Hot answers tagged nikon-d3000
Honestly I would not expect any filters to help compared to not using one, since they add a flat reflection surface. However, some filters add more flare than others. A filter that is multi-coated or - even better- super multi-coated adds less reflections and therefore less flare. To reduce flare if the sun is not shining directly into your lens, try a ...
I would strongly recommend getting a new card. The danger to the camera, ultimately, is that the card could get stuck in the slot because of the card separating. While I would imagine that Nikon repair could sort that out, it may cost you a lot more than a new card to have it done because such a situation would not be under warranty.
To avoid blown highlights you can: use your camera's exposure compensation to set -1 or -2 stops of exposure. use spot metering on a lighter part of the image and use exposure-lock before re-framing. use matrix metering (sometimes helps) alter the positioning of subject and/or camera to make better use of available light use supplementary lighting to ...
No. Extension tubes that offer AF capability simply mean they have contacts that allow for electronic communication between the body and the lens. They do not have autofocus motors in them or add autofocus capability to a body/lens combination that doesn't have it without the extension tubes.
Shooting tethered seems to work very similarly to shooting with an SD card: the camera stores pictures in its internal buffer before transferring them to PC, and therefore can shoot as fast as the buffer can handle. (At least, I haven't noticed any slowness.) However, don't expect to be able to shoot RAW photos indefinitely at 3 frames per second: your USB ...
By googling around the web I stumbled upon DIY Photo Bits' Camera Control. From version 3.0 and upwards it supports a time lapse feature. According to the compatibility list the D3000 should work with this software on Windows 7 and Vista.
No, there's no such option on D3000. If you're worried about photos getting deleted by yourself or somebody else, you could try getting your hands on a non-rewritable SD card, like Sandisk WORM or Toshiba Write-Once. Note that you can't reuse those cards after they get full, and you could still lose your pictures if somebody has access to your camera and ...
I've had a look in the manual (http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/noprint/D3000_ENnoprint.pdf (page 100), and it makes no mention of making this the default mode. Sorry...
If you still have images on the card you need to retrieve, plug your camera into the computer via USB. Then remove the card, thank it for its service and locate a trashcan. Not only is the card a potential danger to your camera, both in circuitry and hardware, it will fail on you sometime soon and all your photos will be lost. I would also keep on eye on ...
This probably isn't the answer that you want to hear, but it sounds like it might be, as they say in technical terms, busted. Best to get it off to Nikon's repair folks.
The zoom on this lens (as with most DSLR lenses) is manual, so there's no settings to control. Sounds like it's broken -- possibly a small bit of grit in the mechanism. You could probably get it repaired cheaply (and it'd probably be done under warranty for free, as long as you haven't been rolling around in the sand dunes with it, and of course if your ...
If you're crafty, you can make something that uses your computer's serial port (or get a USB adapter for a missing port). There are lots of instructions around the web. This website goes into great detail: http://www.beskeen.com/projects/dslr_serial/dslr_serial.shtml Stark Labs offers a software-based intervalometer that can control these USB/Serial ...
Well, if you have already cleaned the contacts (how have you cleaned them? I would have adviced ethanol on a smooth and clean material...), you have almost no choice left: you need to bring your camera body and optics back to the shop you bought them to or to refer to the Nikon customers service. Sorry...
I will just address your first question here - your second question is off-topic. Your camera will already tell you if the image is in focus: a green circle/dot will appear in the bottom left corner of the viewfinder. If you want more precision, you can turn on the rangefinder option in the settings menu that will turn the exposure meter (in P, S, and A ...
As the question you've linked to says, this is a limitation of the camera. A workaround would be to flip the lens into manual focus after you get what you want with the focus-and-recompose method. That's an annoying extra step, but at least it will work.
Yes the camera will AF if you have it in a mode that will AF when you press the button. It's a remote button. That's all. I found with my remote it more annoying that if would AF so put it manual mode so it would not focus hunt. But I was not take bird photos but photos at night where there was not enough light to AF.
Sadly, you are (probably — see end note) out of luck, at least unless you do so with hacking or spend some money on different gear. That's because the Sigma flashes are TTL-only, and cannot be triggered by shorting the center pin in the standard way. I know, that sounds so stupid that it's hard to believe, but there it is. So, what can you do? Well, first,...
According to "Nikon D3000 for Dummies" that I managed to hit through Google books, in manual mode the viewfinder always displays the exposure meter. You can try this link to see what they say, but I'm not sure if the link to it will work.
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