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I would recommend taking a look at the Nikon D800 manual which can be found online here. Page 207 of the manual describes the features of the D800 and time lapse photography. You also will want to pay particular notice to the tips of the bottom of page 209 where it describes what modes time-lapse does not work in. If you have a question beyond something ...

I have the ZE (Canon mount) version of this exact lens, and my friend has the Nikon ZF.2 version, so am in a good position to advise. It has both pro's and con's, and they must be considered carefully as this is no small outlay of change to purchase! Firstly, this lens is amazingly sharp when you get it right ... I say this because I've used it to create ...

Briefly summarizing solutions by cases following discussion with @PatFarrell in other answer (embellished with my own understanding): In dim environments flash will always freeze motion because the flash itself is around 1/1000th sec and most of the light collected during the exposure is from the flash. For fill flash in a brighter environment, if 1/60 is ...

The maximum sync speed is the speed where the whole sensor is exposed. At higher speeds, the two shutters form a slit as they cross the sensor. But most modern cameras have a max sync speed of 1/250 or so. 1/60 is really slow, I think my 40 year old Nikon F could do that. When you use a flash, its the light of the flash that stops action/motion. Most ...

The camera will display the image based on your existing picture control settings, but these settings don't specifically mean anything when dealing with the NEF after the fact. Lightroom has some presets (I don't use Aperture, so I can't speak to it) for raw development that apply a "start point" that are quite similar to the picture controls, but are not ...

It's a bit of a personal choice, but the Zeiss lenses all have a reputation for great quality. Before I'd spend this much money, I'd rent it. I just checked lensrental.com and they don't rent the 100 (although they do rent the 85), but Borrowlenses does have it. It will probably cost you $100 to rent (with shipping and insurance) but I think its money well ...

The LCD brightness is normally adjusted for ease of operation and visibility. It's meant for basic review to make sure you have the data, not for exposure correctness. There are two things you can do, though: Learn to ignore the appearance of the image and trust the histogram on review instead. Turn down the brightness of the LCD screen. It may be harder ...

That is normal, if your image also appears brighter when you load the jpeg thumbnail from the raw file. That's how mine reacts as well. It is because the in-camera settings clips more of the highlights and/or apply more gamma/brightness than your default setting in your raw software. The raw shows more accurately how you actually exposed the images and the ...

I'm not aware of any way to do this; my D300 works the same way. I usually switch to manual focus and either have a stand-in subject or set a small enough aperture to account for any misfocus. (Finding a stand-in subject is easy, though: use your camera bag, a rock, or even turn around to find anything else at roughly the same distance.)