Hot answers tagged power
When I get this question from my students, the underlying question is often based on the persistent myth that taking a lens off without first turning off the camera will 'fry' the lens, the camera, or both (depending on who you talk to). With both Canon and Nikon cameras the leftmost pins on the body (when looking at the camera) are the VBat (6 volt lens ...
The main reason to switch lenses while the camera is off it to avoid exposing the sensor to dust while it is charged as that increases the chances of dust sticking to it. It is really not a big deal but if you want to stack the odds in your favor, you know what to do. There is probably an infinitely small chance that turning the lens will cause a lens read ...
I've been changing lenses with the camera on as long as I've been using DSLRs and I know a lot of other photographers who do the same. If there was a significant risk of causing damage the manufacturers would have had it in the neck by now as so many pros do it. I suspect this is another case of there being an astronomically small risk, but the camera ...
The short answer is to ditch the batteries. They're not designed for cold weather. The longer answer is a three-step process: First, and most important, check with your camera's manufacturer to make sure the body will continue functioning in the cold if it has a good source of power. You may have to write and ask this specifically, because the published ...
According to the guys at Magic Lantern, when you open the SD card door and the light flashes while it accesses the SD card, you should wait until several seconds after the light stops flashing as it is still accessing the card (which is silly, because that light has one job!) or you can cause the camera to lock up and drain the battery.
I've just got my camera back from repair and this was apparently caused by water damage to the DC-DC board, an expensive repair but I hope that my camera will now work well for some time to come! I've not yet worked out how the water got in - but I'm suspecting a damp camera bag after a seaside shoot.
I change lenses with the camera on from time to time, but I also always run the dust removal function on the camera afterwards. Now, that may be camera brand specific (Pentax for me), so I don't want to assume it generally applies. The only time I absolutely make sure it is off is when I put a manual lens on because the Pentax SR function will ask for the ...
The Bower XC-CE6 3-in-1 Individual Battery Charger for Canon LP-E6 description at amazon.com says it can charge your LP-E6 batteries via USB. I've never used one.
I have never bothered to turn the camera off when switching lenses. If I ever had any problems like a lens not working properly, it would easily have been fixed by turning the camera off and on again, and it can't have happened many times because I can't recall any incident. Besides, that could just as well have happened if I turned the camera off for ...
I've never bothered to turn off my camera before removing a lens, and so far I haven't broken one because of it. I have had dusty cameras, but I mostly suspect it might cause some electrical glitches somewhere, which is why they want you to turn it off.
Unfortunately, the fact that batteries perform poorly at low temperatures is a fundamental characteristic of most battery chemistries. As such, the only real solution is to either keep the battery warm, or switch to an exotic battery chemistry (and exotic batteries are not easy to get a hold of). The best idea I can think of is to fashion an external ...
I had to take mine to a Canon service center as none of the methods suggested online (switch off, remove battery/lens, insert battery/lens, switch on) made the error code go away. I got the repair covered by manufacturer's warranty. Apparently Error 80 is a somewhat typical error code for this camera model.
I don't know if it's exactly the same thing, but earlier in October, Canon released a product advisory for their LP-E6 batteries and the LC-E6 charger. Full details can be found here.
As the comments to the original question indicate, it depends on exactly which camera you are talking about. Nikon lenses have a mechanical connection for aperture control that is spring loaded at both the camera end and inside the lens that could suffer damage if disconnected while in the wrong position. If the tab on the control lever in the camera is ...
I ended up solving this by doing a very large DIY project. Essentially I took a Canon P&S, modified the power button so it'll turn on when the external timer turns on solar power. I then modified the firmware using CHDK and the Ultimate Intervalometer script, which automatically takes 1 photo every 7 minutes. The photos are saved to the Eye-Fi card, ...
Yes, that is normal, and a correct description. The recessed pin is for safety, to keep out unapproved connections. Be aware that there is about 325 volts on this cable. It does not just attach a battery as such, but attaches a battery powered high voltage converter, which directly charges the flash capacitor.
For your camera and many of Nikon's current and past point-and-shoot models, the Nikon EH-62F will do the trick. Many other brands offer similar accessories for at least some of their models. When the adapter offered has a plastic lump to replace the battery, it means the camera can't be powered using the USB port (if it has one) for anything except ...
The problem may be the voltage rather than the mAH. A standard AA is 1.5 volts. If your battery is only providing 1.2 volts, it may be insufficient voltage for the circuitry to operate on.
How long have you left them on the charger? From completely dead, it can take quite a while to charge the batteries. I would leave the batteries on the charger for 8+ hours and then try them in the camera by itself, without the grip. If they don't work and other batteries do work in the camera, then it sounds like a dead battery. Another option you could ...
Without actually testing, I am reluctant to say with absolute certainty, but I won't let that stop me -- I will just make a list of assumptions :-) Assuming stacked exposures of the same total time as the single bulb exposure, that your are not using dark frame noise reduction, that sensor power efficiency does not get significantly worse as it heats up and ...
In general, there are two problems with low temperatures: The battery capacity is severely reduced; the lower the temperature the less usable capacity. Lubricant or bearings used for the moving parts of the camera may stiffen, so it takes more power to move the shutter and mirror, possibly more than the battery can deliver. Lubricants in cold weather: ...
When I'm out in the cold, I bring several batteries. One's in the camera (of course), and the rest are somewhere warm (inside my coat; near my body). I swap the batteries fairly frequently - probably on the order of once every hour or two, and I've been perfectly happy with the results. I'm using a Canon 40D, and I've used this technique at temperatures ...
The manual for my camera (a Pentax K100D) states that you should turn the camera off to prevent possible damage to the autofocus motor: if you bump the shutter-release button while changing the lens, it's possible that the now-exposed autofocus drive shaft will catch on something.
I think the main reason is to "park" (hard disk terminology) the components. e.g. VC/IS elements can by their nature move around. When you power the camera off, those elements are "parked". I'm pretty certain I've read in manuals/leaflets (yes it's a unsavoury habit I've picked up, I do read manuals..) that come with lenses. This may also be true with focus ...
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