Hot answers tagged panasonic
7
First, the only Micro Four-Thirds macro current is the Leica 45mm F/2.8.
The easiest thing to adapt to Micro Four-Third are Four-Third lenses, since they are designed to work in exactly the same way with an all-electronic interface. When you adapt other lenses, you will usually lose features like autofocus or stop-down metering. Here
are all current ...
6
As attractive as a "macro converter", or even extension tubes, might be from a cost perspective, your 14mm lens is not a very good foundation for macro photography. It is a moderately wide-angle lens (equivalent to about 28mm on a full-frame 35mm body), so if you want any real amount of subject magnification, you'll need to be working in very close—your lens ...
6
Most P&S I have used does amazing jobs with the built-in presets (Scene modes)! Though most people think the presets are targeted towards amateurs, but trust me they are not! The companies have invested heavy amount of research and money to configure these presets often using real life feedback from very experienced photographers. So I'd not ...
5
From the Exif Info,
The normal photo has exposure 1/60s, ISO 80 and f4.9 without flash, focal length 13.6mm.
The purple one has exposure 1/60s, ISO 1000 and f5.9 with flash, focal length 33mm. This picture should have been overexposed by at least 3 stops + flash if you had taken it with the same lighting as the normal picture.
Its possible that the ...
5
I have an Olympus body (E-PL1) and a Panasonic lens (100-300mm zoom), and haven't noticed any special problems. It feels kind of silly to have 'paid' for in-lens stabilization that I keep turned off, but even when I've accidentally knocked the switch into the on position, it doesn't ruin the average shot (it makes for odd effects during long exposures on a ...
5
So let me get this straight.
You have a small, light weight camera that can use a good selection of lenses, and you are thinking of changing systems. You like the camera, it weighs less with a lens on than a Nikon DSLR does without. If you are travelling, the weight is not going to dig into you back.
My questions are why change?
Have you reached the ...
5
I'm not familiar with Panasonics, but metering modes usually consist of:
Evaluative/matrix metering (it takes readings from x spots all over the frame and averages them)
Center-weighted average (like the first one, except that reading from the center influences the result more than the rest of the frame)
Spot metering (takes reading only from small area of ...
4
Regarding getting money back - call the dealer, we can't help you.
For future - buy brand batteries :) When you knowingly buy a camera that is publicly said to operate only with brand batteries and you pay a lot of money for it - why try to cheat then?
I've personally never had good experience with 3rd party batteries and have cried but paid ~$150 for the ...
4
Aha, I figured it out. The logic used by the DMC-G2 camera for the "RESET COUNTER" appears to be:
Increment the group nnn (P100, P101, etc.) by 1.
If the photo Pnnn0001.JPG does not exist, set the photo counter to this image and stop.
Otherwise, increment the group nnn by 1. (Wraparound '999' -> '100')
If we haven't tried this group # before, go to step 2.
...
4
The bokeh is influenced by the aperture you choose. It is not an effect.
The wider the aperture you choose, the less depth-of-field you get which is what makes bokeh appear. With the Olympus you have more latitude to choose less depth-of-field but you can choose an equally large depth-of-field on both camera.
The Olympus ZX-1 is really nice and produce ...
4
So, you're right: you're foiled because the Lumix FZ18 isn't an interchangeable lens camera. The adapter you link for is for Panasonic's Micro-Four thirds cameras, like the Lumix GF1, which do use interchangeable lenses. It kind of confusing for Panasonic to use the same branding for both those cameras and their attached-lens models, but there it is.
The ...
4
Almost all these systems work in a similar way, be it iDynamic (Panasonic), DRO (Sony), Adaptive D-Lighting (Nikon), HTP (Canon), etc.
What they do is adjust the exposure so that to capture more details in the highlights. This causes under-exposure in the shadow areas which the camera compensates for by boosting levels there which reveals the downside of ...
4
The Panasonic Lumix G 20mm F/1.7 ASPH is better. As its name says, it has a maximum aperture of F/1.7 compared to a maximum of F/3.5 at wide-angle for either currently available 14-42mm lenses.
This means the 20mm lets in more than 4X more light and will let you shoot with less light or with the same amount of light at a lower ISO or faster shutter-speed or ...
4
Shading Compensation is normally called Vignetting Correction. It simply corrects for a known falloff in light intensity towards the edges of the frame.
The cameras has to know the lens attached; otherwise it won't work, which is why you sometimes need a firmware upgrade when newer lenses become available.
Vignetting is one of the easiest and least ...
3
The Panasonic DMC-ZS7 / TZ10 has a sports mode. You could try that. You could also try Aperture Priority AE mode, select the largest aperture possible at the focal length you choose(F3.3 - 4.9). You could also adjust the ISO sensitivity higher, but not too high that the amount of noise or grain is too much for you. A high value would be ISO 800 or 1600, but ...
3
I wouldn't consider APS-C a "larger format" than u4/3 (somewhere on here there was an answer where someone pointed out that the difference between u4/3 and APS-C was smaller than the difference between APS-C and full-frame). If you want substantially better pictures you'd be better off moving up to full-frame -- which isn't cheap.
But since you've got a ...
3
The image quality of a 4/3 and Micro Four-Thirds camera is exactly the same since the sensors are the same size. Therefore you can expect better image quality from newer 3/4 or Micro 4/3 cameras due to technological improvements.
It is normal that there will be differences when changing models and even though what you are getting will be some kind of ...
3
No software is required.
You need a Nikon F-mount lens of your choice plus a Lens Baby Tilt Transformer. This is an adapter that takes advantage of the greater flange distance of the Nikon F-mount compared to the Micro Four-Thirds mount which adds Tilt-Shift capability in between. Very clever actually.
Specifically, you do NOT need to buy a tilt-shift lens ...
3
The AVCHD directory is for video files. I asked a similar question on another site (can't find it at the moment though). But it looks like you've gotten the gist of what they do. Wikipedia's page on AVCHD lists this structure as well:
Not sure where there is an official reference though.
3
In general, lens based optical stabilisation ought to work very well with a 150mm lens. Modern designs are capable of three stops (8x increase in exposure time) or more. As to whether it will make a large difference to what you can shoot, that depends on how much light you have. Of course image stabilisation does nothing to help you with moving subjects, so ...
2
Micro 4/3 sensors are, well, small. That means that a "true" (1:1) macro lens may be overkill; one of the less-pricey 1:2 (half-life-size) designs may be more than adequate. A 1:1 lens with a small, high-resolution sensor will get you images that would count as microphotography on a full-frame SLR if both are printed at the same size with the same resolution ...
2
I emailed Bristol Cameras asking the same question since they sell a non-brand battery:
Your question was: I thought that Panasonic "secured" their cameras so
that only panasonic batteries work.
For example, the TZ7 would only
recognise it if the firmware was
downgraded to pre-v1.2. Can you
confirm that this battery actually
works in the new ...
2
I'm glad it worked out for you. I'm not sure what exactly made it decide to continue from the number the third time — it's always creepy when software behaves non-deterministically.
I know you said you didn't want to rename your old files, but I find it really convenient to do so. There are a number of free (open source and otherwise) cross-platform ...
2
A front mounted wide converter will most likely reduce image quality by introducing new elements into the optical path, increasing the change of flare, as well as increasing the amount of refraction occurring which will result reduced corner sharpness and more distortion/aberrations (unless the adaptor is very well corrected).
A front mounted wide converter ...
2
Reduction of light by 1 or more stops, depending on the specific design.
An additional set of refracting elements in the light path, thus an additional distortion / aberration / Image Quality reduction factor.
Observable decrease in sharpness at high contrast edges within image.
In the case of add-on extenders specifically: Dust between the main lens front ...
2
I have the Panasonic f/1.7 and an Oly kit 14-42mm. The Panasonic is a terrific piece of glass. The oly is OK.
Here's the thing about low-light photography. If you're taking pictures of people, a wide aperture lens is a good thing. When you use a wide aperture, you necessarily get a shallow depth of field. So, you'll get your person's face sharp with some ...
2
Image stabilization is generally regarded as being both more useful and more effective at longer focal lengths. See what is effectively the opposite question to this at How useful is image stabilisation below 200mm, really?, noting that for the normal rule of thumb for shutter speed the crop factor applies. For Micro Four Thirds, that's 2×, so, roughly, ...
1
You shouldn't leave the battery in the camera when not using it for some time, e.g. over night. That being said, 48 hours is still bad.
However, as long as long as the battery lasts for an entire day of shooting, you can just charge the battery over night. If not, you'll have to work with two batteries,.
1
Although I love fast, small pancake primes, depending on your use, you may be better served by saving money on the lens and buying a decent tripod. (Around $150; you're wasting your money for less than that, and while it won't hurt to spend more, unless you're very serious about this you don't need to for a small light camera.)
This is because, while the ...
1
The only drawback is that they sometimes won't have the lens auto correction and calibration for the other brands. And as far as I know Olympus is the only one producing splash and dust proof lenses to go with the sealing on the E-M5.
Lenrentals.com just did a wide angle resolution test using the E-M5 with all of their wide angle Micro Four Thirds lens. ...
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