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9

There is no way to change the cameras ISO when you are on the preset Auto mode. This is typical of all cameras. This is because by being in Auto you are telling the camera that you want it to control all the settings. Hence the greyed out ISO control. You can try changing the camera mode to P (Program) which is still an auto mode; but it gives you slightly ...


6

You will need a memory card — and to just get started, that's basically it. Sometimes a memory card is included in a camera store bundle, but such bundles are usually a bad deal (see Does it make sense getting any of these "extra" lens packages?). As far as I know, a memory card is never included with an interchangeable lens camera or official ...


6

If you read Canon's public statements at the time the EOS system/EF mount was introduced in the late 1980's, they spoke of the longer 44mm registration distance and larger diameter flange of the EF mount, when compared to their existing FD mount that had a registration distance of 42mm, as leaving room for future capabilities. If they had been concerned with ...


4

No. There are several problems here. This lens looks a lot like the Senko 50mm f/0.95, i.e., it is a C-mount lens for 1" format video. This lens vignettes even on micro four-thirds (2x crop). There's no way the image circle will cover an APS-C or full-frame camera, and the registration distance is much much smaller than that of Nikon F. In order to get the ...


4

The single best thing you can get after a body, lens and cards is a nice bag. The best camera in the world is no use to anyone on a shelf at home. Steer clear of any that come free with the camera, they're universally ugly and poorly made. Go to some shops and have a play with what's there. Bags are quite a personal item, but you're looking for something ...


3

What you'll need depends on what/how you plan to shoot, so waiting until you've had the camera for a while before thinking about buying more stuff for it is probably worth trying. But the things every digital shooter wants in addition to a body/lens or kit to get started is a relatively short list: a computer of some kind. Because, otherwise, how are you ...


3

One solution for this is to use a hood. It's basically a black box that you place on your display. You look into it through a little eye piece that often also magnifies. Take a look at what's available at B&H for example. As you can see, making the image brighter is not a good solution. It will eat up more battery while still being unable to compete ...


3

There's no way to assign a date-based filename on-camera. However, there are quite a few pieces of software that will help do just this when ingesting photos from the memory card to your computer, giving you the ability to define your preferred file name, folder structure, and assorted metadata, too, such as Adobe Lightroom and Camera Bits Photo Mechanic.


3

No, because the register (distance from the mounting flange of the lens to the sensor plane) is quite short.


2

To quote from the 572D manual: Automatic Focusing (for Nikon/Minolta/Pentax AF SLR) When the camera is on the autofocus mode, the lens focuses automatically. Digging a little further, this thread confirms my suspicion that the Tamron lens doesn't have a built in focusing motor, but instead uses the screw drive motor which exists on higher-end ...


2

Impossible, I'm afraid. Video is just so much of a fundamental change that there's no way a manufacturer, or anyone else, could add it to a camera by a firmware update or similar even if they wanted to.


2

No, not directly. The Air Remote triggers have no way to attach to a flash foot (i.e., there are no hotshoe receiver units in the system). On the Canon side of the fence, there are folks who are sandwiching TTL radio triggers (YN-622, Pixel King, etc.) between the camera hotshoe and the Air Remote, and achieving TTL/HSS with speedlights that way, but with ...


2

It's almost certainly a co-incidence. Adaptability of foreign lenses wasn't a big thing back then in the SLR world (it was more common with medium format cameras). The simple reason for this was that camera bodies were much cheaper as they were essentially just light tight boxes with a shutter, mirror and viewfinder (you might get electronic metering or an ...


2

What you'll need will depend on what you want to shoot. For portraits, you're gonna need ways to control the light. Just about everything you'll need to get started on lighting can be found on Strobist. Landscapes can be improved with a good tripod. Get one that's good and stable because you don't want it falling down and breaking your camera. You'll also ...


1

You don't need anything beyond a lens, body, and a memory card/film. If you are looking to buy more things, look beyond equipment and invest in learning the craft. Books, in person training, and 1 on 1 sessions with more experienced photographers are well worth the price.


1

If you consider buying a tripod as many have suggested here, then you should also consider buying a wireless remote control for your camera. The tripod is used to eliminate camera movement to allow for long exposure shots or to allow images to be aligned more accurately for doing image processing involving multiple images (e.g. making HDR pictures or doing ...


1

Here are some suggestions (with sample price from Amazon; look to B&H Photo, as well). You certainly will need memory card(s), and probably a spare battery or two. You also should get a case or protective bag, if you do not have one. A tripod is useful for close-ups, night photography and studio work. There are many types, from inexpensive ones that ...


1

The high pitched squeak you are hearing, is most likely coming from the AF motors in the Lens. Nikon budget and kit lenses have been known for this issue for many years. From what I know, very rarely do these squeaks actually affect the AF performance and in the over whelming majority of cases, people have lived with these squeaks for years and just become ...


1

The eye lens (ocular) of the viewfinder frequently gets smudged by handling the camera or even from eyelashes. Cleaning the ocular lens is easy, as you've already done at least the outside (just use lens tissue, possibly with a drop of lens-cleaning fluid on the tissue, not on the lens itself). If the ocular unscrews, you might clean the inner surface, ...


1

This prescription is for -1.25 diopters (under "sphere"), plus some astigmatism ("cylinder" and "axis"). You won't find an off-the-shelf corrective piece to deal with astigmatism — usually we just ignore that. The add-on corrective eyepiece is designed so the nominal number is the result when used in combination with the existing adjustment in its neutral ...


1

Agreed - my prescription is aprox -2, and the -2 eyepiece works for me.


1

Rather than transferring mechanical motion from the camera body to the lens via a mechanical linkage (what Nikon calls a regular diaphragm), in order to control the size of the aperture diaphragm an electromagnetic diaphragm uses a small motor inside the lens to move the diaphragm based on electrical communication between the camera and lens. There are a ...


1

Probably the fastest and easiest way to cover the bases would be to do automatic exposure bracketing. But if you want to be precise, I'd say either use an external light meter, or get really really good/fast with the Sunny 16 rule, and learning to use your histogram to judge exposure. The Sunny 16 rule is a good way to approximate for exposure. In clear, ...


1

Lens Manufacturers such as Sigma and Tamron make the same lens for various different camera manufacturers, however, each lens mount is different and is dedicated exclusively to that camera manufacturer. In other words, if you wish to purchase a Sigma 18-200mm Lens for a Canon, then you need to buy a Sigma Lens with a Canon Mount I.E- EF or EF-S Fit. The ...


1

I am not sure your question can be answered - it is a very subjective one, and what is worthy for you may well not be for someone else. However, I have (over the last two years) bought a D300S and a second one as a backup camera. For me this camera has proved to be perfect - I mainly do landscapes. Although the size of images (at 12-15Mb) might be viewed ...


1

Couple of other things to check: Are both of the YN-605Ns in the same 603/602 mode? Is the YN-568EX out of all slave modes? [slave modes tell the flash to only listen to the sensor panel and to ignore the foot--the radio triggers are on the foot]. Without the camera or flash, does using the test button on the transmitter 605N fire the receiver 605N? (check ...


1

HSR isn't HSS. To quote from the PocketWizard PlusIII's website: HIGH SPEED RECEIVE Normally, the Plus III is capable of triggering lights or cameras at a sustained rate of up to 12 frames per second (FPS), a standard for PocketWizard radios. Set the Plus III to High Speed Receive Mode (HSR) and trigger at rates up to 14.5 FPS, beyond the ...


1

This screen also known as a "ground glass screen" (though it's not always made of glass) has a very fine etched pattern on one side of it to facilitate the way it scatters light. Cleaning the side of it with this surface is not practical as it's likely to both deposit small particles into this etched surface and possibly damage the etched surface (think ...


1

The Nikon US page says the WR-R10/T10 are compatible with both cameras: http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Remote-Transmitters/WR-R10-Wireless-Remote-Controller-%28transceiver%29.html You need both devices, since the T10 transmits and the R10 receives. (The UK page isn't clear about it, but shows the same lineup of cameras in the "Related ...



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