Watching Over

by Vian Esterhuizen

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1

You might direct the complainant to http://edgerton-digital-collections.org/docs-life/wartime-strobe, describing a strobe powerful enough to light a mountain -- so big, it was carried in a B-18 bomber. A photo of the strobe gear is at http://blog.invention.smithsonian.org/2013/11/04/seeing-in-the-dark-aerial-recon-in-wwii/. Of course, that still might not ...


0

This one is sort of a frequent question. I have 2 photos on my computer, one taken with a flash, and one taken on a tripod; the actual subject is a castle on top of a hill taken from another hill somewhere about 500 meters from the castle. That is what I show, and next I ask do I need to go into GNs etc. Most folks are satisfied with the demonstration.


0

I would say something along the line that in order to have a well-exposed picture, you should think of the camera like a bathtub, with light instead of water. In order to have a pleasant bath, you need enough water to cover you without overflowing the tub. Optionally, you can shrink the bathtub, so you need less water to fill it up, but you'll have a less ...


0

I would direct her to the user manual that would explain details such as the guide number of the flash and the effective range of the flash. The user manual would also probably explain about enabling higher ISO, and may even mention recommendations to use a tripod for long exposures to avoid camera shake


0

In a nutshell, what I did was explain to her that the camera has a sensor, which is sensitive to light (as film is for a film camera) That this image sensor ultimately records the light that passes through the lens and is projected onto it. In other words, when there is sufficient light, the camera does this with ease. When there is a lack of light in a ...


0

Such scenes need either to be bracketed (that is shot varying exposure), or exposed according to spotmeter - measure the brightest part where you want to keep details and add 3 stops to exposure. With landscapes, a graduated neutral density filter is very helpful. Polarizing filter may help sometimes too. And of course set your camera to record raw. You ...


9

Like the other answerers have noted, it's not at all obvious which picture is taken with a DSLR — both have some pretty obvious issues, like blown highlights and poor contrast. Rather than enumerating the problems, let me offer a few tips for you and your friend on shooting scenes like this: If in doubt, always underexpose. This goes especially for ...


14

I gather from the aspect ratios (top one is 3:2, bottom one is 4:3), that the top image is the dSLR one, and the bottom image is the one from your TZ40. And at web sizes, while there's some improvement in image quality with the dSLR, it's not a huge amount better, and some could be compensated for with post-processing, rather than using ...


4

Both of those images could easily have been taken by a modern smartphone. To get a better image regardless of format what needs to be done is control of the wide dynamic range in this scene. The sky is very bright and blown out in both images. The ground is much darker. Techniques like HDR, Exposure Fusion, and Graduated Neutral Density filters will all help ...


7

To be honest, I couldn't easily guess which is which when viewed at the default 600-pixel-wide size above. Both handle the dynamic range of the clouds pretty poorly, with the lower image being a little less bad. Looking more closely, the top image has significantly more detail in the trees — but still isn't astounding. (Both are subject to very high JPEG ...


1

I'm going out on a limb and saying the DSLR is first. The most obvious difference is the difference in post processing. If your friend was shooting on RAW on the DSLR, it allows for far better adjustment of contrast in post. Additionally, the larger sensor and better quality optics on the DSLR allowed for some additional sharpness for the trees and also ...


1

With the banner against the wall, rather than separated from it, you have to make the subject look right and fix the background in PS. Use a tripod and take a series of bracketed exposures. Tools for HDR/tone mapping might make quick work of the resulting stack, or IAC the overexposed version is good for making the mask. I have a similar issue with ...


1

ideally you should light the background and the banner separately. This might be quite hard to achieve this look if you are using auto mode though. Does your camera have a manual mode by any chance? Leon


1

I own a PowerShot A495 and recently the lens was stuck in the fully extended mode. Each time I tried to power up the camera I got "Lens Error, automatically shutting down - Restart Camera" - and it would turn off. After visiting a number of locations on the internet, and trying a number of fixes I became desperate. Realizing the camera was out of ...



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