Antarctica

Antarctica
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Hot answers tagged

6

(Some people might hang me for this but) You could take two shots and photoshop/merge them together afterwards. To do this you would have to take two shots from the exact same spot, maybe use a tripod. Take the first shot with the right settings to get your desired exposure for the outisde bit of the tunnel. For the second shot with the model use either ...


6

Sounds like you want the outside of the tunnel to be properly exposed and not blown out. Meter for that and with your camera set to full manual mode use the settings suggested by the light meter. Take some test shots to fine tune the exposure. You are limited with an on camera flash but try adjusting the power of the flash with the flash compensation ...


5

We can't change f-stops in nikon d3200 in live view mode because when the mirror is lifted up the aperture-setting lever stops working. It works fine in viewfinder mode since the mirror is down. Just to clarify your doubt please switch to different lens and try changing f-stops in live view.


4

Everything you need to know you can find at Nikon's site for each of those lenses. AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II Filter size: 52mm (same for lens cap) Hood: HB-69 Bayonet Lens Hood AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR II Filter size: 52mm (same for lens cap) Hood: HB-37 Bayonet Lens Hood


3

There are special situations where MF will be more reliable, but most of the time AF is better: Lenses that are designed for AF are usually difficult to focus manually with great precision. The internal focusing mechanism is designed for AF speed, which means that small movement of the focusing ring makes relatively large difference in the focus plane. The ...


2

Get more groups, or at least different triggers. Just me, but consider getting some additional gear. Picking up a cheap 3rd party CLS-capable flash, such as a Yongnuo YN-586EX (make sure you get the Nikon version), would let you use your SB-800 as your commander, and give you four groups (three off-camera). Or using TTL radio triggers (Phottix Odin, Godox ...


2

one behind the subject over exposing a white background by one stop It sounds like you don't necessarily have to adjust this one as frequently as the other two. If you set this background flash to manual dumb optical slave mode (that is: let it fire in the manually adjusted settings when it sees another flash) you can distribute your other two flashes over ...


2

You can set Exposure Compensation directly on the speedlight. Second button from the left. Note that any EC set on camera is in addition to any EC set on the speedlight. Camera +1, speedlight -1 result is 0 EC.


2

Try holding the unmounted lens and moving the aperture linkage while looking through the lens. If it is a little stiff at first and then moves freely after a couple of cycles from one end of the lever's movement to the other then that's probably all you need to do. Next time be sure the lens is in dry air and at ambient temperature before storing it away ...


2

Strictly, to get "crisp results" they are both exactly equal and capable. Autofocus and manual focus both do the same thing -- bring the image into focus -- and by moving the glass they both do this the same way. It's really about the user, the camera, the conditions. Try using manual focus by simply racking back and forth and you'll get nowhere. Try using ...


2

There's no definitive answer to this. It depends on what your subject is and what the situation allows. If you're shooting still life or landscape from a tripod, you can switch to Live View, zoom in and use manual focus. If you're shooting sports or live music, there will be a lot of movement involved, so it won't be easy without continuous focus (AF-C).


2

Digital camera viewfinders don't have the special focusing aids film cameras had to make manual focusing easy. 50mm is a bit long to try to focus manually with a flat glass viewfinder on a crop sensor camera that lacks DoF preview, especially if you're buying a prime with the intention of using large apertures (which reduce depth of field even further). If ...


2

The thing to consider is your own skill level really. If you can precisely tune the focus without the use of auto-focus then you can probably get away with using it. Otherwise, I would say just stick with your kit lens until you can afford the af-s lens.


2

Do you want the short answer or the long one? Some viable options or the best one? The long one. I am worried here. There are toooooo many basic points on the question. So I am preparing a check list of points you must further investigate. I will just write a basic tip on each point. No bokeh: What aperture gives bokeh and which not? Do not use a wide ...


2

It will depend a lot on the quality of the adapter you get, but I'd say that it would probably work well enough that if it gives you a significant cost-savings, and you don't mind the possible image quality vagaries of adapting, it's worth trying. As you say, there's no electronic communication to be lost, anyway, and you were already set to manually focus, ...


1

Your AF-S 18-105 VR lens has what is known as internal focusing. That means that all of the movement when the lens focuses is on the inside of the lens and nothing on the outside of the lens moves when the lens autofocuses. Your 18-55mm lens does not have an internal focus design and the front element and front barrel of the lens do move when the focus is ...


1

No, it is not. The DC designation on Sigma lenses means it's a DX lens. Their DG designation indicates an FX lens. Nearly all zoom lenses that start with 16-18mm at the wide end are crop lenses. Full frame walkaround zooms more typically start at 24mm or 28mm. The Sigma 28-300 DG lens is probably what you're looking for.


1

There is no way to see a Nikon's serial number on screen. However, the serial number is embedded in the EXIF data of photos taken by their DSLR, mirrorless, and bridge cameras (I'm not sure if the serial number is also in their compact cameras). You can extract this EXIF field (either Serial Number or Camera Serial Number) using the excellent exiftool ...


1

Your 18-55mm Nikon kit lens has 52mm threads (at least the current version of the Nikon 18-55mm kit lens does). This should be indicated on the front of the lens by a mark that looks something like this: Ø52 Your 55-250mm lens probably also has 52mm threads. This should be indicated by a mark on the front of the lens that looks like: Ø52. I have found some ...


1

First, prefer using a lens hood than a UV filter. You should not need a filter unless in the presence of salt water splashing, flying sand or similar. Second, a lens hood must match the lens, not just to account for its size but also its optical design. An 18-55mm and a 55-200mm may have the same diameter for the hood-mounting bayonet but a hood for the 55-...


1

The essence of your problem is the high differential in brightness between the subject and the background. And you are forcing yourself to use a tight aperture to get the depth of field you want. Using a higher focal length lens and backing farther away from the subject will help with depth of field, but I know of only three solutions to the light ...


1

If you don't want bokeh, the first step is to find the aperture your lens produces sharp results for the model and the landscape in the distance. Something between 8 and 11 might be OK. Depending on the light situation inside the tunnel you probably won't need full power output of your flash or none at all. This is something that really depends on the ...



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