Dracula's Castle

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Yes it can be simulated, but not as a 1 click process. (well some aditional clics needed) The basic idea is to diferenciate a bit the image from the background. I would diferenciate 3 levels of controll of the effects: 1) This fast filters JDlugoz mentioned, where you define an area of influence. 2) Doing a more elaborated mask and separating the layers. ...


Photoshop now comes with a fancy "filter" that can add DOF to a image that is overly flat (like a phone picture). You can use another feature to "select in focus" for foreground and then paint a rough grayscale for depth; e.g. A gradiant top-to-bottom as first approximation, and then paint solid grey rectangles for objects at different distances. Then, ...


For the purpose that you are asking the answer is "No". Sort of. Unless you are using what is known as a Light Field Camera such as the Lytro, you can't change the aperture at which the shot was taken after the fact any more than you can change the shutter speed. There are editing tools that allow you to artificially create blur to parts of an image, but ...


No, its not possible with a single photo. But you could take multiple photos, at different focus points or apertures. Then they can be combined in post processing, to give the effect of a different depth of field. You would have to keep the camera in the same position between shots, and it wouldn't work for moving subjects. This could work for either RAW or ...


No - the aperture is set by the physical blades in the lens when you take the photo; a RAW "image" contains the readings from the sensor when the photo was taken, so there's no way you can go back and modify the light which was captured by the sensor. While it's not as obvious, this is equivalent to asking "Can I modify what the camera was pointing at from a ...


As far as I know, this is the only way to get the Photos application to work with the RAW file at all. If you use the edit features without doing this, you are working with the JPEG file instead of the RAW, with all that entails.


may i give a new solution in a notepad enter the following ren *.RAW *.JPG copy *.JPG *.RAW then save the file as convert.bat in the same folder of the image and double click the convert.bat. this converst the raw files to jpeg then copies the jpeg and save it as .RAW files again. it uses Command prompt in windows to execute the command.


Okay you want to view Raw photos. http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/rawviewer http://www.fastrawviewer.com/download Probably the first link is what you want.


I've done this many times with Lightroom. Since "use camera white balance" is different from what your program shows, I would open (view) the "preview JPEG" and then use gcolor2 on linux or colorcop on windows to analyze the color values. Use the dropper to select what you perceive to be the best color. Copy those numbers to a textpad. I would use that ...


I'm not familiar with your exact camera, but I have done some image processing using Matlab in the past. It sounds like what you're seeing is the raw image, pre-demosaicing. The reason it looks green is that bayer pattern sensors have twice as many green pixels as red and blue ones. If I'm right, each pixel in your image will have a value of 0 in two out of ...


"I am not able to interpret the three matrices of dimensions 1280x720" -- Because they are four, Red, Green, Blue, Green, and if I remember correctly they use Aptina MT9M021 sensor, 1280 x 960. Dimensions of each matrix is half by half of the dimensions of the sensor, 640 x 480. "If I display the image in MATLAB it looks green if I use the imshow command." ...


I'm guessing you are trying to import the Canon raw files through connecting the Nikon camera to your computer? That won't work. You need an SD card reader. (Your laptop/computer should have one?)


Unfortunately, if the files aren't showing up in Explorer, then the most likely explanation is that they were never written to the card at all for some reason. A couple of things to check before giving up: All modern Canons which can shoot RAW use the .CR2 extension, rather than .CRW. The files will be in a different folder from where your Nikon would ...

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