Moonrise & Aurora

Moonrise & Aurora

by Jakub

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2

Wow. That is analogous to asking a top chef in a top restaurant what you would need to buy to make food as good as his. Or perhaps asking a surgeon what you would need to buy to be able to repair hearts like he did. So, now that I have made my point on experience, practice and skill, I will make an attempt to answer your question: Images such as these are ...


0

For smaller objects a light box and lighting equipment (either fixed or strobe) is a minimum to start. For larger objects, backdrops and larger lights or strobes that will allow you to setup studio lighting. While the equipment is key (you'll probably need at least 3 or more good lights), skill and practice are going to be far more critical. Especially ...


2

That looks like a 3D rendering to me! However to achieve similar results on smaller items you will need: A Grey backdrop and/or black, and some black side panels A piece of thin glass to place under the item to create the reflection Lighting - I would go with a twin-head studio system with soft-boxes (although these seem to use a single source) a long-ish ...


9

Welcome to the wonderful world of macro product photography. First, you need to understand that when you photograph things at high magnification, you won't get a whole lot of depth of field. In this instance, very little is in focus. Look at the leftmost two pendant rings at the bottom of the earring on the right: just that little bit is sharp, and most of ...


2

I think both cameras are wrong for you: Nails are small, to fill the frame with a nail you need a lens with macro capability, the 18-55 kit lens can't do macro. The most important thing for getting images just right is getting the lighting right, the FZ45 does not have a flash hotshoe and can't use external flashes. You can get the D5100 (or any other ...


3

Photographing nail art is essentially product photography. The key to good product photography has less to do with which camera you use and everything to do with lighting the subject properly, so your first concern should be some of the resources mentioned in this question and this one. Having said that, I would recommend the Nikon D5100 over the Panasonic ...


6

There are many improvements that could be made here. Firstly, you need to use a much longer exposure, and a lower ISO setting. Get a tripod, even a cheap one, and use mirror lockup. Could do with stopping down a bit further for depth of field. Post processing You might be able to get away with your current shots, with some post processing. Here I've taken ...


6

The white background effect is usually done by lighting the background and the subject separately, you can't do this with such a small box. There are no camera settings that will help you because your problem is that the difference in brightness between the background and subject is too small - and everything that makes the picture darker or brighter ...


6

You have several opportunities to improve your results! The first thing I would do is increase the light enough to get the ISO down to native resolution for your camera. Probably ISO 100 or 200. You can get the same depth of field (DoF) by increasing the focal length and the focus distance by the same proportion. This will improve the perspective and your ...


-1

You may find this could be a metering issue or colour temperature issue. Use the correct WB setting on your camera for the type of light in your lightbox. Then also use spot metering on the product itself, ensuring your aperture is set small enough for complete front-to-back sharpness. As well as the constant lighting within the box itself I would perhaps ...



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