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24

I think you've answered the question yourself pretty well, with citations and everything. There's little real risk, and the flash manufacturers are erring on the side of caution in order to protect themselves from litigation. To add to the background, here's a quote from the website of a neonatal intensive care unit — if there'd be a case where it might ...


18

Position of the flash (or light) in general is critical for the final look of your shots. If you you on-axis flash directly on camera, it usually creates dark shadows just behind the people or below their chins, which rarely looks flattering. This is a photo taken with on-camera flash. From the shadow you can see that the camera was vertical, and you can ...


15

My apologies for linking to Strobist all the time, but as it happens there is a recent post just about that. He lists PocketWizard Plus II Transceiver as the best and most reliable, followed by RadioPopper JrX, AlienBees CyberSyncs, and Elinchrom Skyports. You also might want to check out RadioPopper PX, which looks like it might be able to trigger slave ...


13

Not only do you need new batteries, but what you want is low self-discharge NiMHs. Like the name says, they have a better not-in-use retention of charge, reducing frustrations like this. They generally have lower capacity than "regular" NiMHs, but unless you're planning to recharge and then use them up immediately, it's worth it. The common brand name here ...


12

Sheesh — how to find something I'm looking for: write up the question carefully on Stack Exchange, at which point the keywords to search for will be clear in my mind, and I can quickly Google up the answer myself: It's the Frio Universal Cold Shoe Adapter. It's exactly designed for what I need, and at $13 + $2 shipping it fits under my price limit, too. So ...


12

No question: adding an external flash. See previous question Prime lens or flash: which upgrade will most improve baby photos?, which covers some of this. A flash can freeze motion, and makes it easy to get enough depth of field to get the whole scene in focus. And when you can move the flash off camera, you can create nice light where it doesn't exist ...


11

So, actually, the preflash is a two-way dialog between the control flash (in this case, built in to the D7000) and the remote units. There's a reverse-engineered )and several years old, so possibly slightly out of date) explanation of the protocol by Alson van der Meulen. (The site is offline but archived.) Basically, the control flash fires a minimal ...


11

I'm not sure if there is a checklist or algorithm, but here are some givens when working with flash: Shutter speed is not the tool you use for stopping motion. Flash duration is. And, flash duration is normally so brief as to be faster than your fastest shutter speed. Longer exposures will allow ambient light to be more of a factor in your exposure. ...


11

You could use an ND filter or even a polarizing filter (which you probably already have) to give yourself another couple of stops.


11

Editing out the eyes removes a metric tonne of information that might have been helpful in answering your question — please don't do that if you're asking about studio lighting problems — but there is still something to be seen in the photos you have posted. Apart from the makeup and post-processing that have already been mentioned in the comments, it's ...


10

Are you planning to shoot indoors or outdoors? Umbrellas are difficult to use outdoors as they act like a sail and it only takes a slight breeze to send your umbrella - and flashgun crashing down. You either need a serious stand weighted down, or someone holding the umbrella. Even so I'd go with the smaller size for shooting outdoor. A larger umbrella gives ...


10

I want to know the needs/thinking in photography that leads to it It starts off with you needing more light in a given situation. Either you getting extremely grainy photos due to low light, or you are in need of a wider lens but can't afford the slower maximum aperture, or you are struggling to eliminate camera shake with slower shutter speeds. ...


9

An SB800 master and SB600 slave is one option, another is using radio triggers like PocketWizards (expensive) or PT-04s (cheap) and trigger the flashes. The former will give you ETTL capabilities, while the latter won't, unless you go for the newer PWs, the Mini and Flexes. Another way is to use the pop-up flash to trigger a flash with a built-in optical ...


9

One other thing - don't mix your batteries with different specs. In your case, mixing 2500mAh batteries with 800mAh batteries will be causing you problems.


9

Generally speaking for 'photobooth' style photography the number one priority is for a lighting setup that will work for every single person who sits in front of the camera without having to fiddle with the lighting at all for the entire time the photobooth is set up. Not having to monkey with lighting is what allows the camera operator to get as many people ...


9

Refer to page 19 of your ST-E3-RT manual. It specifies that when used with camera models released prior to 2012 (so, anything but the 1DX and 5D mark III at the time of this post) you lose high speed sync and your max sync speed is "one increment slower" than whatever it would normally be. The flash sync speed is 1 increment slower Check the flash ...


9

I got a Frio as a freebie in a photography class grab bag. Its a nice option: it mounts directly to the tripod mount stud, and since its all plastic, it doesn't harm your flash contacts at all. It is about the size of a thumbdrive, so it fits in your pocket. Its overpriced as a piece of plastic, but quite affordable compared to other more complex options. ...


8

I don't think you're going to get #1 (Cost less then $50) in combination with #2 (Can transmit the information the same as if I had the flash directly connected to my camera.) The PocketWizard devices that send the full digital flash protocol information don't seem to be available in some cheap chinese knock-off version (yet, at least). You could go with ...


7

The CowboyStudio flash triggers got my attention because they are (a) cheap ($26 for trigger and one receiver, $22 for extra receivers) and (b) highly rated by users. You have to run the flash on manual, but the transmitter is on the hot shoe, they're wireless (not line of sight), and support four channels. There have been some complaints about the cheap ...


7

I use the Cactus V4 wireless triggers. They've been reliable for me and I use them both with hotshoe strobes and with Alien Bee's B800 studio strobes. Delivery, from Hong Kong, to Canada only took a couple of days and at the time I bought the transmitter with receiver plus two additional receivers. Now, bear in mind, these will not transmit the TTL ...


7

I think an updated answer is called for. :) When integrating studio strobes with speedlights, there are two things to consider. Whether you want more control than manual-only triggers give you for either the strobes and/or the speedlights, and how robust you want the triggers to be. Are there OEM/3rd party triggers to command the studio strobe? Some ...


7

You've got a few options: You could use a few universal translators and do it wired. You could use a cheap radio trigger (I personally use the Cowboy Strobist with the D3100 and SB-600). You could use the highly reputed classic Pocket Wizard Or if you want wireless TTL, you could look at MiniTT Pocket Wizards You can use the SU-4 Nikon remote to make any ...


7

Check out Nikon speedlights from the 1990s: SB-24 and SB-26. The lower the number, the cheaper. The higher the number, the more features. The SB-26 has a broader manual range, and the SB-28 has a built-in optical trigger. They have manual control, hotshoe and PC sync sockets, and are broadly compatible with Canon and Nikon DSRLs. Strobist on the Nikon ...


7

You mention second hand, and I commend that choice, however I think it's worth noting that there are some at-least-relatively quite inexpensive (though perhaps over £30-40; I don't know the exchange rates off hand). One is the Vivitar 285HV (or I guess now these are the Cactus KF36) (or an old higher-voltage 285 or 283, and perhaps other models, second hand ...


7

Good radio wireless remotes, like PocketWizards, fire extremely fast, well within the time the shutter opens; I pushed mine a long ways past 1/1000 before I saw problems with a black bar beginning to creep into the image. I think they're both adequate for normal situations. It's when you get into adverse situations that you'll see one work better than the ...


7

Yes, but only with extra gear like radio triggers or an external optical slave. The built-in slave can only operate in Nikon's CLS mode.


7

I would never use my flash on full power less than 1 metre from my face, for the simple fact that it's so frikkin bright. The issue isn't that it's only as bright as daylight, but that it can be miles brighter than the surrounding light, so your eyes will not be accustomed (the aperture will be fully open) and the light will be far more than your eyes can ...


7

Easy. Strobist website Lighting 101 For specifics to Nkon CLS - Nikon CLS Practical Guide For systematic assessment of ambient vs flash and other things, Neil van Niekerk's books On Camera Flash and Off Camera Flash


7

Another option to consider is getting one pair of radio triggers and then using an optical device like the Wein Peanut to make the second flash into a slave, if it doesn't already have that capability. I've used this kind of setup to fire extra flashes and stretch my existing wireless trigger capability. Note that if you go with the wired trigger bridged ...



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