Serene Life

by garik

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47

If the dimensions of the image are multiples of 8 (or 16 if chroma subsampling is used) then the rotations are lossless. Otherwise it is not possible to rotate the image without recomputing the blocks i.e. recompressing the image, which is lossy. The reason for this is that jpeg images are broken up into a series of 8x8 or 16x16 blocks which are compressed ...


46

Adjustment layers. These apply the effect of a filter to the layers below, rather than being a layer with a filter applied. Gimp doesn't have this. One can live without, but they are nice. In some cases, layer blending modes can be used to achieve a similar effect, but they don't work the same way. This makes it much more tedious to experiment with ...


38

Hugin (based on Panorama Tools) is a good open-source option, and is multi-platform.


36

Editing is definitely not unethical (making a deceptive photo can be unethical, but it is also easy to deceive in-camera, it's the deceiving part that makes it unethical not the editing) There are two very different types of photography - there are photos that are intended to show what something really look like (photojournalism, pictures for eBay listings, ...


29

You are right, that is a personal question and it will vary tremendously, some situations like fast-moving actions will often get a higher hit-to-miss ratio, so I do not think you can get a useful numeric answer. My motto for this is 'Delete is my friend' :) I first delete anything that is not technically perfect (with extremely few exceptions, less than ...


28

I would like to add my technique! Scan the photo once as usual. Rotate the photo 180% on the scanner and scan again. In Photoshop, un-rotate the second scan. Import it as a layer on top of the first scan. Auto-Align Layers using Photoshop command. Assign second scan 50% opacity to blend images together. This technique comes from observing that the ...


26

There is a good book which indeed does talk about photographing a canvas. It is the first book I would recommend someone who wants to learn about lighting. It is called Light: Science and Magic. (At this point: Anyone wants to have the previous edition of it? I think I'll get the new one. ;) ) The thing about the canvas is (I guess you have noticed so far ...


25

There are a few, but two of the best are: The Gnu Image Manipulation Program (quite powerful) Paint.NET (not as powerful as the GIMP, but very good)


23

Like John, I can't really speak for pros either. I think it really depends on the person, as some people like to do post-processing, and others are real sticklers about doing everything in camera, with minimal (if any) post processing. A couple landscape photographers I like span the range. Joseph Holmes is a great photographer who doesn't seem to do much ...


23

If you don't have it, I'd recommend Adobe Lightroom and then use Gimp for the occasional 'advanced' edit. Most of the reasons are already outlined in this question. Photoshop is nice, but its not meant to deal with the huge number of photographs you can do from a real shoot. Its a workflow thing. I find 90%+ of the basic tweaks I need can be done in ...


22

Increasing the Brightness tries to preserve the highlights while increasing Exposure will scale everything. This image demonstrates it nicely: source: http://lightroomkillertips.com/2010/lightroom-exposure-vs-brightness/


22

The camera manufacturer can sometimes offer an excellent RAW->JPG convertor. One reason to use the manufacturer's software is that no one else knows better how to interpret the RAW information. All the light and lens-specific data especially can be quite tricky to fully interpret and post-process by other than the manufacturer of the camera. In the ...


21

For photos? Not too much, actually. GIMP lacks automatic HDR processing. It doesn't have adjustment layers - although you don't need those too much for photos. Photoshop's Hue\Saturation dialog is superior. Photoshop CS5 has content-aware fill, which GIMP lacks, but there's a GIMP plugin called Resynth that does about the same ...


21

Exposure has a stronger effect on the highlights. Brightness has a stronger effect on the midtones. To quote from the Lightroom user manual: Exposure Sets the overall image brightness, with a greater effect in the high values. ... Brightness Adjusts image brightness, mainly affecting midtones. ... Set the overall tonal scale by setting ...


21

The 27" LED mac displays are "full gamut" displays, ones that cover around 98% of the Adobe RGB gamut. These are full 8 bit/channel (24bit) screens and offer a full 178° viewing angle. They are much higher quality displays than your average LCD screen, and specifically designed to output high quality, rich, saturated graphics. Additionally, Safari, which I ...


20

Nice question. This is an issue we all face. My answer has two parts: 1) keep as much as possible 2) religiously tag your photos in an organized way. 1) Why keep as much as possible? Your perspective changes with time and 20 to 30 years later your photos acquire a historical value that transcends their artistic value. I discovered this when I started ...


20

One result of using a polarizer is the deeper blue skies; that effect isn't hard to replicate using software such as Photoshop, Lightroom, Picasa, or the GIMP. Another important reason a polarizer might be used is to reduce glare and reflections. The best example of this is if one is photographing a puddle or pond; without a polarizer the surface will ...


17

Considered by whom? This is both an issue that has intrigued and bothered people since the dawn of photography and a still-emerging topic that is far from settled. So, in a larger sense, there's really no meaningful answer, just a series of opinions. But, in a specific sense, there certainly can be an answer. The definition you've taken above has a very ...


17

Since the noise is periodic, your best option is to Fourier-transform the image and filter out the specific spatial frequencies of the noise. This way you will preserve a lot more detail than with any gaussian-based filtering. I don't know whether Photoshop can do that, but here is an example using ImageMagick.


16

Curves is a powerful and very flexible tool, which allows to control brightness, contrast and color balance very preciesly. The way I approach the curves tool, either in Gimp or in any other editor is two-fold: (1) The curve defines how to change the intensity. Its left side is for the darkest parts of the image, its right side is for the brightest part of ...


16

Wow, that's a long list. I think we can all be pretty safe in saying that there sure isn't anything like that now. One of the most interesting project that shares a lot of your goals is F-Spot -- you might want to look at getting involved there. It's also worth noting that photo management features are on the "long-term roadmap" for the excellent raw ...


16

If you have to ask, then Photoshop is NOT worth the money. Only if you need Photoshop, will it ever be worth the money. It is expensive because people who use it find that it pays them back easily. If you do not know what you need, then you do not need Photoshop. Photoshop is a tool that can help you solve problems and create creative solutions in your ...


16

Have you tried the High Pass Filter in Photoshop? Make a selection around the area of the image you need better focus on, press ctrl-J to jump this to a new layer. Then, in the Filter menu, scroll down to Other, and choose High Pass. Depending on how large your photo is, you might want to choose from 1-6 pixels. You will probably have to ...


15

I use AutoPano Pro (commercial, 99 € -- Mac, Windows, Linux) with great results. It merges photos together automatically and is able to blend together photos with several different focal-lengths and even exposures. I now usually just hand-hold a series of shots for a pano rather than bothering to set up a tripod. As long as I am zoomed out enough to crop off ...


15

I would read this article for information on stacking and how to properly stack photos: http://www.naturescapes.net/docs/index.php/category-technical/145-long-exposure-astrophotography. The relevant information is farther down in the article. Looking at your shot, it appears that there is a fair amount blur, I'm guessing due to incorrect auto-tracking? ...


15

Have you taken a look at Darktable ? From what I can see, it seems like an open-source clone of Lightroom. Unfortunatly for me, it's Linux only. But if it's your kind of OS, well, lucky you !


15

There's probably several different ways to skin this cat (there always are in Photoshop), and it's be easier to give specific input if there was a picture to look at, but in general I'd probably tackle the problem with something like this: Create a Hue/Saturation Adjustment layer Modify the layer mask such that only the area with bleed problems is selected ...



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