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Spin Blur In Photoshop (Photoshop CC 2014) it can be found in: Filter > Blur Gallery > Spin Blur You can find more info in Adobe Photoshop documentation.


It's just the Radial Blur filter. However, if the idea is to replicate a slow shutter speed blurring the motion of the hands, it's poorly executed, because the entire clock face is blurred. Only the hands move, so only the hands should be blurred.


I use Lightroom to "develop" the RAW files, and put up with the way to point it at the current directory. The .xmp files can be witten to the same dir as the raw. I think DxO has a program that can do that, too, on sale at the moment. I'm looking at it as a suppliment but I think it can do all the exposure settings too.


Get DXO Optics Pro and dump Lightroom, that's the best advice you can get, trust me. I felt the same way. Catalogue sucks big time, in DXO I have already my work done while in LR it's just Importing photos... And the details and noise reduction are clearly superior in DXO. Just be sure to get DXO v9 and above, it really shines from 9.5 IMHO.


If you get an external hard drive (or two, remember that having only one backup is the same as having none), you can also get apropiated software and not only save at all those points, but you can also save snapshots of your pictures (no pun intended). For example, this Seagate solution allows you to save the file everytime the file is changed.


I use a removable hard drive that I only plug in to the computer and power source when I am using it. I keep only the final edited files for client photos,(Portraits) and for nature and landscape I keep unedited raw files and final edited jpeg files, so that if I chose to change things or go a different root in style I can do it at that time. I do not save ...


I keep my raw files and my project files (which allow for recreation of final outputs) on a large RAID 5 array for local redundancy and my finished output files on a web server for off-site backup and sharing. It leaves me a slight chance of losing my raws in a fire or such, but I'll still have the final outputs stored safely offsite. For me, this was an ...


A hard disk backup should really be disconnected from your power and network/USB when not in use if there's even the tiniest chance of lightning strikes. There are also plenty of surges that will overwhelm many surge protectors giving you another reason why you should disconnect. On the other hand you then have to remember to plug in the drive, back up and ...


Things that are deliberately not covered in this answer: How to do a back up and discussion of proper disaster recovery procedures such as physical security and keeping multiple copies in multiple locations. Archival as it is the subject of the preservation of tools and platforms not specific files or formats. Optical media of any type (Bluray, DVD or ...


My suggestions are to keep: RAW images, untouched. Its always wise to have the original so you can start working again on it. RAW adjustments. For example Lightroom keep them in xmp files so you will not loose your work on the image. And eventually high quality end product, but only in case you do some destructive changes, compared to the RAW I ...


I would suggest backing up three things: The original RAW files. Your RAW software's database of adjustments — usually, this is kept as lossless storage of what changes you made. High-quality (100%-quality JPEG or TIFF, depending on subject matter / detail) of developed images you've put a lot of work into. #1 keeps the originals. #2 lets you recreate ...


Can anyone suggest how to literally make an image "retina display"? I think it doesn't depends on the camera. Does their is any software for it? The term 'Retina Display' is usually a reference to the high resolution screens on some apple products. I assume you're referring to serving higher resolution versions of images to such screens due to their ...


In addition to the factors mentioned by AJ Henderson, I think another important aspect here is previsualization. A highly skilled photographer already has a very good idea of what she/he wants the final picture to look like before actually taking it. In such a case the photographer might then work "backwards" from the desired output (be it via the digital ...


While Photoshop is a very powerful tool, it is by no means the only tool involved in producing a high quality photo, nor the most important one. Photography is a crap in/crap out type of art form. You can't achieve a good end result by taking crap in to Photoshop and somehow expecting it to magically allow you to fix what is inherently broken. Photography ...


I am the one who asked the quetion originally. Now the problem is solved. I don't know how. A few days ago, I used my new pen tablet, instead of mouse, from 'another' usb port of my laptop and the preview came back. I wrote the answer because it may help someo


To find out what tone mappings have been applied, both in camera and in post processing when there is no data about that in the exif file, one can consider a few pictures with a shallow depth of field, such as this one. Unfortunately, downloading has been disabled, but nothing stops you from taking a screenshot and using that to analyze the picture. What you ...


@Garfrey - First, thank you for pointing out this excellent photographer. In regard to her style and secret, I believe Ms. Gadd is able to envision the final image before she shoots it. For example, in her excellently composed photo, 'Lost in Her Reverie', Ms. Gadd places herself exactly between the camera and the waterfall. She selected to wear dark ...


To figure this out you start down the path into style and composition, not just making sure a photo a technically competent. Instead of worrying about the geeky bits of photography, you start putting your energy into the artistic and esthetic aspects. A strong voice about this is David duChemin, who publishes through Craft and Vision ...

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