Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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19

Yes, it matters, a lot. There is little difference in image quality between cropped-sensor bodies these days and certainly a lot less compared to the difference in quality between a poor and a quality lens. Even between a D5100 and D7000 which costs much more, the quality difference is small. The same is true in Canon's line-up. Even more important, the ...


17

First I'd like to address the other comments. They are correct if you present yourself as a professional photographer. While it may sound "snooty," it's true that you can't properly do a wedding unless you have some serious glass. You should have a collection that gives you 17mm-200mm and f/2.8 along that entire range. Prime is always better, but a 17-55 ...


11

What you are going wrong is not giving the camera enough latitude. You fixed the aperture and ISO, so all the camera can do is set the shutter-speed and flash power. It must be not as low-light as you think because most often you would get an under-exposed image doing what you are doing. The camera has a shutter-speed range it can use with the flash. The ...


8

Cameras matter too, and at the bottom end there's a considerable difference between models. That advice largely starts to apply for film or more for cameras above the 1k mark, where the basic features are all included and you're differing on the quality of included systems - not simply if they're present. That said - the kit lens included with most of ...


8

The main issue with most wedding photography is the lack of available light. While some scenes may look bright, you will find there isn't enough light. For example, churches tend to be "dark." Assuming flash is not permitted during the ceremony, the 18-200mm lens likely won't pull in enough light to give you a great exposure. You will find most of your ...


8

Using the dpReview lens widget it appears the AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR is sharpest at f/8 for most focal lengths. There are some points in the zoom range that center sharpness is better at f/5.6 but usually at a much greater expense to edge sharpness. At DxO Mark, the results for the AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR are similar to those at ...


7

I prefer the 35mm. I actually have the d3100 and upgraded to the nikkor 35mm f/1.8 a few months ago. I will get the 50mm however, but use it only for portraiture (not the best, but still cheap, fast and compact). As an exercise try to shoot all day at 35mm with your kit lens. And then 50mm. You will know for sure what you need.


7

The question here doesn't — or shouldn't — come down to what we prefer, but rather what you want to use it for. These lenses (because of their different focal length) have a significantly different angle of view, which means that they serve different purposes. Eventually, you may find that you want both. On your APS-C Nikon, the 50mm lens acts as a short ...


6

Website D5000 D3100 Continuous Shooting D3100 3 frames per sec D5000's 4 frames per sec D5000 is better for continuous shooting Video Shooting D3100 shoots full HD (1080p) D5000 does not D3100 is better for video shot from the camera Resolution D3100 has a 14.2MP sensor (23.1 x 15.4 mm CMOS sensor) 4,608 x 3,072 [L] 3,456 x 2,304 [M] 2,304 x ...


6

Two easy ways. Turn your lens to Manual focus. Nearly every lens has some kind of switch to toggle between modes of focus. In camera, while in video mode.. press the "i" button, go down to where it says "AF-F" (the fourth option down on your menu, under the ISO setting) and change to "MF" or "AF-S"


6

Despite the D90 being a full two years older than the D3100 I think it still holds up against the newer model. The D90 does exposure and white balance bracketing, not achievable with the D3100. Also the screen on the D90 is superior, with 920,000 dot resolution vs the 230,000 of the D3100. One area the D90 falls down is in video - if you want to use ...


6

You have almost certainly set a monochrome "picture control". This is probably showing as an "MC" towards the lower-right of the LCD - if it is, adjust this back to SD ("standard"). (That's for a camera running in English; if you're in a different language, the abbreviations may be different, but the principle remains the same).


5

Firstly, the classic advice 'invest in lenses not bodies' is somewhat out of date these days; it's really a leftover from the days of film. With film cameras, the body is little more than a light-proof box holding the film, so you were better off investing in really good glass. Nowadays, however, the body has much more to do with the final image - the ...


5

If you observed the Extreme Pro is in fact faster than the Extreme than that does answer your question (it answers the faster part, we already know the cheaper part). If you have both cards you can always run a test, just set the camera to burst mode and hold the shutter button - this will tell you the maximum burst length for each card, or, if you don't ...


5

Both of these lenses are plenty good enough; sure, there are differences, but particularly as a beginner, you won't notice them. I would recommend the 18-105 because the flexibility of a bit more length is of great value to beginners, because it helps you figure out what focal lengths you prefer.


5

I don't have a D3100, but everything I can find says that the electronic rangefinder is a manual focus aid. When the camera is in manual focus mode and you turn on the rangefinder, the exposure meter will indicate which way to turn the lens to focus. So you could turn it on when you want some help focusing manually.


5

An indirect answer: the type of battery being used makes a difference. Lithium ion batteries are standard because they provide very consistent high performance for both the entirety of the charge and the life of the battery. They will last a long time, are meant to be recharged frequently, and perform well in many conditions. Cost is their downside. If ...


5

Consider this half an answer or an answer to half your question :) Most cameras on the market use custom batteries. This allows the camera manufacturer to provide a precise and reliable experience for the user. The downside is increased cost and inconvenience since options are limited. AA batteries are great and Pentax still makes DSLRs that use AAs and ...


5

Most tethering softwares that list support for Nikon cameras do not include the D3xxx series. Most of the Dx, Dxx, and some of the D7xxx and D5xxx bodies are at least partially supported. The D3100's firmware or hardware may limit this capability. If all you want to do is view the output of your camera without controlling it, you just need to connect it to ...


4

That's a newer-technology (AF-S) lens and newer cameras, so they're all compatible. Ninon SLR Camera to Lens Compatibility. The lens will work "well" on any of those cameras. They all have the same sensor size (DX), so you'll get the same field of view / effective focal length. Which is the "best" camera for you will depend mostly on other factors. Nikon ...


4

I bought the 18-105 with my D90, and in retrospect, I wish I hadn't. I got the 50mm f1.8 soon after, and the image quality is leaps and bounds above the 18-105. So now, whenever I am taking something serious (portraits, etc), I use it. I then got the 35mm f2, which gives me a wider angle with better image quality. Now, whenever I need a wider angle than ...


4

It could be a problem with your memory card. Some cameras allow you to take a picture without a memory card and review it for a short time. Try to see if you can do it and see if the image looks ok. Then try it with your memory card on. If your image looks corrupted then the problem is with the memory card. If not you can atleast rule out the memory card ...


4

The manual describes child mode like this: Use for snapshots of children. Clothing and background details are vividly rendered, while skin tones remain soft and natural. So, while it probably affects the exposure program as well, from Nikon's own words the main concern seems to be with color rendering. Whatever effect this might have have on ...


4

I'd say the goal should be to provide a wide range learning tools. What you're really missing is a fast lens. With the 18-55 and 55-200 you'll really be limited to very 'constructed' shots if you want to shot something that displays good subject isolation - like a classical portrait (subject in focus and background blurred way out). Something like the ...


4

It's completely normal under artificial lighting, when frame rate of your camera matches closely flickering rate of the light source (usually determined by frequency of electrical network). If the electricity frequency is n times higher, there will be n lines on screen. When the frequency matches exactly, dark/bright phases of light flickering will always ...


4

For a beginner I'd say 4 megapixels is neither here nor there. The image quality of both cameras will be remarkably similar, and in fact the biggest differences will be ergonomics and price. You're probably right to trust your instincts and go for the Nikon, maybe spend the $200 you've saved on a 50mm f/1.8 lens and a tripod. Before you do this it's worth ...


4

I really wouldn't call that an upgrade - the D3100 is technically a superior camera - faster processor, higher pixel count, better sensor tech, the only things in the (quite old) D90 are the AF motor and the screen resolution. So assuming you dont want to use older lenses without internal AF drive, then yes, this would be a downgrade. ...


4

I would say don't bother. It won't appear on your photographs and will only bother you if you focus on it (pardon the pun). if it is really bad then give it a puff with a rocket blower, if that fails then send it to a proper repair shop otherwise I feel you're in danger of causing damage.


4

Is Autofocus working at all? Obvious question first. Is the lens attempting to focus at all? If you switch the lens to manual focus, move the focus to infinity (or to closest focus), then switch back to autofocus and point at something and half-press, does the lens attempt to focus? Need to know if it's "hunting", or just not moving at all. Autofocus ...


4

You could try digiCamControl. One of its advanced features is Live View via computer display. However, the D3100 may not support that feature. The Nikon SDK allows you to capture Live View images as JPGs. So a program could be written to loop, capture and display those JPGS. Someone has written a C# wrapper for the SDK which gives an example of this ...



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