Butterfly

by Rodrigo

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2

The D40X is plenty good enough to learn from before splashing any cash. The main point is that it is free. You can learn exactly what limitations it has (if any) and use that as a basis to refine what you want from a camera system in regards to your subject matter.


2

Use ISO 100 and deliberately under-expose by two to three stops so that flash is the main source of light. Then you let the flash do all the work. Shutter speed in a sense becomes much less relevant because the picture is determined by the milisecond or so that the flash fires; thus, your shutter speed is the speed it takes for your flash to fire which is ...


2

Right... this question and its answers has been bothering me for a long, long time. It's actually more likely that the first linked shot ("Mallory", back-3/4-lit by a setting sun on the beach) was done in-camera with a D40 (or one of its 6 megapixel Nikon stablemates, the D100, D70 or D50) than with another DSLR. And you don't need anything special, ...


1

I have been a nikon D40 shooter for years and all of my portfolio pictures were shot with it. so I encourage u to get the striking 35mm 1.8 which is very fast and produces stunning images. I will be ordering my own next week.


1

I friend of mine found a solution in this site: The frequency is 38,4KHz


1

They are relative numbers intended to shift color temperature by perceptually uniform steps. There is an underlying unit called the Mired and each step corresponds to an undisclosed number of them. This is in contrast with fixed steps in the Kelvin scale which would not be perceptually uniform.


1

That's a warmth adjustment that lets you "fine tune" the white balance for aesthetics (as opposed to accuracy). You might find that a value of "+1" (a little warmer, approximately the same as an 81A filter) gives more pleasing (or healthier-looking) skin tones than the flat "0" setting does, or that a +2 or +3 makes autumn foliage look better. You may find ...



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