Not Your Everyday Banana

by Bart Arondson

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36

Stars don't show up voluntarily on a photo. You need to tweak them a bit using photo editing tools on a computer. Best if you use RAW file format, and RAW-processing software to do this. JPEGs can be tweaked to show more stars, but with a lot less working room and result being of lesser quality. The likely JPEG image you get with the exposure settings you ...


20

Clarification: Firstly, you are correct in stating that sharpness is subjective, but the ability of a camera system to resolve small details can be measured, and this measurement is strongly related to the perceived sharpness. As you image black and white lines that get closer together they will eventually merge into a grey blob. By measuring how close ...


15

That is normal. The camera doesn't know how many images there is left, as images take up different amount of space depending on how much detail they contain. So the camera displays a guesstimate based on the free space on the card and an average size for images taken with your current settings. If you take images with large areas of sky or other smooth ...


14

As I understand it the "native" or "base" ISO is the sensitivity you get without amplifying the analogue signal you get from the sensor. It becomes important when the native ISO is higher than the lowest available on a camera (e.g. the base ISO is 140 and the lowest setting is 100). In this case the camera is likely to overexpose the image (as you can't ...


14

They don't test every unit. It isn't necessary. They test some units. Having a shutter count of zero is perfectly normal and not a concern. I have read anecdotal evidence that people who have owned dozens of DSLR cameras have always received cameras that have a shutter count of zero. I believe it to be few and far between that people receive units that have ...


13

You certainly knocked the diopter adjustement out of place. It is there to compensate for people who need eye-glasses. With your eye looking through the viewfinder, adjust the knob on the upper right side until you see what is in focus clearly sharp.


12

From what I gather, it appears to be yet another silly measurement for gear-heads to obsess over. Here is a pretty good overview that I found regarding both Native Iso and Base Iso. Obviously from the tone of my answer, I'm not really keen on such qualitative measurements. I suppose if you need a way to stack-rank compare bodies it might be valuable, but ...


12

If you already owned some Sony glass, you'd probably wanted to stay with Sony. As you don't want to stay with Sony, I assume that you don't own much of their glass yet. In this case you are still free to choose whatever brand you like. First choose the lenses you like. Think about what lenses you want to buy in two or three years. Buy a camera body and a ...


12

They lie. It does, it just not supposed to fire enough to matter. The flash is how it communicates with external units. You can get an SG-31R unit to block it and let the IR only through. Your other option is to ditch CLS and go with radio triggers - of which, if you search, we have various questions about.


12

The problem with the prime 35mm is that in order to frame your shot properly, you'll need good mobility. Which you may not always have in a busy and crowded car show. So I would give one point to the 18-200 for that: It'll let you frame your shots even if you can't get yourself at the exact right position you'd need with the 35. Then, the thing is: it's a ...


11

So, actually, the preflash is a two-way dialog between the control flash (in this case, built in to the D7000) and the remote units. There's a reverse-engineered )and several years old, so possibly slightly out of date) explanation of the protocol by Alson van der Meulen. (The site is offline but archived.) Basically, the control flash fires a minimal ...


11

The only sure thing I know is that it will use most of the whole card. The number has to be an estimate since the size of files is variable as you noted. They probably account for other issues too like fragmentation and prefer erring on the safe side. As you advance, the estimate usually gets better. You may notice that sometimes you take a shot and the ...


11

The limitation has to do with synchronizing the length of the exposure with the length of the flash burst. The flash does not go off immediately...it occurs a fraction of a moment after the shutter has opened, and the burst only lasts a fraction of the time the shutter is open. This is necessary to produce a proper exposure when using a full-powered flash ...


10

You need to set the shutter speed to Bulb, which can only be done in Manual mode (turn the mode dial to M). Once you've done that, and set the camera to use the remote, simply press the remote button once to open the shutter, then again to close it.


10

Simple answer to your main question is: The Dynamic-range of the sensors of current digital camera is not yet a match for the dynamic range of human eye's sensor (aka retina). Detailed answer of "how to bring it up" will bring all the techniques on the table. The majors are: Widest possible aperture on lens, if possible f/1.8 or f/1.4 Widest angle: To ...


9

If you're talking about the video screen on the back for live view, I believe the D7000 has the little spring loaded toggle switch. Its a small switch with a red dot button in the middle of it, towards the upper right hand corner of the screen. Rotate it clockwise. See the picture below with the "Lv" and the red dot on the button. Rotate that lever.


9

The look you are after is dependant on lighting and post processing rather than lenses. You want to shoot with soft but directional lighting so create strong textures within your image, directly sunlight through hazy cloud is good for this. As is the "magic hour". In post you need to blend the colour channels looking for the most contrasty mix. Then its a ...


9

No, cameras do not exhibit back-focusing issues. Lenses do not either. What exhibits back focusing issues is a particular camera and lens combination. This can happen with any camera that uses Phase-Detect Autofocus which includes all current DSLRs and some SLDs, notably those from Canon, Nikon and most from Sony. High-end cameras like the D7000 have ways ...


8

For up-close portraiture, I would really look into one or more prime lenses, rather than a zoom lens. Zoom lenses are more complex, optically, and the widest aperture you can usually find for a zoom lens is f/2.8, maybe f/2. The quality you get from a zoom lens will usually be lower than what you can get from a prime, and often for a higher cost. Prime ...


8

I would be willing to bet this is simply due to the camera changing modes back and forth between live view, actually exposing a photograph, and returning to live view. In live view, it sounds like it stops the aperture down to where it should be. When you take the shot, live view "exits", so the camera is set back to normal. That would reset the aperture ...


8

The "best" answer to your question is not going to provide a full tutorial of the D7000 and how to use it. I would recommend becoming familiar with basic photography techniques and skills, then simply reading the manual or the Magic Lantern guide on your specific model if you have any questions on the actual execution of the techniques you are interested ...


8

Nikon is puposefully vague about weather sealing. They say resistant to casual humidity in the manual. It doesn't sound likr much but I used their D3S in the rain without problems. The D7000 is one level below but I would expect it to work in the rain and snow. I have a Pentax K-5 and K-7 which the same class of camera and have rinsed both several time ...


8

That count is a conservative estimate of how many pictures you can fit in the remaining space on your card, based on the maximum file size you could see with a JPEG Large. Depending on the image data, your JPEG might end up compressing better, which would mean the count would go down by less than 1 picture.


7

The Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 G AF-S ED is a superb piece of kit, and priced accordingly. If your livelihood isn't dependant on getting absolutely optimal quality every time, you could consider a third-party alternative. I use a Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 Macro lens that's good enough 99% of the time, and costs less than half the price of the Nikon version. You should ...


7

I used that 80-200 for quite a few years, and currently use the first iteration of the the 70-200. I think the 80-200 is a steal! It's optically very good, built well, and focuses quickly on a capable body. I don't hesitate to recommend it in the least. (Regarding autofocus: on an N65 and D50 it's not slow to focus, but it's clearly not fast. On an F100, ...


7

There are several issues related to Phase Detection Auto Focus performance. You first must determine what the source of the problem is. It could be caused by one of several factors, or a combination of some or all of them. If you also have the problem when using the Contrast Detection AF in Live View, then the problem is somewhere else. Front/Back ...


6

Some things to check: Make sure custom setting e3, Flash cntrl for built-in flash (Menu > Custom Settings Menu > Bracketing/Flash > e3) is set to CMD↯ Under setting e3, Group A should be set to TTL or M. The SB-600 doesn't have a thyristor sensor, so A won't work. Make sure your compensation or power isn't set so low that you can't see much light. Under ...


6

The 70-200 isn't specifically better for DX cameras than the 80-200 -- it's probably a better lens, and it has AF-S and VR, which are both nice, but there's nothing about it that makes it a better fit for DX cameras. Your friend might be incorrectly assuming that the D7000 has no in-body focus motor (thus requiring AF-S lenses such as the 70-200 for ...


6

You can use continuous lights to shoot sports in a studio but you're going to have to up the ISO a lot to get a fast enough shutter speed. A better solution however is to use flash. The shortness of the flash duration when using a flashgun that uses trail trimming (where a transistor cuts power after a certain delay when lower power is required (thus giving ...



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