Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
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1

First option. Buy a stereoscopic lens: https://www.google.com/search?q=stereo+lens Option two. For a live action scene or person you can not with one single camera. For a static scene (or a portrait of a person sitting very still) yes you can. a) Point your camera to an imaginary point in the middle of your scene. Take one shoot. b) Move your camera 10cm ...


0

Can you provide me some reference of this? If it's done by increase ISO, is it same as I increase ISO when capturing the photo? If they won't be the same, what's the difference or which way is better? Some cameras have analog ISO gain, some don't. Some cameras may have analog gain implemented only in certain ISO range. Different raw processors may ...


0

I wonder that if I increase the exposure of a RAW in some software, say, Lightroom, what do I lose in the image. It's important to keep in mind that no matter what you do to post-process a raw image to create some other output that is more readily "consumable" (i.e., JPEG, or PNG, etc.), you will lose data compared to the raw file. There is much more ...


4

...is it same as I increase ISO when capturing the photo? If they won't be the same, what's the difference... The end result is similar, but how you get there and the side effects are different. Increasing the ISO setting on the camera results in the addition of gain (amplification) in the path between the sensor and analog-to-digital converter, which ...


0

(Disclaimer: I'm Italian, it's fatiguing for me to write in English and moreover to write in technical jargon. Thus, the following explanation take a few shortcuts to be easier to write and to understand) I'll start from the bottom; increasing ISO in camera cannot obviously be like increasing the exposure of a file, whatever the algorithm used: increasing ...


0

Here is a page where you can get overlays to add the type of light effects you are looking for: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LanternLaneGifts There are a few different ones to choose from, but this one looks close to what you are going for: https://www.etsy.com/listing/210317470 Hope this helps! -Tim


0

The industry standard for viewing color prints is 5500⁰K. I think that this fact is moot when viewing images on a monitor. Becasue the human eye/brain combination has a built-in white balance mechanism, the brain automatically adjusts the sensitivity of our vision system. This occurs all the time but you are likely unaware. Try this test: Procure some ...


0

I use Silver Effex. It may not have as many color sliders as LR, but the final effect looks usually less synthetic than my B&W attempts in LR or PS. I think it is a free download now.


0

I definitely think Caleb and Mark are on the right track. This look can be recreated with careful lighting and wardrobe selections - more so than it can be with editing. The lighting setup looks like a gridded (or modified in a similar fashion) key light to prevent spill - notice there are no shadows on the backdrop. Although, to me, it looks like there ...


0

It's a little while since I've played with that sort of thing to remember (and then not to that level!), but from memory it's about selective desaturation by colour range. I've been a long-standing user of CaptureOne, in which it's quite easy; select the colour range you want, drag it smaller or larger if required, set the saturation and lightness that you ...


1

1) Alt + click On the layer mask to see the mask 2) Shift+ click on the layer mask to hide the mask 3) Ctrl + click on the layer mask to select the masked area


2

This look is primarily about the choice of lighting. Compared to typical headshots and family portraits the light here is very 'hard.' What that means is that the photographer has chosen a small light source that casts very crisp shadows. You can see this by looking at how sharp the shadow cast from his arm onto his jacket is. Larger light sources like soft ...


2

The saturation looks to be decreased a bit, but I don't think low saturation is the right description. There's plenty of color here even if they're not especially bright shades. If saturation were increased more than a little, the model would look oddly orange: In a truly low saturation image he would look more washed out: I think some of the keys here ...


5

Since the cloth is white, and the other colour is black, you could simply desaturate( remove all saturation) at whole region of cloth. I've done the same multiple times


0

The reason for them to look so terrible is aggressive profiling which needs to be done to bring the image data recorded by camera closer to the reality (the bad form of colour sensing to be specific), and it's imperfection is exceptionally obvious with saturated objects. This is very apparent in photos of recent Canon DSLRs because they tend to require ...


1

Regards the hundreds of similar shots, pick one of the bunch and Lightroom process it, sharpen etc, Switch back and select all from the bunch bar the one. Finally get Lightroom to apply the last settings to all selected photos. That should speed up the workflow and mass produce satisfying results. Why not give it a try and see if you like it?


1

I have occasionally understood the problem which you get. You have a slight variance of material at edges of photos and Photoshop is making hard transitions between exposures what results in posterisation. There is a way of overcoming it but it seems to be non-automatable to me. auto-merge without blending images together for each layer 2.1 select the ...


2

I have made a circular 8 bit gradient with sampled edge colour and center colour. This illustrates that it clearly is not the 8bit quantisation problem. I have also took a stare at the source, non-denoised image and I found posterisation there too! This posterisation is already there in first image, denoising only reveals it. There cannot be any ...


0

If you are routinely shooting hundreds of pictures of the same object, you should consider shooting many of these at exactly the same settings. This allows you to replace the demosaicing step where the raw processor uses interpolation to get to RGB values for each pixel. This is always going to be rather inaccurate, especially if there is a lot of noise. ...


0

The number of images you are shooting appears to be excessive. I worked as a self-employed professional photographer and would not shoot that number of images in a month. I had one job which required me to shoot 33,000 images in 6 weeks for a new website but in general terms, you need to apply some sort of discrimination filter to your work. If you are a ...


1

I personally do not think that window looks bad at all. It helps by not distracting, specially becouse you centered the window. If you can see what is outside that wolud be distracting. But lets go on. If you shooted in RAW, try to rescue some information on the highlights moving the curves on that zone. For the hand, crop it. This will make the ...


4

There are a few different issues that you are trying to correct here so let's go through them from easiest to hardest to fix. Some of these fixes are assuming that you are using the most up to date version of Photoshop. The blown highlight in the window most likely cannot be fixed. The in camera image did not capture any information other than pure white ...


1

I always shoot in RAW. ... I do this because I'm an amateur and I like to experiment and I have a happy trigger finger. It's good to know this about yourself. When you're learning, spray'n'pray is a natural trap to fall into. Some of the photos look just fine the way they are, but is it necessary to post-process it in RAW? ... I like to edit ...


-1

You cannot make window darker without making the image unnatural and you cannot restore the details visible through the window because the nature of digital imaging prohibits you to do so - everything bright enough does not have any information at all, it is just "too bright". I find that photo is exposed well and you do not need to manipulate brightness. ...


0

Think of the RAW data file as your negative. You can post process it at any time or in any way that you want. As image processing software changes and gains new features, you can reprocess your image in any manner you wish in newer software. You should keep the RAW file because it is the only complete record of the slice of time you had wanted to capture and ...


0

In addition to the above I don't know if anyone mentioned in camera post processing. It's not as glamorous as photoshop but you can change color balance and lighting in addition to adding a little sharpnes (quick retouch)


4

The process you are describing is commonly referred to as culling images. Any modern photo editing suite will have features to help you accomplish this far more efficiently than a standard file explorer. What works the fastest for me is Photo Mechanic from Camera Bits, Inc. It is extremely fast at viewing full size RAW files without any need to ...


-2

I only post the first step of a method. Shoot less. You need to be more secure on what are you photographing and why are you photographing it. I get it, sometimes you take two exact frames because you feel the focus was wrong, or you corrected a frame. But are you taking photos, just because you were there? or are you making a bracketing just couse you ...


2

I use Lightroom so I answer for that. In LightRoom, I can tag them with something, and later select only tagged ones. Instead of tagging arbitrary photos, try the survey view. With the filmstrip as the only other module visible, you can quickly select a group of images to compare them. Pick your winner and go on to the next selection. You can enhance ...


1

XnViewMP is a freeware advanced viewer which will store all metadata in sidecar XMP files (supported by other programs like Bridge and Lightroom) and has colour labels and ratings and hotkeys. If you need to transfer the "selection" you will need to select your source folders and "update files from catalog" to store metadata permanently in .xmp files. It ...


-2

Just to clarify what a RAW image is, it is the EXACT data from the camera sensor (and RAW images can actually be used for forensic analysis because of this) as well as information about the camera settings that were used when the image was shot (such as white balance). That means that, with a RAW image, you can basically fix any issue caused by camera ...


0

You are not "obliged" to post-process it. If you like the image that the raw data shows you and you feel it needs no changes then by your own criteria it looks good so do nothing to it, unless in the future you change your mind and think it should be changed. You still have the raw file and can do anything you like. I shoot raw only,I would never let the ...


4

According to the Adobe help on camera raw: To toggle visibility of the mask overlay, use the Show Mask option, press Y, or position the pointer over the pin icon. To customize the color of the mask overlay, click the color swatch next to the Show Mask option. Then, choose a new color from the Color Picker.


13

Raw data must always be converted in one way or another for it to be a viewable image at all. When you open a raw file using any image viewer application you are not viewing the raw image (because there is no such thing - there is only raw data). You are either viewing the jpeg preview created in camera and embedded in the raw file or you are viewing a ...


17

From what I understand of your question, you're asking whether a Straight Out Of Camera (SOOC) RAW file should be edited to look "good". The short answer is "Yes, it should go through post-processing". Most (all?) cameras apply their own algorithms to jpg images - in other words, the manufacturer set up the camera to apply what they believe to be ...


1

Open the image in to Photoshop Create adjustment layer for hue and saturation Fade/increase the saturation Paint with black on the layer mask to hide/reveal the color Create another adjustment layer if you required more modifications


0

As it has only recently become free, I'd now experiment with the Nik Collection (of plug-ins to LR and PS) - they do also work standalone. The collection is from Google. It is early days practising here, but instead of using a WB blanket adjustment, start in PS / LR in RAW, then work in Nik, then return a masking layer from Nik into PS. Then you only allow ...



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