It's a bird

by Vian Esterhuizen

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9

Most dSLRs have the capability to be set to save both the RAW and JPEG versions of an image. The RAW file is (mostly) the raw data dump from the sensor, while the JPEG is a compressed file, where some of the color data was discarded in order to make the file much smaller. If you simply go to the size/quality settings in your camera, and turn off RAW+JPEG, ...


5

You probably took raw and jpeg images. take a look at the file extension, one is probably .nef and the other .jpeg Is there a way to turn this off so I don't have to go through and delete one copy of everything all the time. Yes, you have to check you user manual for that. If you only want either one, you have to decide which one. Nikon has this ...


3

According to the manual for your camera it has approximately 43MB of internal storage. This is unlikely to be able to store the number of pictures you took but, if the instructions in the manual are followed, you may be able to retrieve at least some of the missing pictures. Page 24 of the manual states that any images on the internal memory can only ...


3

I will answer based on my background as an electrcal engineer since the sensor and at least part of the autofucus system are electronics. Pure water, as a general rule, is not harmful to most types of electronics. However if the water has any impurities in it, it can cause corrosion which is harmful. It doesn't take much in the way of dust, minerals, ...


3

On the back of the camera, there is a dial like this: Use the arrows to scroll back and forth through your images, after pressing the playback button. You can press up/down to scroll through additional information about an image (view histogram etc) This is on page 35 of your manual Edit: on page 257 of the manual, it says about custom menu f5 ...


3

When using single point focus, you need to line up your subject and focus point selection for focusing, so the information on selected focus point location is useful even before auto focus has not yet been activated. Thus, on a D7100, the focus point is always displayed in single point mode. This is indeed different from dynamic AF area modes, where the ...


2

You set the power from the custom menu on your camera (menu item e3 on most models). For each channel you can set exposure compensation to dial the power up/down


2

Cameras before about 1960 generally did not have light meters in them (there were only a very few in the very late 1950s). Those after 1960 mostly did. This corresponds to the introduction of semiconductors. The first Nikon F SLR was 1959, no meter. The Nikon FTn version added a meter in the mid-1960s. There were actual debates around this time about "can ...


2

There have been a few, these are the ones I know about -- (These are all, of course, film cameras) The Nikon SP, a rangefinder camera not using the F mount The Nikon F, the first F mount SLR from that company. The viewfinder/pentaprism was removable and while there was an optional viewfinder with an exposure meter but you didn't have to use one. The Nikon ...


2

Cameras are nothing, pictures are everything. The most important thing to do is to keep taking pictures. Rent a replacement unit. Get some disposable cameras if necessary. Verify the usability of the pictures that your camera now takes. But you see how this is point two right? If you haven't got a replacement for it, don't even bother investigating any ...


2

Was the SD card formatted? If you chose to delete all images, rather than format the card, are there some images that are marked as protected, which it would have skipped. They may show a key symbol when viewing the images on the rear screen. Also, is the card write-protected using the physical slider on the card? If so, the card would neither format nor ...


1

HSR isn't HSS. To quote from the PocketWizard PlusIII's website: HIGH SPEED RECEIVE Normally, the Plus III is capable of triggering lights or cameras at a sustained rate of up to 12 frames per second (FPS), a standard for PocketWizard radios. Set the Plus III to High Speed Receive Mode (HSR) and trigger at rates up to 14.5 FPS, beyond the ...


1

Most Nikons that I have taken apart use the flip-up type ribbon connectors, you have to flip up the top edge, insert ribbon and flip down. If you tried just pushing it in flat its unlikely to have gone in far enough. This is a very common type of connector on electronics (Laptops, cameras etc)


1

Unfortunately for you, cameras these days don't come with any form of "internal" memory1 so if you didn't have a memory card in your camera, your photos are lost forever. Sorry about that. Or if they do, it's so limited that it may as well be none.


1

Cleaning a sensor is not easily done, and requires [expensive] professional service. It definitely cannot be done safely with canned air, lens brush or similar tool. As @Jerry Dallmann states, pure water from condensation is, in itself fairly innocuous. However, as it forms droplets on the sensor and lens, any random dirt specks are pushed into more obvious ...


1

With the information you are giving, it's hard to tell if the camera can still be repaired, but it is likely still repairable. 1: When you look through the viewfinder, you don't see parts of the image sensors. Also the sensor can not really move as far as I know. It's more likely that either the shutter moved or the mirror moved. 2: When you remove the ...


1

If you want a Nikon, I'd definitely go for the FM or FM2(n) and just not put a battery in. All the battery powers is the meter – without a battery the camera is completely manual. If you want a rangefinder (since you mentioned Leica) but don't want to shell out $5k, there are cheap Russian Soviet-era Leica clones you can find. The Zorki 4 or 4k is commonly ...


1

TL;DR Try P mode on the camera. You need to learn how flash works. Putting everything on auto is the easiest way to lose control over exposure with flash. If you're shooting in completely consistent circumstances all the time (which seems likely), you'll probably do better having everything on M mode, finding out what works best, and then locking down the ...


1

Remember, Nikon 70-300 (1.5x costlier than the 55-300 option) is also a FX lens and hence it can be treated as future investment. Tomorrow, when you invest in a FX body like D750 or D810, you can easily use 70-300 but not the 55-300 or 55-200 I have both the Nikon versions, the 55-200 and 70-300, and so can stress upon the fact that VR is a must when it ...


1

You will get this message if the lens barrel is locked; push the lock/unlock button on the lens. Then extend the lens a bit, and that might take care of the problem---at least it did for me!



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