Hot answers tagged rear-lcd
Read the histogram, not the image on the LCD. In addition to errors because of screen brightness vs ambient brightness, the image on your screen is corrected by your camera before showing it on the screen. Most cameras allow you to adjust that, to remove saturation/sharpening adjustments, but you're still trying to judge your raw image based on an "edited" ...
Histogram is the best way to judge. How are you shooting? If you're shooting in JPEG, you should check your camera settings to see if you have the brightness turned up or contrast down or something strange like that. Assuming you're shooting in raw and opening the files in something like lightroom, then you're probably actually overexposing. Because ...
This is a function of the sequential writing of images to the memory card. The camera can't write one image after the other while also generating previews and displaying them. It is not controlled by a setting. You could probably do it with tethering (connecting the camera to a computer as you shoot) but that is very situation dependent.
One solution for this is to use a hood. It's basically a black box that you place on your display. You look into it through a little eye piece that often also magnifies. Take a look at what's available at B&H for example. As you can see, making the image brighter is not a good solution. It will eat up more battery while still being unable to compete ...
Depending on what camera you use, under exposure may not be a problem at all. Typically most modern serious sensors give you a lot of leeway in downward latitude. You can always readjust your exposure in lightroom if you shoot raw. I have successfully pushed the raws from my camera by 3 stops (although I don't recommend that!). But digital sensors are ...
I haven't heard of this particular problem for this model, but it's a common-enough issue that LCD screens don't give accurate results. I wouldn't worry about it too much — use the histogram and other tools (like Highlight Alert) to judge exposure. If you want to use in-camera JPEG processing, you'll soon become familiar with how saturation, contrast, and ...
Most Nikons that I have taken apart use the flip-up type ribbon connectors, you have to flip up the top edge, insert ribbon and flip down. If you tried just pushing it in flat its unlikely to have gone in far enough. This is a very common type of connector on electronics (Laptops, cameras etc)
So, you can't — there's no option for this. However, if you use the EVF only + eye sensor mode, and then press the DISP button while looking at the rear screen, it will a cycle between: no-distraction live view (only showing the scene) live view with shooting info (aperture, ISO, focus mode, etc., as configured in the settings menu) a black and white ...
Since the lines don't show up on the actual photo's, I would guess that the problem is with the LCD panel itself. It's possibly a problem with whatever is driving the panel (bad connection maybe?) but I'm guessing it's the panel. Unfortunately the only sure way to know is to try replacing it and see if the problem goes away.
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