Slains Castle

by pakman

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I really think this depends on what your are using it for. Generally, most people would get the prime because they have better aptures than their zoom counterparts. Also, for things like birding, most people usually just get a 600mm prime or something along the lines. The reason to not get the zoom is that they can usually just crop the photo if they ...


The 35mm f/2.8 Macro Limited is an APS-C only lens. If you are considering use on a 35mm film camera or a full frame digital camera the image circle will not be large enough to cover the entire frame. The 35mm f/2.0 FA is an older design but is compatible with full frame/35mm film cameras. Both lenses get great reviews with regards to image quality, but ...


For highest image quality the two prime lenses beat the zoom. Here's a side by side comparison of the Tamron 24-70 set at 50mm and f/2.8 with the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art set at f/2.8. Both are Canon versions of the lens mounted on an EOS 1Ds Mark III which is a 21MP Full Frame camera. The 50mm prime is noticeably sharper at all common apertures, especially ...


The focus point (focus selection indicator) is not the in-focus indication. The red point may be lit, but the focus is indicated by the in-focus sound, the dot and the rangefinder (if enabled) in the viewfinder. Note that there are two switches for Manual focusing: using the focus mode switch on the lens (A-M or A/M-M)- set to M using the Focus Mode ...


I faced the same problem when i bought DSLR. Solution is when you set camera to manual focus use viewfinder and keep focusing until you see a green dot on the left corner which indicates wherever you are pointing your camera that part/object it's focused properly.


Since nobody else has said it, I'm going to suggest that your lens is possibly damaged and is no longer necessarily in focus when the camera thinks it is. I say this because I see two problems that I don't think can be accounted for otherwise. The first image shows significant diffraction veiling that shouldn't be there unless it was an exceptionally hazy ...


If you think your focus is off, try manually focusing and see if it improves. I bet it doesn't, the tree looks like it's in focus, to me. Shooting wide open is rarely sharp, but you can see your Depth of Field covers the tree. Your focus point determines where your depth of field is. I think the lack of contrast is another reason the first image looks ...


Many different things could be going on here but the most obvious is that you are shooting at a very wide aperture that will result in a small depth of field. Try increasing your aperture to allow for a larger range of acceptable subject matter. Something like f/5.6 or f/8 is a good range to try. Other obvious answers are covered already on this site many ...

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