Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

submit your photo

Hall of Fame
View past winners from this year

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Tag Info

New answers tagged


Most "true" macro lenses (i.e., those that can achieve 1:1 magnification; that is the image on the sensor is the same size as in real life) can double as extremely sharp portrait lenses, since most of them are f/2.8 longer primes. However, they'll cost quite a bit more than "a few hundreds" (most seem to be in the $400-$1000 range). There might be some ...


Pentax 50mm has the nicest bokeh and sharpness I've ever see... I think you've answered your question. Stick with image quality over anything else. You can always make up for other deficiencies with skill and technique. Shoot for best image quality.


If you are going to make mostly portraits, a 50mm prime would fit you much better. Not only gives you a lower aperture, but the image quality is better with primes. Don't worry about the "ideal" 70-90mm range, 50mm is a classic focal length for portraits.


Use 50mm if you want to separate the person from the bacground, you can always crop the image to simulate the 70mm (at 8Mpix) or 90mm (at 5Mpix). To include enviroment use 17-50/2.8 at smaller focus distances. And take telezoom for larger distances. You may found usefull to experiment with


(I am teasing you:) You seem to be seeking a hard rule that you can apply without thinking, but there are no hard rules, certainly no One rule, and thinking is always helpful. :) It always depends, on the situation, and on what result you want. 70-90 mm is "ideal", if assuming a cropped APS sensor, and assuming a normal subject distance of at least 6 to ...


It also depends on how much background do you want to keep. With the Pentax prime or Tamron zoom lens, you'll get a better background separation, in addition to having more backdrop behind your subject. This will arguably be nicer as the bokeh effect will be more apparent (more concentric circles, soft focus etc.). On the other hand, if you want to get ...


I think that taking a head and shoulders picture with a 50mm lens means that you have to get too close for your subject's comfort and in addition risk some distortion. I've always used 90mm prime lenses with as fast an apeture as my bank balance will permit. As usual with photography, it's a trade off - it's a great lens but I have to move around a good ...


The best thing to do is to manually select the focus point closest to what you want to be the point of focus, and if necessary recompose only slightly from there. That's because turning the camera to recompose moves the plane of focus more than you might think — see this answer for a nice diagram. Typically, with portraits, focusing on the eyes is ...


If you have the luxury to focus with the center point and recompose, then this is your best solution. This is because the center point is the most sensible AF point and will nail the focus the best. Be sure tough to have enough DoF in order to catch the portrait in focus (unless of course if you want to achieve some special effects) and, also, focus ...


I'm shooting a lot with unexperienced models, and to get them more used to a shooting, I try to focus them on something else than the actual shooting. Of course, not every person reacts the same, but talking with them about whatever comes up to your mind and taking shoots while doing that can help them to ease up. Getting them to laugh because something is ...


Assuming this is PORTRAIT photography (where you have one on one time with no event distractions): For very natural expressions, the thing I do is aim to make the subject feel SAFE (always). I mean: EMOTIONALLY SAFE. You must demonstrate that you are not judging them and make an effort to understand and appreciate their issues around taking photos. People ...


The biggest source of information about a lighting setup are the highlights in the eyes. You see one big blob of white in the upper half of it. This is very likely a one light setup. And that light comes from the top. Next thing to find out is what kind of light it is. For that, look at the shadows. The top hair provides a shadow line to examine. Even ...


Your friend probably wants pictures leaning back on the tree trunk, but it can be deep shade back in there (and green light, icky). Your best light will be out under the edge of the tree drip line, in the shade, but inviting open shade instead of deep shade. Maybe try some his way, but at minimum, try some of it the better way.


It really depends on the angle of the sun at the time you take your photos and how much of the background is in the shade and how much is in direct sunlight. Anything from a small reflector to powerful studio strength flashes might be needed for fill light. To use f/2.8 at ISO 400 you're probably going to need some sort of neutral density filter unless you ...

Top 50 recent answers are included