Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
by octopus                

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0

There is a key factor you have to take in consideration; here in photography business time equals to money, spending hours after hours on editing which adds a value of only few bucks than you have to think other way. Smart thinking is hire professionals for every segment of your business if you want to take your business to next level. For my photography ...


0

I think your easiest method would be to create a new blank layer and do the following: 1. Place the photo of the mallet you want into this layer. (File>Place>file) 2. Use the quick selection or lasso to select the mallet in the photo. 3. Click and drag it into the layer you want it in. 4. use blending tool to makes edges look more realistic. Their is a ...


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The two things you need to do are remove the original tower, and then after adding the mallet, making it look like part of the scene - matching color, lighting and shadow. To remove the tower, you could first try selecting it, then use Edit > Fill > Content Aware to let photoshop replace the tower with matching surroundings. Then follow up with the clone ...


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For Linux-Users Photo Grid Print might be worth a shot. On Win/Linux/OSX Gimp in conjuction with the Images Grid LayOut Plugin seems promising.


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Turn all the quadrants of photos into a cube (6 faces) Ok That specific thing is a cubical projection. It is very common on 3D rendering and virtual tours. Here is a little explanation on the diferent projection types: http://www.otake.com.mx/Apuntes/Imagen/EnviromentMaps/ You in theory can make a direct cubical projection but the distorsions are ...


1

The only way to get the cube faces is to cover the cube by shooting a spherical 360ºx180º pano, first. This is non-trivial. See: How are virtual tour photos taken? There are cameras that can create this type of image in a single shot (e.g., Ricoh Theta), but the image quality and resolution of these types of cameras tends to be very low and you have no ...


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So essentially, the question is: how do I create a photo like this where the end result would be a folded cube that all its faces interconnect forming a printed cube with a person inside it. You're basically creating a spherical image -- one that spans 360° horizontally and vertically. You obviously can't take such an image with a normal camera, so the ...


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Disclaimer: I have not used PhotoScan before, I have no experience with the software According to this thread at AgiSoft's forums, you just have to tell PhotoScan what camera/lens you are using, under Tools > Camera Calibration. The rest of the discussion thread has some links to people's results of mapping GoPro images to buildings and sculptures, so it ...


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I would suggest you to use Lightroom as the master software to deal with your images. Why because LR is suitable for organizing the images. You can capture directly from camera and create libraries. Automatic saving and back up is the main advantage of Light room. Basic enhancement like white balance,contrast,saturation,lens correction,Noise reduction ...


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I use a global to local method for editing. Everything goes through Lightroom to tag, keyword, organize and make global corrections and adjustments. I then take images in Photoshop for only the one's that need a greater amount of attention like skin re-touching, manipulation, or removal. If they need one step further I bring them into PS plugins. I'd say of ...


4

First, understand there is no "normal" post processing. You can spend hours on one image and use a dozen tools to achieve what you desire. Or you could convert from RAW to JPEG and call it a day. If you are already achieving what you desire by simply using Lightroom, that is great. Many of the recent features added to Lightroom have been added to support ...


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I personally do not think that window looks bad at all. It helps by not distracting, specially becouse you centered the window. If you can see what is outside that wolud be distracting. But lets go on. If you shooted in RAW, try to rescue some information on the highlights moving the curves on that zone. For the hand, crop it. This will make the ...


4

There are a few different issues that you are trying to correct here so let's go through them from easiest to hardest to fix. Some of these fixes are assuming that you are using the most up to date version of Photoshop. The blown highlight in the window most likely cannot be fixed. The in camera image did not capture any information other than pure white ...


-1

You cannot make window darker without making the image unnatural and you cannot restore the details visible through the window because the nature of digital imaging prohibits you to do so - everything bright enough does not have any information at all, it is just "too bright". I find that photo is exposed well and you do not need to manipulate brightness. ...


1

That appears to be a Photoshop glitch, based on your screenshot. You are painting on the mask, or at least you should be, since you have the layer mask selected. Photoshop, though, is painting directly on the image rather than on the mask. (However, it may have been the case that you painted directly on the image before selecting the layer mask and taking ...


1

I rarely use the dropper anymore, because it doesn't usually give me the results I want (accurate reproduction of all colors in the photo, even when shot under less than ideal lighting). The same goes for Auto white balance as the default WB when opening a raw file. If you're not shooting raw files, then you've got to get the WB very close when shooting or ...


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If you have 200 images, you don't need 200 different white balance setting unless the temperature of the lighting also changed 200 times. Since you shot RAW (you did right?) the WB setting you initially chose matters very little (although as proven on this site, it matters a bit). Just select the images that were shot in the same lighting, perhaps 40 images, ...


4

You don't need a dimmer bulb, you just need to disperse it properly so that it is more evenly distributed throughout the room. Rather than placing the bulb where it is shining directly on your monitor, place it in a fixture and bounce it off the neutrally colored walls and/or ceiling so the light is fairly uniform throughout the room. The standard (ISO norm ...


2

First of all the walls. Paint the walls in white. You can use a light neutral gray, but it could be not neutral, cool or warm, so you do not want that. Use the same temperature as your base monitor's one. Normally you will go for 6500K. You can use flourescent or led bulbs marked as 6500K. Or you can buy specialized lights like ...


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This picture is a composition of slices of many photos taken from different heights, likely from a drone. The key to understanding it is to examine the camera's perspective or point of view from different horizontal slices of the composited image. For approximately the bottom quarter of the image, the camera is below the roof lines of the buildings at the ...


2

While there are probably different approaches to this, in general, you probably want to avoid using a single, bright source. I prefer to have a couple of low power (10-20W) halogen sources in enclosures that completely block horizontal radiation of light, allowing it to flood onto the ceiling (and possibly also the floor). These don't have to be fancy ...


-1

You can achieve your solution by just following the 4 basic steps, Find something you want to take a picture of make sure your hands are steady and then take the picture. Now you must take the picture off of the camera and put it on a computer. Hopefully you know how to do this, or else there is not much that I will be able to do for you. This step is ...


3

Very simply, a licence is the legal way for you to give permission for something to happen. Offering a licence carries some weight in that if they break the terms of your licence then you would be within your rights to bring legal action(s) and restrict the use of your work. If the intent is to offer a commercial licence at an additional charge then it ...


0

You should check out some tutorials on "compositing". CreativeLive has some great classes if you can catch the right timing or if you're willing to buy a course. The principal is to use a tripod and take the same photo several times. One "plate" (that you'll use as a background), then one with your subject (you), and a few others that you can mask in or ...


1

Not ideal, but even rather rough manual editing (not as rough as here) achieves much of what you want. If you care about the subject and not the background then you can take some liberties along the way as long as the end result is visually plausible. eh here if it does not matter if there are or were chairs at left and nobody knows and/or cares then let ...


2

The first step is to choose your location carefully — find somewhere where there aren’t many people gormless wandering around. If there’s a big attraction and everyone’s standing and taking photos, you’ll struggle to get a clear view without people in the way, so find a place where there’s a lot of movement. I chose the location in the photo above because it ...


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In situations like these you could try using a tool like Content-aware fill, or resynthesizer. Also, you can try to rectify the situation when shooting. Take a timelapse and combine the people-free portions of the photos into one.



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