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by garik

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55

No, you don't. In some circles of photography, the 50mm has reached almost cult religion status. It seems to solve everything from focus problems to technique stagnation to global warming. Ask a question about photography, and chances are, someone will recommend a 50mm lens as the solution ("I want to take images of the space station crossing the sun" "The ...


34

As these camera makers own a smaller market share than Canon or Nikon, they have often tried more radical and innovative approaches than the big two. You can see both Canon and Nikon as more traditional makers with very consistent and proven features in their cameras. When Sony bought Konica-Minolta's camera division, they inherited the only body-based ...


26

There's so many nice Pentax primes — why pick just one when you can collect a whole set? That's why we have Lens Buying Addiction, after all! In seriousness, based on what you've said, I think the smc PENTAX DA 35mm F2.8 Macro Limited may be the place you should start. But, I've used quite a few Pentax primes, so let me give you the whole tour, as it were. ...


25

Yes, all Pentax DSLRs accept all K-mount lenses. This includes autofocusing (if applicable), focus confirmation, metering, IS, etc. The oldest two series, K and M series (database), do not have aperture contacts, and thus do not work with Av and Tv mode. Instead, you'll have to use M mode, but you will get meter readings. It can also suggest a shutter ...


23

Professional cameras such as the Canon 1D Mark IV have dual memory card slots for a variety of professional use cases. I will break them down into three main groupings: Mirroring of the image across multiple cards for redundancy Automatic switching to a second card after the first one reaches capacity Ability to write different file formats to different ...


18

Possibly - but the real answer lies in whether you find yourself limited by your current lenses in available light and portrait situations. Two stops is a lot of shutter speed and DoF, but I rarely find myself shooting my Sigma 50mm wide open at 1.4. Not because its too soft (its still plenty sharp for me there), but because the depth of field is so narrow ...


15

I default to the three-star setting (out of four), but I always use RAW + JPEG so I can revisit the choice, because there are situations where yes, it makes a difference. Particularly, when there is strong contrast across color channels, like a tree with red leaves or flowers against a blue sky, JPEG compression artifacts can be surprisingly visible with the ...


12

If you already owned some Sony glass, you'd probably wanted to stay with Sony. As you don't want to stay with Sony, I assume that you don't own much of their glass yet. In this case you are still free to choose whatever brand you like. First choose the lenses you like. Think about what lenses you want to buy in two or three years. Buy a camera body and a ...


11

1) Power and features. A flash with more power will, of course, allow you to bounce to higher ceilings, go through larger diffuse objects, and do daylight fill-flash at further distances. Quick feature discussion: Tilt: Most models have this, save the lowly AF-200FG. Swivel: Most model shave this, except the AF-360FGZ for some reason. Tilt/Swivel ...


10

On switching systems: K-r and K-5 have greatly improved autofocus over the K-7 and earlier generations, both continuous and low-light. That said, 7D is class leading in continuous, and it's unlikely either will come close to the 7D's AF. Since the K-x, Pentax really stepped up their ISO performance. K-r and K-5 look to be stellar. 7D/60D is a bit better ...


10

If you're new to DSLRs, it's worth sticking with the brand your friends use; not just so you can borrow stuff, but for the free advice as well.


10

Canon E-TTL E-TTL stands for "Evaluative Through the Lens" and was introduced in 1995. A low power preflash is fired immediately before shutter opens and its reflectance is measured to determine correct flash exposure. Entire frame is analyzed by the same evaluative exposure metering system as ambient exposure, area under active AF point is given more ...


9

As stated here ( and guessed by Dreamager) it is aligned with the lens release button of older Pentax cameras. It's much easier to change the lens in the dark. ( I don't really understand the advantage of the newer orange dots. ) From K-1000 user's manual: In the dark, when red dots are difficult to see, align the white plastic bump on the lens ...


9

I don't know about this particular model, but in all my film cameras advancing the film (by pulling the film advance lever) resets the film release lock. Depress shutter with cap on, then advance again. You should see the winder turn, indicating the film is advancing. That should be enough to keep you shooting. (I'm assuming from your post, that you don't ...


8

If you have trouble with to much sun, a ND (Neutral Density) might be want you want. This gives you the option of having a higher aperture even when there is much sun. A polarization filter might also be handy. This way you could get rid of the reflections from the ocean. Also you could get that postcard feeling with a more blue sky. There are many people ...


8

A few points that haven't been mentioned about Sony's cameras: The only way to get autofocus Zeiss lenses1. While Zeiss makes lenses for Canon and Nikon mounts, they're strictly manual focus. Yes, old Minolta lenses work -- and many are almost amazingly good on digital. Just for one example, there was a recent comparative review of the old (circa 1985) ...


8

My direct experience with travel matches advice I was given years ago: expect to take the same kinds of photos, with the same type of equipment, as at home. If you have a particular lens that is rarely needed then there's no reason to expect that this will finally be the time to use it. The same goes for tripods, field notebooks, or any other new habit that ...


7

My advice: get one or more primes. Why? For $300, there are a number of very high quality prime lenses available, particularly on Pentax with its extreme backwards compatibility, and so you're likely to find a pro-quality lens that you'll keep and use for years. On the other hand, at that price point it is very difficult to find a high-quality zoom. You ...


7

I'm not really here for self-promotion, but I would like to point out that I have put a lot of work into creating a Definitive Guide to Pentax Flash Options (http://pttl.mattdm.org/) website, specifically giving a detailed comparison of features of different Pentax P-TTL-compatible flash options, both from Pentax and third-party (Metz, Sigma, Promaster, ...


7

I use an older Pentax 50mm f/1.7 on my 60D and get spectacular results. I have the exact adapter shown in your post and it works great with barely any play between the lens and body. The only problem with old glass is that it typically has poor handling of flare so be mindful of light sources and use a hood.


7

To use aperture priority on Pentax dSLR with FA lens, you have to leave the aperture ring to "A" and select the aperture on body. With aperture ring in A mode, the FA lens will behave just like a DA lens. You can use Av mode and set aperture on the body, shutter time will be calculated according to automatically measured exposure. With aperture ring set ...


7

No you don't The number one reason for a beginner to get a 50mm lens is that on Canon and Nikon (don't know about other brands) the 50mm f/1.8 is cheap (the Canon 50 1.8 is the cheapest, smallest and lightest lens they make) - so it's a cheap introduction into the world of fast primes and it's so much better than the kit lens. You already have a 40mm and a ...


7

as Itai's answer was very detailed, I will only add some details regarding to Pentax, which at least for me were important when buying my first DSLR: 1) support for AA batteries in Pentax entry level DSLR - some people love it, some hate it ... (I am from the first group :-) ) - currently you can decide as newest K-r supports both. 2) Pentax has excellent ...


7

As you can see from a side-by-side feature comparison, the K-5 has a few advantages — 14-bit processing, somewhat faster shutter, a few more modes on the dial. It has a top LCD screen, and it has a magnesium-alloy body. On the other hand, the K-30 has some improvements of its own. Whether these things are compelling to you is a personal decision, but as ...


7

This is a great camera with a lot of advantages for a beginner. It's dead simple and very reliable. It doesn't even need a battery except to meter. And the meter is great — a simple, direct needle which indicates the overall exposure of the whole frame. I find this much more enjoyable to use than the LED indicators used on newer fancier cameras. Combined ...


6

There is a great summary of K-mount features at Bojidar Dimitor's page. You should look for the "crippled" KAF2 body.


6

Well, first things first as a Pentax shooter: look on the used market. I do this all the time (I shoot the Pentax K20) and there are some real gems to be had as bargains. Craigslist is a good place to start, lots of people selling off their parents 'old' Pentax film gear, with lenses attached, for a song and those old lenses can be amongst some of the better ...


6

If you Google "K10D back focus" then you'll find quite a few hits to it. It looks to me that the camera actually focussed behind, so that would indicate that problem and with an f/2.8 aperture, you're not giving a lot of depth to help compensate. In any case, make sure your K10D is up to date on firmware and have a look at this thread on fixing the back ...


6

SEL or Select mode is a Pentax focus mode that allows you to select which point to focus on out of the available focus points. Auto mode is on the other hand going to select from the available focus points(11 in the case of the K10D) whichever it feels is the best using the TTL phase-matching system(SAFOX VIII) and the subject. A third option is available ...



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