India Point Park

India Point Park
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28

In addition to the points Alex S made, you need to consider why they want RAW. There are several possible reasons: Bit depth as Alex S said. JPG suffers from compression artefacts which RAW doesn't. Blown up to exhibtion size these can jump out and ruin a print. Having the RAW file is often used as a proxy for having taken the photo, as RAWs aren't ...


27

RAW is not (or minimally) processed image data from camera sensor. JPEG is processed image data. Typically, raw-files from modern cameras have 12-14-bit per pixel which means up to 16384 values (for more details see Michael Clark's comment). JPEG can have only 256 luminance values per RGB channel. This means that jpeg contains much less data than a ...


7

If you can't get you Sigma 70-300mm lens to fit on your Nikon D5000, it is likely the lens is made for a different lens mount system than the Nikon F mount. Sigma and many other lens makers produce many of their various lens models in multiple lens mounts. What this means is that for a particular Sigma lens design, such as a 70-300mm DG Macro, they produce ...


5

Noise is only peripherally about ISO. What really determines noise is the Signal-to-Noise Ratio. The reason we assume high ISO is noisier is because we normally use high ISO when the signal (the amount of light falling on the sensor) is weak. But shooting at high ISO when there is plenty of light in a scene will produce less noise than shooting at low ISO ...


4

You cannot (should not) produce a raw from a jpeg. Theoretically it would be possible as compressed NEF is based on a TIFF container and a "wide" JPEG/JFIF variant IIRC. And all is not lost as, having run these kinds of competitions, I can say that you may still be able to enter depending on what type of competition it is and why they want raw files... ...


4

You appear to have a Nikon camera. On all other brands, one chooses from a list of ISO sensitivities or Auto. The camera then uses the specified ISO for every option other than Auto. With Nikon, if you have Automatic Sensitivity Control enabled in the Shooting menu, then the camera will use selected ISO as the default and actually select another ...


4

1/2000 is the time the shutter is open. What you are looking for is frame rate, frames per second (fps), and the two are not directly related. The D7100 maxes out at 5-7 fps. The mirror lockup seems to be for only one picture at a time (p. 61 in the user's guide), and won't increase the frame rate. You can get a higher frame rate with video: Your camera ...


4

Assuming you're not talking about the normal exposure interval delay in closing the shutter after opening it, you should never experience any noticable delay in opening the shutter after pressing the shutter button unless: Your batteries are low. The self timer is slightly engaged. There is an electrical fault in the metering system. The batteries ...


3

The Nikon FA manual is interesting reading... On Page 39 there is a description of the exposure metering system that I think explains the delay you're encountering. Basically, when using one of the automatic modes, the metering system reads the exposure data and compares that to the patterns (about 30,000) stored in memory in order to determine the correct ...


3

In the Incandescent menu, just adjust the dot back to the 0,0 center position of the colored grid.


3

There exist methods to do this, but as Alex. S also points out in his answer, there are no standard tools that I'm aware of that will do it for you. In principle, it's a straightforward problem. While there are a vast number of mathematically possible raw files that are consistent with the given JPEG file, the vast majority of those are not likely to be the ...


3

You've tested with multiple cards/readers. That's definitely indicative of a problem with the camera itself. Some additional tests are:- plug a cable into the camera directly. copy the files to a different machine. You might have a USB problem there that you didn't know about. view the nef using different software (for example ViewNX.) copy the same ...


3

The lens and camera are probably "good enough", but they're ( of course ) not ideal. Unless you've a very large budget they're as good as you'll get. An ideal system would be much larger ( heavier and costlier ) and be more complex to use ( which is itself a handicap ! ). Better the equipment you know than something you don't. Given that wildlife shots ...


2

You cannot choose multiple points to have in focus at the same time in a shot. You can let the camera choose which one of several points it will use as a focus point in the shot, but the camera will not make any attempt to get all the points in focus - just one. You have limited control over how much of a scene around a selected single focus point will be ...


1

The large center pin is the main thing (along with the ground connections at the edges) on a standard hot shoe. The smaller pins are for proprietary communication between a specific camera brand and flashes compatible with that brand's automatic flash protocol. Of you are creating a self made flash you only need to be concerned with the center pin and ...


1

If you would mention your concerns, possibly some answer could address some specifics. There are many signals at the Nikon hot shoe. The smaller pins conduct ongoing active communication (Nikon system is named CLS) between the camera and the flash. The flash is told values of f/stop and ISO to display (and the flash can compute and show maximum flash ...


1

Both Canon and Nikon are producing very good quality videos (and of-course photos) in their mid range DSLRs. If you taken the high-end D-SLRs, then you can see Canon EOS 5D mark X is used by many videographers around the globe. This is mainly because Canon have a vast area of video expertise as compared to the Nikon. Although Nikon was the first company to ...


1

It could still be your shutter speed (since you didn't say you tried different shutter speeds). To test this, take at the exact same exposure settings but without flash. If the top of your picture looks the same as the top of this one (in the shadow) then it's still your shutter speed being too fast. Or another test is to just put your shutter speed ...


1

My guess, without more info is that you have accidently changed your camera's mode to 'manual'. Press the 'Menu' button, then click 'Exposue Mode' using the control dial. Next choose 'P' for program mode and press the Menu button. The camera should now take pics normally. As an aside, the 10-30 lens has free update available to correct a focus problem if you ...


1

If you are under the same lighting conditions and have the same settings selected when manually pushing the shutter button each time (the flash always fires) as you do when using the self timer (the flash only fires once), then it appears that the limitation of only the first frame firing the flash when using the internal flash (see pages 70 and 148 of the ...


1

With the internal flash? Not with the internal flash. The internal flash will fire only one time in any continuous shutter mode, including self timer. See D7200 manual page 70 and also 144. You can however use a hot shoe flash the way you want, but not the internal flash.


1

Ok, I see the problem you're talking about - but only just. My first impression is that the diagnosis from Nikon is quite plausible. My second thought is that the reason you don't see the artefact in still is because it possibly only is visible if you drastically underexpose the shot like you did in the video. Try taking a correctly exposed shot of a pale ...


1

I'm going to take an optimistic stab and say that what I see in your picture doesn't look entirely like a typical fungal growth to me. They aren't usually so 'spotty', often appearing as a small number of distinctly 'spidery' blooms. Anyhow, that's beside the point - your lens needs a clean. If you're going to do this yourself, the first question you need ...


1

FWIW, there is wider sleeving that will hold four strips of 3 6x7s, such as this sleeving material. If the scanner only detects the first two frames, then after you've scanned the first two frames, maybe you can insert the film upside-down to get the scanner to detect the last frame, then rotate that scan afterward.


1

Wasting a sleeve is the right way to go unfortunately. If you're extremely careful yes they will barely fit in as 3s, but I've found that they'll slip out one edge and damage your film if you breath wrong. Definitely do not go with an internegative (rephotographing your negatives) process, I'm not sure where that came from.


1

As indicated above, it is what you want the lens for that will be the deciding factor. I would also emphasize using the kit lens at 35mm and 50mm to see what you will like best. Tape the lens so it won't zoom when being used after setting the focus. However I have the 50mm f/1.8 lens for portraits, and am not happy with it. It works just fine, but I should ...



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