Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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Darktable is free (but only available for Linux). It is a decent catalog and a good non-destructive editor. Since DT develops rather quickly, I find myself resorting less and less to Digikam for cataloging.


Digikam. It is free software and is very feature complete.


Perceived handsomeness is tightly tied to proportions, so I doubt you could alter one while keeping the other intact. A simple horizontal flip will probably still keep you too recognizable, and exchanging chin with top of head might distort more than you'd like. Replacing one side of face with flipped version of other side seems to match the criteria. For ...


To get sharper images Use an appropriate shutter speed, that prevents camera shake and/or subject movement from blurring the image. Use a flash to freeze any motion of the subject. close the aperture, (that means: use a bigger number, something like f8 will do) the effect is minor, it will not turn a blurry shot into an "oh my gosh this is amazingly ...


Though the title says Edit photos with an external program the description says: select a photo One at a time works but not multiple.


I would have taken many pictures on a tripod, aligned them (e.g. using the align_image_stack program) and then taken the average of the pictures. This can yield better results than using an ND filter as aligning the images will correct for slight movements of the camera orientation, e.g. due to wind.


tillinberlin comented this is solarization and he is basicly right in some degree, but if you use it on a positive image you get the wrong result: So, you can use a negative image or use the curves the inverse way solarization works. You can see the objetive of this step in the hair. After this you could use a gradient map. That would be a starting ...


My guess is that this was originally a scanned colour negative. I can achieve a very similar colour shift and 'surreal' contrast by scanning any colour neg and simply not applying colour correction as you would normally do. The rest of the effect appears (backlighting, harsh contrast) to be 'in camera', so to speak.


AFAIK this effect is called Solarisation (or solarization) and it's a phenomenon known already in analogue photography where parts of the image are wholly or partially reversed in tone. You could probably do some further search on the original phenomenon and try to reverse-engeneer it with the help of layers and transparency and the like.. There is also ...


My aproach would be playing with: 1) Lower the saturation. 2) The curves or levels (to overexpose). If you use the levels use the gamma slider (midtones). 3) A gradient map I see some aditional steps there like masking the bride, working some tones there, and aplying the blue to the rest of the ...


One way to get a blue background is to put an orange coloured gel on your lights. You also want to make sure your subject is mainly lit by the flash, and the background is lit by ambient light. With that set-up the only post-processing you need to do to get the blue effect is adjusting the white balance for that gel, so make sure you're shooting in RAW. The ...

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