Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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1

See also: What should I look for when shopping for my first DSLR? Here are the questions I think you need to ask yourself before buying any new camera. What's my budget? The amount of money you can spend on camera gear will probably be the biggest limitation on getting any specific camera. It will sway your decision on whether or not you would prefer ...


1

For the most part, aside from the added instability and possible added variance in adapter thickness when stacking adapters, you're correct, but there are exceptions. Not all the Samyang lenses for mft are identical to their dSLR counterparts. Samyang does make two lenses that were specifically designed for mirrorless mounts and do not work on dSLRs, and ...


0

I finally managed to an article related to my questions. Apparently what was improved in the newer version was: Zoom lock button SIC – Super Integrated Coating. Source


0

I have the mc-dc2 and it works just fine with my d-750 !!


1

Nikon USA lists the MC-DC2 release cable as compatible with the D750. Sellers that don't include the D750 in the list of cameras that are compatible with the D750 probably created the listing before the D750 was introduced. An example: B&H doesn't include the D750 in the list of compatible cameras at the product information page. But if you click on the ...


0

When you say it looks like there is no lens attached, the only thing that comes to mind is the battery being flat. Given it's a new camera, try charging up the battery. With a dead battery you see almost nothing through the viewfinder. Very dark and very blurry (not just out of focus). With the battery charged it might look blurry if the lens wasn't ...


2

This is to be expected. The mode you are using when the rear screen shows the shot is called "live view", and in this mode, the camera uses contrast-detect autofocus, which is very accurate but inherently slow. If you use manual focus or prefocus, the lag should be somewhat reduced. In "normal" SLR mode, the mirror directs part of the light to your ...


1

The filter thread is 67mm on the Nikon 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S DX NIKKOR Zoom Lens. This information can be found on the Nikon product page here: http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/zoom/normalzoom/af-s_dx_18-140mmf_35-56g_ed_vr/


0

It sound like you may have damaged one of the points, since you say the 50 no goes on without a problem and your other lense feel loose. Check all the points and see if you have damaged the connecting ring on the camera, if these are damaged then no resetting will work you will have to focus manually from now on, to get them fixed is way to expensive it ...


2

With the current firmware of the D3200 you can't crop the image arbitrarily, you can however trim to the aspects (3:2, 4:3, 5:4, 16:9 and 1:1). This can only be done to sizes in certain steps only. You can access this function through the retouch menu and then jump to the function "Trim". I would strongly advise against using this method to crop the photo. ...


2

As this graph shows, the main differences between Canon and Nikon(Sony) sensors only really show up at low ISO: but at low ISO you can't really see the difference, not without post processing a RAW file. Here is the best post i could find demonstrating this (big) difference: Nikon DX vs Canon APS-C Now this difference will not matter to a lot of people ...


0

A prime lens, say 35mm or 50mm, are best for indoor photography where light intensity varies highly within small areas. They usually have a fast autofocus, good for events. The 50mm lens is versatile enough to cope with group and portrait photos alike. Within prime lenses, look for f1.2 to f2.0, they take the most light in. In this layout, consider also ...


4

Your Question is beyond broad in spectrum. You only stated what body you had and nothing about your level of skills or what lenses you already tested or looking to buy. Lenses can range from 150$ (or less) second hand to 2000$ or more. I will attempt to answer your question in detail since I own a D3200 myself. I have the stock 18-55mm that comes with a ...


0

The classic response would be something fast and slightly wide. I would go for a 35mm equivalent. Take a look at the work of William Albert Allard for inspiration.


3

The only difference in terms of sharpness I see is that the first shot appears to be at f/2.8 and slightly front-focused, while the second appears to be shot at f/1.8 and either slightly front focused if you are aiming for the branch in the left central area or grossly back focused if you were aiming for the nearer branch. When viewed at the same display ...


1

Prime lenses are generally sharper due to the reduced diffraction by not having the extra lens elements required for zoom lenses. A prime lens, even a cheap one, is a master of one focal length, that's all it needs to do and generally, it does it as well as the glass permits. Whereas, a zoom has to get it right over a much larger focal range, in other ...


1

The 24-70 is an f/2.8 lens. You are shooting at f/2.8. The lens is fine. Read up on what Depth Of Field is and you will understand why your pictures appear blurry. They are not, you are just using a small Depth Of Field.


0

Yes. The Yongnuo RF-603II triggers are manual-only. This means that they will work to fire any remote flash from any camera, as long as the camera uses an ISO-compatible hotshoe, and the flash uses an ISO-compatible foot: that is, the square arrangement with the rails and at least the central sync/fire signal connections: a pin on the flash foot, and a ...


2

Yes, that is normal, and a correct description. The recessed pin is for safety, to keep out unapproved connections. Be aware that there is about 325 volts on this cable. It does not just attach a battery as such, but attaches a battery powered high voltage converter, which directly charges the flash capacitor.


1

I went onto the Anker support area and was advised that all would be OK. It was. It charged and appeared to behave in exactly the same as as if it were plugged into the charger that came with the camera.


0

This site may help answer your question conclusively: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html ...however, in my experience most hand flashes powered by AA batteries and using a single x-sync flash shoe (as opposed to multi-pin proprietary flash shoes) will be safe to use. I have used half a dozen random flashes from the 1970s and 1980s on my D700 and ...


0

One possibility is that the little metal tab that depresses when you close the film door may not be engaged properly by the door when closed (e.g. if the door is bent slightly). This 'finger' is a small metal tab located in the dust seal track just below and to the left of the film advance crank. If this tab is not depressed fully, the film counter will not ...


0

Try cleaning the contacts on the lens mount and checking them for damage, it could be that the camera can't communicate with the lens. I have a Tamron 18-270 PZD which stops autofocusing occasionally, I have to wiggle the focus ring for it to start moving.


1

Try giving the focus ring a little nudge when the autofocus gets stuck. I have a Tamron 18-270 which has the same issue when zoomed at 150mm or more. It seems that due to the small change in focus required, the camera does not power the motor enough to get it moving, resulting in the noises. I don't know if you have this exact issue, it could be that the ...


1

If it's doing it with the 35mm lens and not with the 70-300mm, then it's most likely a problem with the 35mm. Try cleaning the contacts on the camera and the lens, and check that they haven't been damaged or overly scratched. The contacts are only attached to the lens mount by a small chip, so it could be that something on the lens mount or in the lens ...



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