New answers tagged nikon
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Depends on your definition of better. The 35mm is a really good lens for general photography. It is light, quite small and great in low light. It's probably the best lens Nikon make in terms of 'bang for the buck' and lots of people agree that many people with DX cameras should probably have one.
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In the manual, page 144; if you turn off the Beep setting in the setup menu, the self-timer beep will not sound.
There does not appear to be a way to toggle this beep and leave other sounds, like focus confirmation.
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It is difficult to pin down camera sales for the US only, as Canon and Nikon have many divisions (printers, imaging, instruments) and don't seem to report financial results at a very detailed level).
According to their own data (worldwide):
Canon (fiscal year ending 31-Dec 2012)
sold 8.2 million interchangeable lens cameras (Canon reference, page 3)
sold ...
1
I just bought one of those lenses on your list. The Sigma 70-300 f/4-5.6 DG Macro.
But, unlike your camera, mine has in-body image stabilization by means of sensor shift. And so far I've kept it turned On. The camera is also new to me ;) Anyway, I went out today and turned the SteadyShot Off. It was a bright day today, and shutter speeds were high enough ...
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The following worked with my P300: Take out the SD card and connect the camera to your computer. The "hidden" pics now appeared, don't know why but it works...
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Your first question is, whether a 35mm is a good second lens. The answer is clearly yes, just like you made the justification (indoor + low light). Keep in mind that with the 35mm indoors, your 35mm is not very wide. You can shoot beautifully indoors but you will sometimes feel that you are too close. I'd still buy it.
1) The Nikon lens is already quite ...
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I was in similar situation. I love shooting indoor and also in low light. And love shooting without flash (photos lose the right atmosphere). So 35mm f1.8 was my clear choice. And I don't regret. I bought new one, because it's not so expensive. I can really recommend to buy one.
Answer to 1): There are some alternatives. But they are slightly different. ...
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I'm assuming budget is no option, although both are quite cheap, and hence would suggest the kit with the 18-105. A year or so ago I had to make the same decision and opted for the aforementioned lens. I didn't regret it at all. You can find a lot of reviews for either lens, here is a small selection :
http://www.bythom.com/Nikkor18-105lensreview.htm
...
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The Nikon D3200 - as all Nikon DSLRs - do not offer an Exposure-Priority Live-View. The image stays the same no matter what you do and corresponds roughly to the metered exposure.
Canon offers Exposure-Priority and Display-Priority modes via an option in the custom menu. Sony does mostly the same. Unfortunately most other brands do not show the simulated ...
1
Well I too own a Nikon D7000 and never saw the exposure indicator in any mode other than manual.I think it make sense too as if you are in Aperture Priority its the camera that adjust the correct exposure by picking the appropriate shutter speed same is in Shutter Priority.Hope this helps.
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Any of those lenses will be fairly comparable. They all have their positives and negatives...
I have the Nikkor lens which I picked up as my first zoom in that range to use on film and it is what it is, it's built to a price and that shows. It's not the sharpest at 300mm but (although that also makes it light if you plan to carry it around). Because of ...
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I use my 80-200 extensively on a D7000, mainly for events. It is old school (no VR and no AFS motor), but for me since I'm shooting mainly outdoors, it does an excellent job and I love the sturdy construction. Excellent color, contrast and bokeh. I got it used in excellent condition for $825. The price for a comparable Nikon version would have been 2.5 ...
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For your project a few things are more important than the camera:
A concept for your video. What story are you going to tell and what tools do you need for this? Maybe get some help from somebody with video experience (AVP-StackExchange maybe?) or a book.
A tripod + video head.
Microphone.
Then you can go for the camera. It is certainly cheaper and more ...
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I suspect you're firing in rear-curtain sync mode, which means the flash is fired at the end of the exposure. Switch your flash mode to "auto" and I bet you'll see the delay disappear.
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You are using your flash on 'red eye removal' Icon: thunder+eye, put it on normal flash Icon: just the thunder.
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If money is no option, the D800 would be an excellent choice for your needs.
If money is an option, see Darkcat Studios reply.
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I'm not fully sure why you think you need to go as far as a D800, whilst it is an incredible camera (I have one) I see it as overkill for what you are looking at doing.
The D800 is no more complex in general use than most other DSLR's, however it has a lot of advanced features that you will likely never see/use/need.
Nearly any new dslr is capable of full ...
3
Star Trail Photograph is one of the most challenging activity, I've learned it from here:
http://www.jamesvernacotola.com/Resources/How-To-Photograph-Star-Trails/12233655_V7cX4D
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/h0ndzhvw/photographing-the-night-sky-star-trails.html
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Nikon cameras and lenses are covered by a 1 year warranty. Lenses have a 4 year extension of that warranty. If you have an issue under warranty it doesn't matter if it's in the 1st year or the 5th, the coverage will be the same.
If a lens is repaired under warranty, there will be no charge for the repair - you will have to cover the cost of shipping the ...
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That would go against the purpose of a reset. What is most likely to be closer to what you are looking for are custom memory banks. IIIRC, the D700 has 4. You save settings in each bank as you like and then the camera uses them when you select a particular bank. Most but not all settings can be saved this way.
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Most likely some noise reduction is being applied to the RAW files by the camera, in a way that cannot be disabled by DXO.
Someone discovered Sony were applying this technique in at least one model by showing the Fourier transform of a RAW blackframe which clearly demonstrated the high frequencies were missing.
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While I don't have an "official" answer, one reason I've thought that the size difference makes sense is that the size difference helps the shutter speed to be instantly recognizable. That is, when the shutter speed text measures all the same size you are typically actually reading the numerals, but when they are varied (if even so slightly) you are able to ...
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The smaller 0 on the dial has in my view a much simpler explanation:
If the 0 were normal size than it would touch the number above and below. The smaller 0s appear only on the longer numbers (not on M90, 30, 60 but on 250, 500, 1000).
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Manual focusing is easy. There is only one ring to turn. The difficultly is to do so with accuracy and sufficiently fast. With that lens in particular, the dim aperture makes it somewhat harder but the added depth-of-field may compensate a little.
If you enable the Range Finder option on your D5100, the camera will tell you when the subject is in focus (at ...
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Manual focus is quite straight forward. You turn the focus ring on the lens manually until the subject is in focus.
You will see as you look through the viewfinder of the D5100 that a green dot appears in the lower left corner (see page 19 of the user manual) when the subject is in focus. You can move your active AF point around to suit your needs but ...
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Manual focusing isn't "complicated" so to speak, you simply turn a ring until the image is in focus. It does, however, take some practice to get good at doing quickly. You simply want to rotate the focus ring until the image is the sharpest you can get it.
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According to Adobe, the D7000 compatible raw converter doesn't work on versions of Photoshop earlier than CS5.
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No, you don't need to be nervous yet. You may need either an updated version of Adobe Camera Raw or if an up-to-date enough version isn't available for your camera, then you may have to use Nikon's RAW tools (ViewNX) to do the initial adjustments to your photos. Once you get the photo looking the way you want from the RAW handling software, you can export ...
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For me it was a huge leap forward. When I bought my first Canon DSLR several years ago the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 II that came with the Rebel XTi was horrible. At that point in time my budget was extremely limited and the solution for me was the Tamron AF 17-50mm F/2.8 XR Di-II. Tamron had an instant rebate going at the time and I picked mine up for about ...
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I have used Kenko's tubes, they work fine.
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I've used close-up filters on mine, which are basically just magnifying lenses that you can attach to the front. It works, fully stacked I get about 2.5:1 magnification, but you really have to work to recover the sharpness I found.
Nevertheless, as the 105mm can be used with a Nikon teleconverter (no autofocus), that basically means that it will work fine ...
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Most of the answers here have addressed the technical differences between the two cameras. The question still remains: Who is Nikon aiming this camera with such a high price?
Those whose livelihoods depend on getting that marginal difference between the performance of the two cameras in every shot they sell to their client or produce for their employer.
...
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This is simply how Nikon has decided to present things. Frankly, I find it odd and is something I mentioned in my reviews of these cameras.
The reasoning I guess is that HDR is a solution to shooting a backlit subject. That way, you go to backlight mode and either use the normal part which uses the flash to fill-in the foreground or use the HDR part which ...
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Wikipedia lists Canon's (outer) throat mount diameter as 54mm vs. Nikon's at 44mm. This means, at the mount, there is an extra 15.7mm of circumference on a Canon lens vs the same Nikon lens (assuming the lens is throat-diameter-limited). Depending on how Zeiss chooses to incorporate this extra girth in the packaging of the lens, the amount of additional ...
-1
I'm a Nikon guy, but from what I know the Canon EOS system puts the AF motors in the lenses, not the bodies. So all EOS lenses that autofocus will need to have an AF motor built in. Maybe that's where the weight difference comes from, because all the top Nikon bodies have AF motors built in, so only need the focus drive shaft coupling. Presumably, ...
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Have you considered using a Nikon J1 with an adapter? The J1 has an electronic (rather than mechanical) shutter and is totally silent.
The J1 can be had for a song these days, as it's one or two generations behind the current model, and it even has a time-lapse function (something most older DSLRs will lack).
However, Nikon's adapter (called FT-1) is ...
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The only one I tried is the 70-300mm and it is a pretty good entry-level zoom lens. There is a previous version called only VR and you can get it pretty cheap on the used market. The VRII doesn't seem to be worth the price difference.
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In terms of build quality, I didn't find much of a difference between the 16-85 and the 18-105. I believe the mount material (metal vs. plastic) is overrated as long as you are using consumer bodies which are so frail that you need to take great care of the package anyway.
On a sturdy pro body, the plastic mount might be the weak link indeed, but again ...
4
A small part of the differences can be accounted for by the shorter flange distance for Canon. For the same sensor to rear lens element distance the EF mount version must be 2.5mm longer than the Nikon version at the back of the lens. The additional materials involved would also add to the weight of the lens.
Depending on the focal length, many of the ...
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I, as a beginner, and after much research, chose the Nikon D5100.
I have found two separate websites (here and here) comparing the two cameras, and as a beginner, the 5100 is definitely your better option, especially in this day and age. However, later on, perhaps you will develop different preferences, and find that you enjoy the D60.
As far as ...
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No, that lens is for Nikon F Mount, the one in the reflex cameras, digital or film.
There is an adaptor for using F lenses in a Nikon 1, the FT1 Mount Adapter, for nearly 200$, so maybe is not a good option if you don't already own other F lenses.
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With an adapter (The Nikon FT1), yes. As a native lens, no. (There are no third party lenses for the Nikon 1 system yet.)
Assuming you have the newer version of that lens with a built-in focus motor, it should autofocus and everything. It's my understanding that there is an older version of the same lens that relies on the camera body to have an AF motor; ...
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