Hot answers tagged rear-lcd
One solution for this is to use a hood. It's basically a black box that you place on your display. You look into it through a little eye piece that often also magnifies. Take a look at what's available at B&H for example. As you can see, making the image brighter is not a good solution. It will eat up more battery while still being unable to compete ...
It could be something as simple as a connector between the camera's circuit board and the LCD screen coming loose. Unless you are willing to take a chance and repair it yourself, it really isn't worth repairing. The Kodak P880 was a good camera in it's time but it is now over 10 years old. The current used replacement cost is only about $50. At that price ...
Most Nikons that I have taken apart use the flip-up type ribbon connectors, you have to flip up the top edge, insert ribbon and flip down. If you tried just pushing it in flat its unlikely to have gone in far enough. This is a very common type of connector on electronics (Laptops, cameras etc)
So, you can't — there's no option for this. However, if you use the EVF only + eye sensor mode, and then press the DISP button while looking at the rear screen, it will a cycle between: no-distraction live view (only showing the scene) live view with shooting info (aperture, ISO, focus mode, etc., as configured in the settings menu) a black and white ...
Since the lines don't show up on the actual photo's, I would guess that the problem is with the LCD panel itself. It's possibly a problem with whatever is driving the panel (bad connection maybe?) but I'm guessing it's the panel. Unfortunately the only sure way to know is to try replacing it and see if the problem goes away.
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