by Rodrigo

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Here's a solution using python and opencv: This will crop all the faces it finds in the jpeg photos in whatever folder you run it in, with the padding specified by the left, right, top, bottom variables: import cv2 import sys import glob cascPath = "haarcascade_frontalface_default.xml" # Create the haar cascade faceCascade = ...


It shouldn't make any difference, they are both tools created by Adobe with the same processing engine behind them. As long as the versions of camera raw are in sync, its the same thing. Use whichever one suits your workflow the best. If you spend most of your time working a single image at a time and in PS, then stick with that. If you edit thousands of ...


After making your first picture black&white (1 bit per pixel, or 8 bpp grays...) promote it back to RGB (24 bpp) or whatever mode is the inserted picture. This way the inserted picture won't be be turned to B&W.


Normally you would include a an object known to be white in each frame. There are special things for this, most commonly White-Balance Cards Then, you use the software to pick the WB from that point. Repeat for each image and the colors will now be the same. For levels, I suspect you mean that you got a different exposure. To fix that, you must shoot all ...


If you're on Windows, hold left Alt key and click between layers - the top one will "clip" - just try, and you'll figure it out ;)


Duplicate the layer and invert one copy. With the curves tool flatten the bottom half of the brightness range. Using the levels tool, on both layers, set the input levels to 127, 1.00, 255 and the output levels to 0,127 finally set the blending modes of one layer to "Linear Dodge (Add)" and set the other one to "Subtract". What we have done is effectively ...


Two steps in Photoshop: Use the Eyedropper (I) to select the lightest background color that is not lighter than any part of the diffraction pattern you want to preserve. Use the Paint Bucket (G) with mode "Lighter Color" and click on the image. This will replace the dark lines and shadows with the color you selected in step 1. Here is an example:


I don't think your camera settings can do much about it. Changing the way to take this photograph will influence both the foggy area, but also the much clearer area you see closer to you. Make sure not to zoom as posted by Itai is good advice, every meter between you and the subject contains fog, zooming will not fix that. In Lightroom I use a Graduated ...

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