I Dare You!

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1

This 300mm seems to be lightweight (755g), but definitely not cheap! http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1111442-REG/nikon_2223_af_s_nikkor_300mm_f_4e.html


2

Even with lossy compression the NEF file still contains a lot more information than a JPEG file. There is considerably more data per pixel in the NEF file. Even if the 14 bits color depth is reduced somewhat by the compression, it's still way more than the 8 bits of a JPEG image. You won't see much difference between the JPEG and the NEF in a direct ...


0

If you do no editing, such as adjusting light curves, color balance, white point, sharpening, etc. prior to converting to TIFF or JPEG, then the only difference between the finished files will be whether you allowed the automated routines in the camera make the decisions (JPEG) or the preset/automated routines in your conversion software application make the ...


-1

Tiffs use more 1s and 0s per pixel than jpegs by a ratio of 16384 to 256. Raw files store a little more data in the highlights and the shadows of an image, allowing you to better recover shadows or highlights. When your camera takes a jpeg, it will perform edits on that picture, such as white balance and sharpening changes. If you were to edit one of these ...


0

Lenses from reputable third-party manufacturers, while not 100% exact copies of Nikon lenses, are designed to fit and function in the same manner and give good imaging results. They would not survive in the marketplace if their use was detrimental to the camera. I also have the Nikon D7000, and I am looking for a fast constant-aperture zoom lens. The lowest ...


0

That's a healthy concern, but usually not as big an issue as you might expect. In most counties it's totally legal to photograph people in public places. Know your local laws. As a technique, use a 100+ mm lens to keep further away from your subject. Also, "hide" in plain sight, it's less suspicious. If you're creeping around a corner you will only call ...


0

From everything I've read about these two lenses, 1.8D may be all you need on a D600. The G has more distortion, but also rounder blades which give it smoother bokeh. So it may depend on the kind of shooting you do. The biggest upgrade with the G is that it's compatible with D3000 & 5000 series DX cameras, but that won't matter to you with your D600. ...


2

Use an F-Mount AF-S or AF-I lens to get the most from your camera. The AF-I is the older version of the current AF-S. This means the lens has an internal auto-focus motor, which the D3200 needs if you want auto-focus. You can use other lenses, but with some kind of limitation depending on the lens. A good place to check if the lens is fully compatible is ...


1

No. The same amount of light goes to the part of the sensor you are using with a DX lens on your FX body, so ISO is not impacted. When you use the DX lens you use less of the sensor, keeping the ISO / Shutter Speed / Aperture relationship unchanged.


1

Well, sort of. If you use only part of the sensor — as you do in DX crop mode — you are inherently gathering less light. (The light per area is the same — so your exposure settings are the same — but you have less area.) That means that if you print at the same size as you would an image from an FX lens, your print inherently has less light per area — or, to ...


3

The kind of lenses you need depend a lot on what and how you like to shoot, and how limited you are by your budget. Basic features, like focal length, maximum aperture, and stabilization will be determined by your usage. See this basic guide to lenses for explanations of lens features and what they mean in practical terms. You may also want to see Lens ...


-1

ISO is all to do with your camera the ISO proformance will be the same nomater what lens is on your camera. I will say that quality of light has a big impact on noise. ISO 1600 in a dark room will be more noiser (I think that's a word) that 1600 outside in the sun.


0

If your looking to upgrade ur kit lens then sigma do a 18-50 2.8 a really good affordable lens. A thing I alwas look for in a lens is auto focus af of af-s using a 3200 af lenses will not autofocus with ur camera so u will be looking for af-s lenses If you need a help handholding or you like a bit of video you can look for image stabilisation manufactures ...


0

If you want all around lens and don't want to change the lens then you can buy Nikon 18-300mm or 18-200mm lens. Kit lens 18-55mm is good general purpose lens with good quality. For portrait and landscape you can buy Nikon 16-85mm lens. For telephoto you can buy 70-300mm if you are on tight budget or you can buy 70-200 f4 or f2.8 if you can afford it.


0

This chip can accomplish three tasks: Aperture control from the camera Instead of setting the aperture via the aperture ring, the chip communicates enough information (maximum aperture) for the camera to accurately meter. The D3x00 and D5x00 bodies, in particular, cannot perform stop-down metering without this information and would not meter accurately ...


1

I'm afraid what you are describing sounds like a physical problem with the camera or lens. There is a metal lever on the back of a D lens that closes the aperture, and it should move freely. It sounds like either the camera is not moving the lever properly, or that part of the lens mechanism is broken. You could troubleshoot the problem by testing the ...


2

It probably uses the electrical contacts in post-AI bodies to tell the camera the maximum aperture of the lens so the camera can calculate correct exposure. light levels are measured with the lens at max aperture, the camera needs to know what that is so it can work out how many stops to reduce aperture. Or to set speed in aperture-priority mode. The ...


0

Got the same idea but I'm lucky enough to take day off. I made some tests last Sunday and I will make a few adjustments Friday, but after gathering some more info on the net I will probably go for • Manual focus and manual settings • F between 7.1 and 9 • Speed 1/8000 or 1/6400 • Aperture 16mm (full format) • ISO 200 I'm interested in the landscape but ...


1

The problem here is that the YN-560TX has no hotshoe; and the pass-through shoes on the RF-603/RF-603II, and RF-605 are not full TTL passthrough. The YN-622N does have full TTL passthrough, but won't trigger the YN-560IVs directly. So if you're sticking with the built-in radio receivers in the YN-560IVs, you have to stack triggers. If you want to go this ...


0

This bracket comes with a cable that looks like it's got a pass-through for the hotshoe. Looks like you could mount your on-camera on this, put the pass-though cable directly on the camera, then the Yongnuo transmitter on top of that.


0

Here are some suggestions as to how to approach your problem: Clean out the contacts within the card slot, if dirty — This can be done using compressed air, or very gentle work with pliers or q-tips with some cleaning alcohol based detergent Try smaller and/or slower sd-cards — sd-cards comes in different classes/sizes, your camera might have difficulties ...


0

If you are going to compare sensors in terms of things like signal to noise, dynamic range, and color depth at various ISO settings (the three main categories DxOMark grades on) and use that to compare the sensor technology between Nikon (Sony) and Canon, you HAVE to compare apples to apples. The primary factor in terms of signal to noise regardless of all ...


4

This is another of those cases where the real answer is a lot more complicated than telling you a lens to buy. Fashion photography in particular is very strongly about staging. Even if you're using natural light, you will need to learn to understand and control that light. For many beginners, bad experience with cheap on-camera flash drives an aversion to ...


1

A "cookie-cutter" lens for beginning would be a 35/1.8 in my opinion. It is not really expensive and it is more versatile than a 50 mm lens on an APS-C sensor. Once you are comfortable, I'd say you should buy a zoom lens, in order to have more possibilities with the background of the model.


2

That is a Canon FD mount lens. While you could find an adapter to mount it on a D3200, it's problematic, even for adapting onto a Canon dSLR. The main problem here is the registration distance. This is the distance that the lens is held by the mount away from the image plane (the sensor, in the case of a dSLR). This distance varies between mount systems, ...


0

While noise is a concern, Sometimes, you do need a bit longer than 30", depending on your lighting conditions. You can use a remote to expose for long periods of time in Bulb mode. I downloaded a remote app to my phone, and it works perfect. Set your camera to Bulb. Set to Remote. Then use the remote to fire. The shutter will stay open until you depress the ...


1

That is an FD lens which was made for Canon. You'll need to purchase an FD to F mount, which you should be able to find on ebay for less than $50. I'd advise you get one with glass so you can continue to focus to infinity.


1

The lenses you have all appear to use the original Pentax K-mount. Modern Pentax cameras lack the mechanical stop-down coupler the K-mount lenses were designed for, meaning the camera cannot detect the lens's aperture setting, limiting the camera's ability to perform auto-exposure. I believe all current-generation cameras have a "stop the lens down and ...


7

I started out much the same way, choosing Pentax DSLR because I already had Pentax lenses. While I'm still with Pentax (now on my 3rd: ist-D; K-10D and now K-5), to be honest I barely ever used my original lenses. Absolutely no offense intended but your existing lenses don't look anything particularly special, just as mine weren't - they look perfectly ...


14

So, there a couple of basics to get out of the way first. Pentax DSLRs are just fine compared to Canon and Nikon; they're solidly built, have a decent but smaller following, and in fact often have better features at the same price level (because they need to, to compete). That's not to say blindly that "Pentax Is The Best!"; in fact, they're all great and ...


5

I'm far from an expert on Pentax legacy lenses but the kit you have doesn't appear to be anything I would let drive future purchases. In other words, unless you have a strong personal tie to the equipment or are working with a very limited future budget, I would recommend not adding in those lenses to the equation. As for the statement "Pentax DSLRs aren't ...


0

Yes, that adapter should let you use a Nikon F-mount lens on an Canon EF-mount body, including the 500N. I don't think you can find an equivalent adapter to go the other way (i.e. Canon lens on a Nikon body). Please note the long list of caveats on the linked page: the lens will work in manual focus only (with focus confirmation), you need to adjust ...


0

Most of the add-on "teleconverter" filters that are 52mm are designed to be used with fixed-lens cameras, not interchangeable lens cameras. It's common for bridge cameras to either have a 52mm or 58mm filter thread, or to allow for an accessory tube that attaches bayonet-style to add a filter thread. With a dSLR, the more common type of teleconverter to ...


2

If I recall correctly, the auto/manual switch doesn't lock anything. Rather, in auto mode, it just allows your camera body to override the human operating the focus ring. That fact both the switch and the ring are seized implies the lens needs servicing.


0

This is not a good lens, i also have it and from 240mm -300 the images are horrible even at F11, i doubt you have a focus issue i think it's just the quality of the lens. Nikkor doesn't really have any lenses that perform well at 300mm that cost under 2 grand. Maybe try a Tamron xr di ld 28-300mm i got some sharp pictures with one of them.



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