Alley in Pisa, Italy

by Lars Kotthoff

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7

If the issues with your current setup are low constrast and looking washed out, then a new lens isn't going to help. A polarizer will help in some cases when there is some blue sky in the picture or a rainbow, but otherwise it won't make much difference either. What will matter is post processing. Clouds are all quite bright, even the "dark" ones. The ...


6

I'm not sure what you are hoping for. The shutter is not in the lens, but rather in the camera. A lens can't increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera itself unless it had it's own independent shutter. I'm not aware of any such lenses. Speed Boosting adapters are not used to increase the maximum shutter speed of the camera, but rather to focus ...


6

Put it in Manual (M) mode and roll the wheel until it shows 'Bulb' on the display. Press and hold the shutter button for the desired length of time. You don't need a remote, but it helps to prevent camera shake to a great extent. P.S. The manual is your friend.


5

The FX lenses work fine, so I wonder if there is any point buying a DX Lens? Yes there are several points. Because the image circle for a DX is smaller there exist DX lenses which doesn't have counterparts in FX lineup. Just two examples: the famous Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM (no Full Frame zoom with f/1.8 exist) the new super-super-zoom Tamron ...


4

That's a fine camera. It was Nikon's entry-level model when it came out in 2008, and it replaced the D40 and D40X, the former of which was a top-selling DSLR for many years straight. In general, it's plenty reliable, but a) like all DSLRs, it does have a lot of moving parts and b) like all mass-produced electronics, there are sometimes duds. Are you ...


4

I guess you are confused with term "faster lens". It basically a high quality glass with very small f number say f/1.2. The use of this kinda aperture is in low light conditions. When you can bring down the f number to gather more light, it helps you choose a faster shutter speed, you can pick a shutter speed you camera is designed for in your case no matter ...


2

Nikon G Lenses use a mechanical aperture control, so I would guess that it should be possible modify one to add a aperture ring. Would it be practical? No. Either go for a newer camera or an older lens model.


2

I assume you mean you want the equivalent focal length as a 70-300mm lens on a DSLR body? If so, the J1 has a crop factor of 2.7x and that means you want something like the Nikkor 30-110mm lens, which they make for the Nikon 1 series. If you mean an actual 70-300mm lens, they also make a Nikon 1 series 70-300mm Or you can buy the FT1 Adapter, which will ...


2

While you can use the Bulb mode and press the shutter release button, the button presses are likely to cause unwanted camera shake, even on the sturdiest tripod. I use and recommend an intervalometer such as this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA04D09G0109 Notice that the shutter release time can be set for any time up to 99 hours, 59 ...


1

You aren't really missing a lot in terms of RAW manipulation and actually may have some slightly improved options with the vendor provided RAW editor. The main thing that third party tools are designed for is workflow management and cataloging. They make it easier to manage large numbers of files, tagging them so they can easily be found later and ...


1

If you are taking sport shots and need a high minimum shutter speed, shoot in S (shutter priority) mode instead, and force the camera to use a speed like 1/800. It will adjust your other settings (ISO, aperture) to accommodate it. But be careful: it might make boost the ISO so much that it may make your images grainy. But you'll get the higher shutter speed ...


1

check out the tokina 11 - 16mm 2.8f http://www.tokinalens.com/tokina/products/atxpro/atx116prodxii/


1

There's no benefit in terms of image quality to the larger sensor of the 610 if you are going to use DX lenses in crop mode (except possibly in noise, not sure exactly how the D610 compares to the D3200). Having said that there's no real loss either when resizing images for the web - 10 megapixels is plenty. You could probably get away with the 35 f/1.8 in ...


1

The problem is in the Thumbnail — that's what really shows in the camera. If you check the jpg files created by the camera and generated by most programs, they have thumbnails with offsets and completely different sizes. I think the camera looks for a marker for specific offset which the camera and other programs, including VIEWNX2, are able to generate. ...



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