I Dare You!

by peter_budo

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So, there a couple of basics to get out of the way first. Pentax DSLRs are just fine compared to Canon and Nikon; they're solidly built, have a decent but smaller following, and in fact often have better features at the same price level (because they need to, to compete). That's not to say blindly that "Pentax Is The Best!"; in fact, they're all great and ...


I started out much the same way, choosing Pentax DSLR because I already had Pentax lenses. While I'm still with Pentax (now on my 3rd: ist-D; K-10D and now K-5), to be honest I barely ever used my original lenses. Absolutely no offense intended but your existing lenses don't look anything particularly special, just as mine weren't - they look perfectly ...


I'm far from an expert on Pentax legacy lenses but the kit you have doesn't appear to be anything I would let drive future purchases. In other words, unless you have a strong personal tie to the equipment or are working with a very limited future budget, I would recommend not adding in those lenses to the equation. As for the statement "Pentax DSLRs aren't ...


This is another of those cases where the real answer is a lot more complicated than telling you a lens to buy. Fashion photography in particular is very strongly about staging. Even if you're using natural light, you will need to learn to understand and control that light. For many beginners, bad experience with cheap on-camera flash drives an aversion to ...


The kind of lenses you need depend a lot on what and how you like to shoot, and how limited you are by your budget. Basic features, like focal length, maximum aperture, and stabilization will be determined by your usage. See this basic guide to lenses for explanations of lens features and what they mean in practical terms. You may also want to see Lens ...


If I recall correctly, the auto/manual switch doesn't lock anything. Rather, in auto mode, it just allows your camera body to override the human operating the focus ring. That fact both the switch and the ring are seized implies the lens needs servicing.


That is a Canon FD mount lens. While you could find an adapter to mount it on a D3200, it's problematic, even for adapting onto a Canon dSLR. The main problem here is the registration distance. This is the distance that the lens is held by the mount away from the image plane (the sensor, in the case of a dSLR). This distance varies between mount systems, ...


It probably uses the electrical contacts in post-AI bodies to tell the camera the maximum aperture of the lens so the camera can calculate correct exposure. light levels are measured with the lens at max aperture, the camera needs to know what that is so it can work out how many stops to reduce aperture. Or to set speed in aperture-priority mode. The ...


Use an F-Mount AF-S or AF-I lens to get the most from your camera. The AF-I is the older version of the current AF-S. This means the lens has an internal auto-focus motor, which the D3200 needs if you want auto-focus. You can use other lenses, but with some kind of limitation depending on the lens. A good place to check if the lens is fully compatible is ...


Even with lossy compression the NEF file still contains a lot more information than a JPEG file. There is considerably more data per pixel in the NEF file. Even if the 14 bits color depth is reduced somewhat by the compression, it's still way more than the 8 bits of a JPEG image. You won't see much difference between the JPEG and the NEF in a direct ...


No. The same amount of light goes to the part of the sensor you are using with a DX lens on your FX body, so ISO is not impacted. When you use the DX lens you use less of the sensor, keeping the ISO / Shutter Speed / Aperture relationship unchanged.


Well, sort of. If you use only part of the sensor — as you do in DX crop mode — you are inherently gathering less light. (The light per area is the same — so your exposure settings are the same — but you have less area.) That means that if you print at the same size as you would an image from an FX lens, your print inherently has less light per area — or, to ...


I'm afraid what you are describing sounds like a physical problem with the camera or lens. There is a metal lever on the back of a D lens that closes the aperture, and it should move freely. It sounds like either the camera is not moving the lever properly, or that part of the lens mechanism is broken. You could troubleshoot the problem by testing the ...


The problem here is that the YN-560TX has no hotshoe; and the pass-through shoes on the RF-603/RF-603II, and RF-605 are not full TTL passthrough. The YN-622N does have full TTL passthrough, but won't trigger the YN-560IVs directly. So if you're sticking with the built-in radio receivers in the YN-560IVs, you have to stack triggers. If you want to go this ...


A "cookie-cutter" lens for beginning would be a 35/1.8 in my opinion. It is not really expensive and it is more versatile than a 50 mm lens on an APS-C sensor. Once you are comfortable, I'd say you should buy a zoom lens, in order to have more possibilities with the background of the model.


That is an FD lens which was made for Canon. You'll need to purchase an FD to F mount, which you should be able to find on ebay for less than $50. I'd advise you get one with glass so you can continue to focus to infinity.


The lenses you have all appear to use the original Pentax K-mount. Modern Pentax cameras lack the mechanical stop-down coupler the K-mount lenses were designed for, meaning the camera cannot detect the lens's aperture setting, limiting the camera's ability to perform auto-exposure. I believe all current-generation cameras have a "stop the lens down and ...

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