Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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Here's some of what I do: Throw out the worst first. Blurry, blown out, excessively dark/noisy. Back-of-somene's-head is usually included here too. Repeat the above rule a few times, raising the bar for "worst" so that it's relative to the new set. Try to eliminate duplicates. This is an especially big deal when shooting in burst mode. Take X pictures that ...


I don't know if this is a great system, but here's what I do: After the shoot/session is done I immediately sort through every frame I took looking for the 'keepers.' I do it this way because for me it is easier to choose to keep the great shots than it is to delete the borderline shots... That may just be me. :-) Next I sort through every frame I didn't ...


I use digikam which is developed for KDE and has ports to Windows and Mac OS X. It's one of the more powerful packages I've tried, with good folder and tag management workflows, though it's not always the most intuitive. It has lots of plugins for different websites, so you upload your photos to sites like facebook and flick with a single menu option. It ...


First of all my workflow is based on Lightroom, but I know other software allows you to work like this. I never delete anything on camera. Import everything into Lightroom, I prefer not to skip any images at the import stage, this also means everything gets copied to my archive. First pass, in loupe view, image at full screen, I use the flagging system to ...


Wow, that's a long list. I think we can all be pretty safe in saying that there sure isn't anything like that now. One of the most interesting project that shares a lot of your goals is F-Spot -- you might want to look at getting involved there. It's also worth noting that photo management features are on the "long-term roadmap" for the excellent raw ...


Not sure that a picture with incorrect histogram, excessively dark/noisy or blurred should be removed immediately. Sometimes I see that even defective picture looks good after time. For example (as for me): So I found the best method to select the best pictures: I just show the pictures to my wife.


Have you taken a look at Darktable ? From what I can see, it seems like an open-source clone of Lightroom. Unfortunatly for me, it's Linux only. But if it's your kind of OS, well, lucky you !


Delete the bad ones vs. Keep the good ones. Until some months ago I have always taken the usual approaches: Mark the ones which are not really good, delete them, and repeat this step multiple times. I found this was very time-consuming and at the end I still had a lot more pictures than I wanted to have. My new way is the opposite: Mark the images you want ...


Keep everything in one library. Lightroom 3 has overcome some of the past performance issues with large catalogs, so the benefits of having a good search ability dictate a single library. I use a lot of Smart Collections that are based on metadata and workflow steps. I also create standard collections for each client job that I shoot. Caption and keyword ...


Delete is my friend and I use it frequently: Delete immediately in-camera if I know I missed a shot. Things like people entering the shot at the wrong moment, forgot the camera was in MF, etc. Delete anything that is not technically perfect: sharp, focused, well exposed, well framed, correct WB, level, etc as a first pass on the computer, using PMVIew Pro ...


The people who make TinEye have a product called PixMatch which can search individual collections. It's not implemented as a desktop application, though — it's a server-based API. And it appears to be priced for serious enterprise use, not for individuals. So that's there, but not really an answer. But a competing company does have something for the desktop ...


I have had some success posting pictures on Flickr asking for help identifying what it is, tagging with anything relevant possible.


Try Google Goggles if your phone can do it. You take a picture and Google looks up what it is. You mileage may vary but it works for reasonably well known location even with not so direct framing.


It sounds like you're fighting Lightroom's natural workflow a bit. Here's my suggestion, which is pretty close to a "standard" workflow for Lightroom: Import your RAW files. As part of the import, you've got the option to move the files to another location -- that would be your external drive. Following the import, then, Lightroom knows about your ...


It's an interesting question. It's certainly possible for software to detect the parts of an image that is in focus, as it's the basis for focus-stacking software like Helicon Focus. Focus stacking is a technique used by macro photographers. The depth of field in many macro shots is very shallow, so to extend this it's possible to take a set of photos of ...


If you've ever stood over a light table, not a light box, but a table that's 4'x4', covered with 35mm and medium format transparencies, you'd notice that some images jump out at you. Even with hundreds of shots in front of you, some grab your attention and others are invisible, even though, by themselves, they'd be great photos. That's why LightRoom, ...


If you are looking for something closer in spirit to Aperture or Lightroom, consider Darktable. Open source, all that. Its not as polished as Aperture or Lightroom, but it works, and is free. It has an active development group, and it gets better all the time.


Move the files from within Lightroom. It supports this operations and will update its database automatically to reflect the change. You can also move the files outside of Lightroom and when you start Lightroom again there will be an icon next to each missing file in the Grid View. Clicking there will let you specify the directory where the file was moved. ...


A number of programs can find duplicates based on image contents. Some asset management apps will do it and there are also dedicated programs. If you Google 'detect duplicate images' you'll see quite a few options. See which ones are available for your platform. Another solution is to simply import the files with the 'ignore duplicate option'. Picasa, which ...


Simply do a wildcarded search for JPEGs (*.jpg), narrowed down by date; all OSs have this functionality. You might have to do a bit of manual looking through, but this may jog your memory and help you narrow down the date range anyway.


You could try using TinEye Reverse Image Search to see if there are some similar pictures, perhaps those have some description nearby.


Yes, it's safe to say there is no such thing (Update: look at that, there might be, but with the level of performance you are asking?). Even Gimp is not remotely close to Photoshop for advanced users, and the list of features you describe would put such an app in the "advanced" category. This is not true for all apps, Firefox was born after Internet Explorer ...


If you're not averse to a commercial product, you might want to have a look at Bibble Pro. I used it very regularly when Linux was my primary OS and I found it to be the best digital asset management package available for that platform. It supports cataloguing, non-destructive adjustments, layers and there is a long list of plug-ins that do some very cool ...


I find that a combination of different software works best. I use: Geeqie for browsing thumbnails and previewing files. It has insanely rapid fast previewing of image files, including RAW, to quickly skip through see which ones are in focus/have other issues and delete them. It's also great at previewing all types of image files. Rawtherapee for all RAW ...


Take Fewer Photos Slow down. Be more deliberate. Consider the "why" of each image before you capture it. Of course, you could go back to your smaller camera!? ;)


Since some people in the question comments repeatedly told me it was rather trivial, I actually did it: An application that sorts the images in the current directory by leaving the actual head-to-head comparison to the user.1 Written in C# for .NET 2. Works on Mono (tested on Linux so far), too. Requires dcraw on the PATH (compiled executable for Windows or ...


Google Picasa is available for Linux download page. I've had limited success in getting digikam working on Ubuntu.


Another point is that Lightroom doesn't change the RAW file in any way, so there is no need to save the RAW file. Another thing to consider is that you don't need to export a JPEG unless and until you actually need the JPEG. Lightroom saves edits as essentially a linear list of commands that are executed when you 'export'. So, there is really no need to ...


It took me a while to get organized and after having an idea I found this article very useful. It is written by one of the engineers working on Lightroom. There are no one solution fits all but what I ended with is: One catalog for Everything. All imports are done in-place, without copying or moving any of my files. The files themselves are organized in a ...

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