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5

There are many contributing factors: Longer focal-lengths require faster shutter-speeds to reproduce details sharply when hand-held. The general rule-of-thumb is 1 over the effective focal-length of the lens. So a 300mm on a DX camera has an angle of view equivalent to 450mm and so you should expect 1/500s at least to get sharp images. The solution against ...


0

The DX 40 is a “compact digital”; the imaging chip measures 16mm height by 24mm length. We can calculate the diagonal measure of this rectangle and that works out to 30mm. This tells us that setting the zoom to 30mm delivers a “normal” angle of view. That would be an angle of 45⁰ with the camera held horizontal (landscape). 70% of normal or shorter is ...


1

Both are good cameras and both brands have good image quality and lenses. Also i would really really suggest going to flickr and using their camera finder. It allows you to find images taken with specific cameras ( Camera Finder ). If you saw better image quality from a canon it could have been a difference in the lense. Also you can use this to find which ...


4

The Nikon EH-5b power adapter will do this. For your camera model you would also need the EP-5B battery adpter via which to connect the EH-5b. Try typing in "nikon d750 power adapter europe" to Google. It will be the first result.


3

Yes, the 18-55mm lens will of course also do 35mm. This focal length determines the angular field of view of the lens. So the 18-55 is more versatile in that way. Because 18mm is a 2x wider view (than 35mm), which is called wide angle, and 55mm approaches a magnified or zoomed in view, of about a half again larger subject (in a smaller zoomed view than the ...


0

Take a look at this question at Nikon. It talks about Custom Settings Menu d6: By default sequential numbering is set to "OFF" Sequential file numbering OFF - When a new card is inserted the current folder and file numbers are not continued, file numbering starts again in a new folder. Sequential file numbering ON - When a new card is inserted ...


0

You may want to look into "AF-C Priority Selection" (if the camera has that setting) and see if it is set to Focus. http://nps.nikonimaging.com/technical_solutions/d4_tips/autofocus/ https://blog.nikonians.org/digitaldarrell/2011/08/dd-understanding-what-focus-and-release-priorities-do-during-autofocus.html In AF-C, Release Priority it will trigger ...


1

It will work perfectly in my experience and I use a cheaper $30 adapter. There are a few things to remember: Generally AI can be found for less than the AI-S and the -S won't function anyways (until there's electronic adapters). The downside of course is if you do upgrade to an electronic adapter you might want the -S Aperture information will not be in ...


3

AF-S on D90 will not activate shutter until it is in focus. This is a good thing. AF-C will activate shutter regardless if in focus yet or not, if that's what you really want. Holding half press a second first is a good plan. The D90 has menu D10 that might be on, which adds about a one second delay after mirror rise, but before shutter activates.


1

Auto-focus needs some light and a good amount of contrast. If you are missing either it will seek and cause a shutter delay.


1

Yes it will work, but obviously as a manual only lens. There shouldn't be any notable loss in quality, however there may be some in the corners depending on the combo's precision.


0

right side of the optical viewer, there is a screw hole, between two of them, there is a gap, looking through over, there is one more screw in the bottom side there, tricky one, good luck.


2

The camera simply needed its batteries changed. I also cleared out a bit of blue battery gunk from a previous battery leak. The autofocus seemed much "snappier" when I put changed the batteries, but the shutter still did not fire. This gave me enough confidence that I put a cheap film in and sure enough it is working perfectly (as far as I can tell before ...


0

Viewfinder "vignetting"/"tunnel view" My vote is that the type of screen on the back of the camera is the culprit causing the darker corners of the view. The size of the screen is large and the angle of view of the corners is more oblique than through the centre, which appears brightest. The corners are darker due to increased corner illumination "falloff" ...


4

Neither of those lenses are really what most macro specialists would consider a macro lens. For a lens to be considered a true macro lens it should be able to project a life sized image of the subject onto the image sensor or film. If you're taking a picture of a 20mm long bug, a macro lens should be able to focus close enough to project an image of the bug ...


0

I took mine to the beach for several days, and took very good care of it, however after a few days, it locked up and wouldn't extend. I asked several camera experts w/ no avail. I finally used a little "elbow grease" and took the risk and it freed right up!! Very finikcy....keep it clean!!


0

Here are points to consider when making choice: 1x crop sensor + teleconverter is almost never better (have not seen counter-examples yet) than 1,5x crop sensor with same resolution and technological level + same objective without teleconverter. Teleconverter is extra glass and extra glass always means some light loss, some contrast loss and some ...


0

Looks like a common case of lens vignetting. Here is a link to help you do some further research on understanding what causes this issue. https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/14467/~/what-is-vignetting%3F


0

Is the lack of AF Motor on the Nikon D5100 an important factor? It depends. On what lenses you want to use, and what you like to shoot. If you are mostly shooting stationary subjects (landscapes, portraits, still lifes, etc.) that give you time to manually focus, autofocus may not be something you necessarily need. Photographers got by without autofocus ...


0

I have a D5300 and I recently bought a 20mm f/1.8 (http://www.nikon.com.au/en_AU/product/nikkor-lenses/fx-format/single-focal-length/wide-angle/af-s-nikkor-20mm-f-1-8g-ed) and it's honestly been my best purchase thus far. I forked out for it because I plan to upgrade to a FX body sometime in the near future, but if you want a really good reliable wide lens, ...


0

All Nikon cameras since the old times use the same F mount. So any f-mount lens will work on your camera. However, only those with an integrated AF motor will be able to autofocus on a d5x00, and many old lenses won't be able to "tell" their aperture to the camera. So you'll have to use them in manual exposure, manual focus mode. For night time ...


0

I am not a Nikon user but if you are open to third party lenses I can recommend Tokina 11-20 f/2.8. I have a 11-16 f/2.8 (the predecessor of 11-20) and use it on my Canon (Tokina makes it for both Nikon and Canon). Gives me fantastic results and quite nicely built. Sample images: ...


0

I think this may help though I'm not sure what mode you currently have set... make sure that the AF-Area setting is on "Single Point" (pg45 of the user manual). I believe using any of the other AF-Area modes may mess up the feature. The manual seems to indicate that the functionality you desire should work. I have a D7000, and it does not have the issue ...


0

As the question you've linked to says, this is a limitation of the camera. A workaround would be to flip the lens into manual focus after you get what you want with the focus-and-recompose method. That's an annoying extra step, but at least it will work.


2

With the 70-300mm, I guess I could take pictures of the moon or any other close up objects 300mm doesn't really get you close enough for the moon. You could use a teleconverter, but you'd either have to get a third party one or make warranty-breaking modifications to a Nikon one. However, you can get some nice wildlife pictures at 300mm, particularly ...


4

The Nikon AF 70-300mm F4-5.6 ED D was a fair lens back in the day, but the problem you'll have now is that it's not an AF-S lens -- meaning it doesn't have an autofocus motor built in -- and will therefore be manual-focus only on the 5300.


1

Remember that a true weather sealing is stamped with a certification grade like IP 67. Unless you have this kind of statement, the "weather sealing" remains more or less a marketing argument saying "we have added some more sealing gaskets but you still use it under the rain at your own risks", because it does not say how much it is sealed. It gives you no ...


0

BTW, I dunno if you are considering plastic bags in addition to or in lieu of weatherproofing. Using them often produces condensation (and of course occasional leaks) so once again the weatherproofing can come in handy. Zoom lenses and some lens when focusing also draw in or expel air when moving, so watch out for that when using your equipment in messy ...


1

I believe the answer to be simple. Nikon does not warranty their product if it is used in the rain. I have a few Nikon DSLRs and I love them. But, for rainy conditions, I purchased a Pentax K-50 touted by Pentax to be weather proof. I also have two weather resistant (WR) Pentax Lenses. Don't sell Pentax short. Look at the features. I have used the Pentax ...


0

there is one more thing to add: it also depends on the lenses you attach to it. I own a D40 and put a Nikkor DX AF-S 35mm 1.8 on it and it works marvelously. IMHO, Nikon D40 is everything a beginner could dream of. I know the answer comes too late...


6

The main fundamental thing to get used to is doing the crop math in the other direction with FX lenses. What you're used to seeing as 50mm with your crop body, on full frame, will look like 35mm on your crop would. Having all your glass get wider is the first disconcerting thing you think you're prepared for, that you really really aren't. Particularly when ...


1

No, you can't. To quote from v5.0 of The Other YN-622C User Guide II, page 20: The Canon YN-622C is NOT compatible with the Nikon YN-622N. The camera codes are not the same. This actually makes sense when you consider the completely different pin/contact arrangement on the hotshoe and the inevitable differences in signal protocols. The only way I ...


0

Creating amazing photographs with your camera basically comes down to thinking up amazing photographs to take, and knowing how to use your camera to take them. It's not so much about the camera as it is about you. On the plus side, you have a waterproof and shockproof camera that you can take into situations most other cameras wouldn't be risked by their ...


0

The AW-120 can be a great learning tool as you perfect your technique and skills. You should be able to take okay photos with the AW120, but it will be difficult to to create "Amazing" photos. This camera has lots of compromises in order to fill the need of a compact waterproof camera. One important aspect of a great camera is the ability to shoot RAW ...


0

This could be downvoted but I think it is the most exact answer. How I can create amazing photographs Learn, and practice. Learn, and practice. Learn, and practice.


3

This answer actually applies to any camera. It's not immediate, but is guaranteed to be effective. Pick up camera. Create a series of photographs you think might work. Later, review those photographs and decide which you think did work best. Thr next day or week, go back to step 1. Repeat 1-3 until you feel comfortable. Over time, look again at your ...


0

The moon, and stars and the milky way etc, will require quite different lenses. If you want to take images of the stars, you need a wide, fast (very low F-stop, generally lower then F/2.8) lens. You can get passable images of the milky way with a kit 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 however it is not great because you'll have to raise your ISO to compensate for a ...



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