Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
by octopus                

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0

Here is a page where you can get overlays to add the type of light effects you are looking for: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LanternLaneGifts There are a few different ones to choose from, but this one looks close to what you are going for: https://www.etsy.com/listing/210317470 Hope this helps! -Tim


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I found out I had narrow options bar selected in the Photoshop preferences. A few of the options then have graphical representations instead of as presented in the normal options bar.


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Are you sure you've got the Clone Stamp tool selected? The below screenshot is from Photoshop CC 2015 I've circled the selected tool, and the 'Aligned' button is there. The keyboard shortcut to get to the clone stamp in Photoshop is 'S'. You can press that to get to the clone stamp tool. Make sure that it's just the Clone stamp and not the Pattern stamp ...


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I think your easiest method would be to create a new blank layer and do the following: 1. Place the photo of the mallet you want into this layer. (File>Place>file) 2. Use the quick selection or lasso to select the mallet in the photo. 3. Click and drag it into the layer you want it in. 4. use blending tool to makes edges look more realistic. Their is a ...


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The two things you need to do are remove the original tower, and then after adding the mallet, making it look like part of the scene - matching color, lighting and shadow. To remove the tower, you could first try selecting it, then use Edit > Fill > Content Aware to let photoshop replace the tower with matching surroundings. Then follow up with the clone ...


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For Linux-Users Photo Grid Print might be worth a shot. On Win/Linux/OSX Gimp in conjuction with the Images Grid LayOut Plugin seems promising.


-1

Height (px) / Height (inches) = PPI to use.. When working with a design for print but you want to proof it on the web then it is best to start with a 300ppi and convert to cmyk before exporting the final deliverable.


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Turn all the quadrants of photos into a cube (6 faces) Ok That specific thing is a cubical projection. It is very common on 3D rendering and virtual tours. Here is a little explanation on the diferent projection types: http://www.otake.com.mx/Apuntes/Imagen/EnviromentMaps/ You in theory can make a direct cubical projection but the distorsions are ...


1

The only way to get the cube faces is to cover the cube by shooting a spherical 360ºx180º pano, first. This is non-trivial. See: How are virtual tour photos taken? There are cameras that can create this type of image in a single shot (e.g., Ricoh Theta), but the image quality and resolution of these types of cameras tends to be very low and you have no ...


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So essentially, the question is: how do I create a photo like this where the end result would be a folded cube that all its faces interconnect forming a printed cube with a person inside it. You're basically creating a spherical image -- one that spans 360° horizontally and vertically. You obviously can't take such an image with a normal camera, so the ...


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I use Silver Effex. It may not have as many color sliders as LR, but the final effect looks usually less synthetic than my B&W attempts in LR or PS. I think it is a free download now.


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You did not define the target physical dimensions of the printout and the layout of the images. Let's say you want 7 rows, each row contains 9 images. This defines a 675 x 525 pixel combined image. If you want to print with 300 dpi, the print area is: (675/300) x (525/300) inches = 2.25 x 1.75 inches ( = 5.7 x 4.45 cm) If you want to print with 150 dpi, ...


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The instructions look to some part quite specific for the publication. Do they just want the complete set of pictures in a PDF, or is there more layout involved? Also, the instructions are not complete, as they should at least specify the color profile to be used, or they should refer to color settings. At the very, very least, they should say whether to ...


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You can use Mac OS X's built-in Preview application to combine PDFs into a single PDF file. Also built-in to Mac OS X is the ability to export any file as PDF (either in the File > Export As... menu if available, or in the Print to PDF exporter in the Print dialog). For each of the 10 photos that you want to submit, in Lightroom, Print them. The system's ...


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While there is a colour profile selection in ACR which mimics the manufacturers profile no settings will be picked up from RAW file and be reapplied to make the photo in editor look similar to JPEG of camera. It happens so because manufacturer settings are often too special and follow no standard. While being technically possible it is rarely required by ...


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I would suggest you to use Lightroom as the master software to deal with your images. Why because LR is suitable for organizing the images. You can capture directly from camera and create libraries. Automatic saving and back up is the main advantage of Light room. Basic enhancement like white balance,contrast,saturation,lens correction,Noise reduction ...


2

I use a global to local method for editing. Everything goes through Lightroom to tag, keyword, organize and make global corrections and adjustments. I then take images in Photoshop for only the one's that need a greater amount of attention like skin re-touching, manipulation, or removal. If they need one step further I bring them into PS plugins. I'd say of ...


4

First, understand there is no "normal" post processing. You can spend hours on one image and use a dozen tools to achieve what you desire. Or you could convert from RAW to JPEG and call it a day. If you are already achieving what you desire by simply using Lightroom, that is great. Many of the recent features added to Lightroom have been added to support ...


1

I have occasionally understood the problem which you get. You have a slight variance of material at edges of photos and Photoshop is making hard transitions between exposures what results in posterisation. There is a way of overcoming it but it seems to be non-automatable to me. auto-merge without blending images together for each layer 2.1 select the ...


0

If you plan to automate processes in Photoshop often I would suggest looking into writing custom scripts for photoshop [http://www.adobe.com/devnet/photoshop/scripting.html]. I also suggest posting this question in Stack Overflow for programming questions. In addition, if you only need this one task done you could probably go to a freelancing site and get ...


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I have just bought a Canon iP7250 and have set it up to print what I see on my screen using; In the Quick Setup window uncheck Borderless Printing Go to the Main Window and Color/Intensity check Manual and click Set At the bottom of that window check 'Print a pattern for color adjustment' From the drop down choose C M Y and the paper size etc. Print your ...


1

Open the image in to Photoshop Create adjustment layer for hue and saturation Fade/increase the saturation Paint with black on the layer mask to hide/reveal the color Create another adjustment layer if you required more modifications


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That appears to be a Photoshop glitch, based on your screenshot. You are painting on the mask, or at least you should be, since you have the layer mask selected. Photoshop, though, is painting directly on the image rather than on the mask. (However, it may have been the case that you painted directly on the image before selecting the layer mask and taking ...


1

I rarely use the dropper anymore, because it doesn't usually give me the results I want (accurate reproduction of all colors in the photo, even when shot under less than ideal lighting). The same goes for Auto white balance as the default WB when opening a raw file. If you're not shooting raw files, then you've got to get the WB very close when shooting or ...


1

If you have 200 images, you don't need 200 different white balance setting unless the temperature of the lighting also changed 200 times. Since you shot RAW (you did right?) the WB setting you initially chose matters very little (although as proven on this site, it matters a bit). Just select the images that were shot in the same lighting, perhaps 40 images, ...


1

It is handy to do the following: open in program create new layer set the blending mode of new layer to "saturation" paint the new layer with black or white (or any other colour with zero saturation) with varying brush opacity to make colour look pale use eraser to cancel effect completely or partially use layer opacity to control the overall effect



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