once I brought a $119 camera which my daughter broke and they asked for $150 to fix it. I said, that it was more than ...
5
If the lens is stuck to the camera, you most likely have a distorted barrel. Most often this happens if the lens bumped against something while being attached to the camera. This can deform the lens mount and sometimes also some parts inside the lens. This can prevent the zoom/focus ring from turning smoothly. I had that issue with some heavier lenses over ...
4
If it's a Nikon, you can try to sell it for parts. Some people buy trashed AF Nikkors to get the contact block - this can then be added to a old MF lens to "chip" it. I did this with my old 18-55.
[edit]: now I see the "Canon" tag. But the answer is still relevant to those whose trashed lenses are Nikkors.
4
Hrm...it's weird that your sensor would be damaged with a mid-afternoon shots of the sun.
Were you directly pointing to the sun?
Were these long exposures of the sun?
Were you using LiveView (on an SLR)?
How big are the pink spots?
When did you take the shots, and how long have you let the body rest before trying again?
Perhaps try letting the body rest ...
4
Given the age of the OM-1, it's a fair guess that the only way to get a replacement mirror would be to buy a junk OM-1 with a good mirror, and remove the mirror from one body and transplant it into the other. As you've already found, the mirror is quite fragile, so doing this would be fairly difficult.
Second, it's easy to find film cameras in good ...
4
Canon's warranty terms state that a defective lens:
will be repaired with new or
comparable rebuilt parts or exchanged
for a refurbished Product, as
determined by Canon or the authorized
service provider n their sole
discretion.
I find nothing to indicate that Canon specifically has any sort of "no lemon" policy.
Terms found by browsing ...
4
The lenses are a fairly straight forward an economic decision. The camera perhaps less so as various things wear out and fixing one thing MAY leave another fail soon afdter. Or not.
If the glass is good and the lens is not physically beaten to death then you can get a quote for repair and see how the cost compares to a new or equivalent lens.
I had a ...
4
I have done this a few times with other canons, not the 7D though, my question to you is are you comfortable with micro assembly, very fragile connectors, documenting your take down etc?
Typically they use small Philips and some specialized ones as well take a look here for a visual guide.
Their are other issues, such as needing a special pry tool you ...
4
From the image you have posted, it seems that the gears in the zoom lens are broken, it will not be possible to fix this, however, you can try to replace the whole lens assembly. The replacement part is on sale for USD 53 here.
P&S cameras are generally tightly packed and hard to put back together when opened. I would recommend discarding the camera so ...
3
The best way is to take it to a certified nikon repair center to have it checked out, if it's under warranty. Otherwise seek out a camera repair person who can service it for you.
See this related question for why attempting to fix your pop-up flash is a bad idea. To summarize: you could seriously injure or kill yourself if you try.
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
