Open

by damned truths

submit your photo


Hall of Fame
View past winners from this year

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Tag Info

New answers tagged

0

Had the same issue - how to fix re-install the button?? OR can I order a new button that has clips to hold it in!? G6wings@mchsi.com


0

Most good telephoto zoom lenses have that same feature. As Rene points out, the switch is to make the minimum focus distance further away rather than closer. The reason you do this is to reduce the range of values that the camera needs to consider focusing on, thus making it quicker and easier for it to find focus. It does, however, mean that the lens ...


0

I worked in the paint dept at home depot for may years and the best way to cut the green hue /walls is to add red In your case add a pink fitted sheet and dress the baby in white. Or use white bumpers.


6

That lens has a switch that limits focus from 5m to infinity. The other setting (full) lets you focus from 1.4 m to infinity. There is no setting to focus between 1.4m and 5m only. You cannot focus on anything closer than 1.4 meter with that lens. Manual here: http://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/lenses/AF/AFS70-200_2.8GEDVRII.pdf I use the 5m - ...


5

The AF-S 28-70/2.8D f/2.8 has been out of production since 2007. It's an older version of the lens that's more or less be replaced by the newer 24-70. Nearly every lens that's been superseded tends to cost less than newer replacement models, especially if found used (when it was brand new in 2002, the 28-70/2.8 cost $1400, which if you cost adjust, comes in ...


18

The focal length/speed is only one factor in the retail price of the lens. Other goodies like construction (metal vs. plastic), image stabilization (and other automation in general) and vintage can easily add (or remove) a zero. The two lenses in the question are very different products. The 2.8G is a newer product and lacks an aperture ring - the diaphragm ...


5

AFAIK the 28-70 isn't being produced anymore since 2008-ish? So if you are buying a new one today chances are it's been in somebody's warehouse for at least 6 years burning a hole in their pocket. The new version also allegedly boasts a better nano-coating on the front element. Not sure what else might be making up for the price difference.


0

What is difficult is to build a zoom that can maintain a constant aperture as low as 2.8 along the entire zoom range. Those lens has the characteristics that you can shoot at 70mm or 200mm at f/2.8. To be able to do this make a lens expensive. Check for example cheaper lens from Nikon. You will see that changing focal lens (zooming) will change the minimum ...


0

If you want really cheap, all the Yongnuo flashes with names that end in EX can be used as a CLS slave with i-TTL, although I believe only the YN-586EX can do FP/HSS and not all the models come in Nikon versions. Yongnuo will put gold lettering on the Nikon versions of the flash, silver letter on the Canon version. And yes, even the Canon versions can be ...


2

Since you asked this question, Nikon has come out with the SB-500, which I have and I love it. Works with CLS, so you already have a trigger. It's very compact and also has a 3-LED video light, which is fairly unique and could come in very handy for video or other uses.


2

My experience with Nikon bodies is that each body takes a slightly different shaped focusing screen. Even the second link in your question points out that there are different screens for the F4 and F5 bodies. You'll need to make sure you're getting a screen specifically for your model of camera.


2

If you are confident it's the flash tube that's bad, and are experienced in electronics, you can purchase a flash tube online and replace it. But, you will need the right knowledge, tools, and experience, and this is not as simple as, say, simply unplugging something and replacing it. Desoldering and soldering are involved. Discharging the capacitor in ...


1

All the testing that can be done has been, the ready light comes on - so it's charging ok, but with no output either through the commander mode or test button the guess at the flash tube is likely to be correct. Replacing a flash tube can be done but is absolutely not a job for the inexperienced. Even when turned off and with the batteries removed some ...


1

With in camera editing Nikon cameras ask if you want to save changes and you need to press "ok" to save the image, did this happen? The other thing that will sometimes happen is a new file is made and you might not be able to access it on your camera. If you connect the camera to your PC go to "Computer" or "My Computer" on your PC, open your camera there ...


0

The Canon camera won't be faster or easier to use unless it feels more natural to you. The only way you are going to figure that out is if you go to a store and try them both. As for the lenses, don't compare based on lenses. Both of the 50mm primes are good and both of the other lenses are not very good. The newest version of the 18-55mm kit lens isn't ...


-1

Non of the zoom lens is good. You will get average IQ with both of them. Talking about the bodies IMHO 70D is better than D5300. Both 50 mm lens are average the same. And Canon is easy for use, just need to read the documentation :) P.S. Also please check this: Is there any significant difference between Nikon and Canon?


3

This is obviously a motion blur of some sort. Unfortunately, there's nothing in the exif for the image shown. I'm going to concentrate on one small spot here to give my theory, note that it may not tell the full story. The thing we are seeing here is two overlapping images. From the Nikon site for the 5300 features: Two images taken with one ...


6

1/90th of a second is the limit of the cameras shutter speed with out electronic assistance. On your shutter dial you should see it listed as "M90", the "M" standing for mechanical. My first course of action would be ensure that you're using a fresh battery, then check the battery connections is free from corrosion. If the problem persists, it might mean ...


0

Is High Dynamic Range(HDR) getting enabled in that mode only somehow? Possibly in combination with Image Stabilization resulting in curvature of streaks.


7

This looks very much like motion blur, caused by the camera being moved during the exposure. I seriously doubt the shutter speed was really 1/800 s. Is that just what you thought you set it to, or is it what the EXIF data says? If the latter, there is probably something wrong with your camera. Note that the blurring is more a horizontal smear than ...


3

On the D610, I prefer using the 'Remote Shutter Delay' set to 3s than the Mirror Lock-Up. These two essentially do the same thing but need only one press for the former. This makes it possible to capture sharp long exposures even without a wireless remote. It works with it too though. Having the remote opens you the option to do much longer BULB exposures ...


1

You are essentially correct, yes. Firstly, you can leave Long Exposure NR on all the time. The 'mirror up' etc settings you are referring to determine what happens when you press the remote control. You want to set it to 'Mirror Up', because the action of raising the mirror causes the camera to vibrate, introducing a slight blur to your shot, which is ...


2

On the face of it, this does sound very much like a problem with your camera - you've tested it with two lenses so it's (almost certainly) not the lens, and you've shown it's intermittent by unmounting and mounting the lens. Given that, my recommendations would be: If you've got any friends / co-workers / acquaintances with SLRs, ask them to have a quick ...


0

Yes, It will. DX means the same format your camera is made for. AF-s means the lens has an auto focus motor in it. as your camera does not have a built-in auto focus system, this lens will work perfectly. However if you are too buried with the lens abbreviations, you can check out this link: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/compatibility-lens.htm I found ...


3

This is a function of the sequential writing of images to the memory card. The camera can't write one image after the other while also generating previews and displaying them. It is not controlled by a setting. You could probably do it with tethering (connecting the camera to a computer as you shoot) but that is very situation dependent.


4

You don't necessarily need a $2000+ camera. As you said, the photographer is the most important part, however good cameras make life a whole lot easier and allow shooting in situations you otherwise couldn't. Particularly for low light, having full frame makes a big difference. Additionally, higher end cameras give more direct access to controls to make ...


1

I'm going to suggest a different path: teach him to use the camera. My son went through the same excitement about pushing each button multiple times, and one time I had to do a full reset because I couldn't figure out how to undo some of the things he changed! My son had the camera in front of him since, well, he was born. I quickly figured out that when ...


3

Locking the memory card (with the little slider) should do it. Rene's second-card solution seems good too, but I'd worry that with buttons being pressed quickly at random, it'd be easy to delete all or even format the card. An even better approach might be to use an eyefi card to automatically upload your photos as they are taken. That way, it doesn't ...


-1

You could make a cover to fit over that button.


3

Nikon cameras (at least my D300 and D7100) have a lock button. Pressing this button will protect an image from accidental deletion. Review an image on your camera and press the lock button (the one with a key symbol) to protect the image.. Alternatively, you can setup your camera to make a backup copy on the second memory card. Deleting an image, is only ...


3

The mirror is interposed between the viewfinder and the sensor. The shutter is interposed between the mirror and the sensor. The mirror throws the image into the viewfinder, bypassing the sensor, so if you have a clear viewfinder image but live view (or an actual photo) shows a dark band, this suggests the problem is a sticky shutter. You will need to have ...


1

You have a full frame camera, you wont have crop effect that means you get actual frame according to the focal length(35mm or 24mm). As your interest in landscape, its better to go for 24mm of focal length, but again as you also said you need shallow depth of field and you like portraits, 35 mm is what i recommend for that purpose that has 1.8 aperture. 35 ...


6

This is the typical tradeoff between a zoom lens and a prime. The zoom gives you more flexibility, and is appropriate for both landscapes and portraits, with the whole range in between. The prime gives you a lot of quality for a small price, more light and shallower depth of field for the same focal length (and for some longer ones), it's lighter and ...


0

If you want a zoom, I'd suggest the Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 OS for about 400 euros; there's also a Tamron for about 20% more. The f/2.8 aperture is slow for people pictures in low light, but if the pictures will only be on the web, I'd just use you 30mm and crop- the loss of resolution won't make a difference. For your other needs, the 17-50 f/2.8s would be great. ...


0

Regarding the polarizer, in my opinion there is not much to choose between the 2 you mention, however, there is one that I prefer for my high end 50 mm 1.2 when I am out and about. That is the Tiffen circular polarizer. It is a fairly expensive option, but the build quality matches my lens and keeps in line with the premium feel. However, my main reason is ...


2

On non-G type AF lenses and AIS lenses (lenses with an aperture ring), there is a tab on the aperture ring that will engage with the tab you are describing when the aperture is set to its minimum (largest f-number). Without that, Auto, Program and Shutter-priority won't work properly (and you will see an error instead of an aperture value on the display in ...


0

A point to remember is that the camera enters live view at the currently set (or metered) aperture, then remains there no matter what changes you make, until you either exit live view or take a photo. This means that movies aren't always recorded at the currently-set aperture. Lets say you are in Aperture Priority Mode you set the camera to F5.6 and enter ...


1

Technically, it still can't change aperture while recording, as the motor who flips its mirror up is the same which changes the aperture. Logically, it wouldn't make sense if it could change it while recording. As far as I know, only recent Nikon cameras have independent motors for each use, like the new D810.



Top 50 recent answers are included