Lightnings taking a ride

by ceinmart

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8

Simple answer: No, you don't need a UV filter. There is no particular reason to use one... film was quite sensitive to UV light, more so that the eye, so when shooting film a UV filter did something useful. Digital sensors are different in this respect, less sensitive to UV, so a UV filter is irrelevant. All you are doing with a UV filter is to stack up more ...


4

It seems likely that there is a hair, eyelash, or other small artifact on the sensor. Something on the lens is unlikely to show up like this (it'd be too out of focus). You may be able to simply blow it off — don't use your mouth, and definitely don't use compressed air, but a quality "rocket blower" (with an intake filter) should do it. Put your camera into ...


4

Yes, it is a good idea to use the configuration you describe for mirroring/backup. The general algorithm is (unfortunately) in many models single-threaded in its storage part (IOW from step3 onward) and is as follows: The picture is shot and is placed in camera's internal buffer in a queue structure. The storage's subsystem I/O listener checks if the ...


3

This is now fixed in one of the recent (this week)'s windows updates. Just do a Windows Update, restart your PC as prompted to ensure installation, and try again. You will see that the issue has now gone away. Many people, including me, are reporting this problem. See Window 10 and Nikon D7000 dslr on Microsoft's support forum. It appears to be a ...


2

In Aperture Priority mode, you set a chosen aperture and the camera will automatically match the shutter speed so that a correct exposure is produced (according to the metering mode). The exposure indicator will only be shown if you apply an exposure compensation (hold the +/- button and rotate the command dial). By default the exposure compensation is set ...


2

Nope. You may want to follow this location for any 3rd party firmware updates for that feature besides any Nikon updates for that model. But in the meantime, your best bet is an external lightweight unit that can be taped to the drone. Here's one helpful guide.


2

My advice is for you to definitely go for the Nikon 55-300mm lens. Since you already have your kit lens 18-55mm , you can already take pictures of moderately wide angle , and natural human eye POV angle (which is around 35mm in a DX crop sensor). Buying a 18-105mm will only extend your KIT lens's capability bit more by adding 50mm range. Buy this lens if ...


2

I think the question is mainly about performance of various lenses. Set at 18mm your 18-105 will shoot the same field of view as the 18-55 set at 18mm. However that does not mean the pictures will come out the same. Generally speaking the 18-55 is a sharp lens across the range it servers (I dont own an 18-105 so I cant really comment). A lot of people really ...


2

You don't need CHDK to accomplish this. I was doing it ten years ago with my little Powershot A520. Including live view and tethered capture using the free Canon CameraWindow software. And it doesn't even support CHDK. You can find Canon point and shoot cameras pretty cheap used.


1

Answering the - Is it Suitable part of the question - I have used a Nikon 60mm Macro in the past for portrait photography, which gave very nice results - Sharp with great backgrounds. However I have also used a 28-300 zoom for portraits where I may need to be a little quicker on the change - for example Pets and small children tend not to stay still whilst ...


1

A mark this noticeable would have to be on either the rear element, or more likely, the sensor, as was said in another answer. Dust is most harmful to image quality at locations within the optical system where the image is "created" and projected; the rear element of the lens and the sensor respectively. Light is more tightly converged at these locations, ...


1

When doing AF Fine Tune (Nikon) or AF Micro Adjustment (Canon), the test distance should be as close to possible as the distance you plan to shoot in "real world applications". At the very least, you should probably use a distance that is 25x the focal length of the lens. 50x is even better when possible (very long lenses make this problematic in a ...


1

The two lenses you're looking at are two different types of lenses. The 18-105 is a walkaround zoom, and can also be considered a superzoom (i.e., a lens with an extraordinarily large zoom range, that goes from wide angle to telephoto). It's made to be very convenient in terms of framing/zooming capability, but will have compromises in optical performance ...


1

The higher the mm on a lens, the more zoomed in the picture. And 55-300 is a good lens, on top of the kit 18-55. 18mm can take a normal picture, it basically has no zoom at all. The 300 can zoom in a lot, and can take great pictures, but only close ups and far distances. I'd suggest keeping your 18-55, and buying the 55-300.


1

I'm guessing, I don't know the internals, but stop and think about it... The camera clearly already has the file buffered in its memory, from which it writes the first card. Why would it would it take the time to read it back (to write the second card), when it already has it buffered in memory? It is possibly multi-threaded, and writes both at the same ...


1

The only use for a UV filter for digital cameras is to protect the lens, although there are mixed opinions about the usefulness of that. I do use a UV filter for extra protection, also to protect the lens from moisture. The lens then has to be cleaned less often, therefore it will accumulate scratches less fast. Now a few scratches won't affect image ...


1

Check this? This might help.. http://www.eyefi.com/


1

Can put the Profoto AirTTL on camera hot shoe to TTL and HSS the Profotos and also connect whatever other flash to PokcetWizard, Attached one PocketWizard to SyncPort of the camera.


1

First, try something like a Giotto Rocket blower. They shoot a very powerful air stream. Hold the body with the lens mount facing down so anything you knock loose, falls out. I just bought a K screen for my F3 from KEH. BGN grade, because $7 was more to my liking than $17. It had a noticeable spot on the lower (contoured) surface, the one you're not ...



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