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There are many nooks and crannies in a modern dslr mirror box to hold (and hide) dust. If it's just dust - not fluid - I use a strong blower (like the VisibleDust Hurricane Blower) with the body held lens mount down. As I compress the blower with a quick, strong squeeze, I quickly (but carefully) move the body up, away from the blower in as smooth a motion ...

I think I may have your answer. On the D300 and D700, if you are using lenses that have an aperture ring LV is disabled unless a certain menu setting (f7 on a D300, f9 on a D700) is set the correct way ("Sub-command dial OK"). Your 300mm has an aperture ring; your 24-85mm does not. See: ...

Now that I know for sure... :) The ML-3 can do bulb mode. Set the camera to bulb and the remote to continuous (C) and as long as you hold the button (and maintain IR connection) the shutter should remain open. See this Photography Life article for some info. For completeness, the ML-L3 IR remote (the other I asked you about) can also do bulb on supported ...

I would assume that you are correct in that dust has "worked its way in" to the camera and is now dispersing itself around the innards!. You might consider having it professionally cleaned out. I have a D300 and use it regularly semi-professionally, several times a week, regularly changing lenses - it is usually kept in a bag. I have never needed to clean ...

I found infrared remotes to be too slow for my taste, and bought a cheap YongNuo RF-602 sender/receiver pair (less than $50) for my nikon. It is not perfect, but way better than any infrared remote I ever owned: no need to point the remote to the cam, the delay is shorter, works over bigger distance. I even bought extra cables so I can use it with any of my ...

When shooting indoor sports there are many factors, including high ISO sensitivity, that come into play. Can the camera keep up with the action? There is nothing more frustrating than seeing a key moment in the contest occur while waiting for your full buffer to unload enough data to the memory card to get another shot in. Buffer depth is just as important ...

If your brother already has an f/2.8 lens, then an updated body might give more benefit. If he's shooting with an f/4 lens, then harder to say. Edit: from your comment, he does have f2.8 glass, so f/2 isn't going to give him significant benefit. There is no clear upgrade path for the D300. A D400 has been rumoured for some time, but there seems to be a ...

I bought a Phottix Cleon II Wireless Remote N8 for £30 on eBay, from Hong Kong Supplies about 6 months ago. I see they're listing them for about $50 right now, and another seller has them for $35. When I was looking I found that the reviews were positive and it has been a brilliant little unit. Much, much better than the little infra-red unit I used with my ...

maybe more than you need, but this is a very good wireless remote, about £80 or $100:- http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm?page=dslrremotecontrols&id=60&pId=60 good for time lapse and bulb-mode, very flexible

this remote:- http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm?page=dslrremotecontrols&id=60&pId=60 from the faq "When using the timer functionalities, is there a limit on the number of photographs I can take? You can set the transmitter function N (number of shots) to "--". This then allows an indefinite amount of shots (above 99)."

My understanding is that the only way to do it is to take more shots at the interval which, obviously, isn't what you're looking for. Anyways, according to Ken Rockwell, the formula is '# of intervals' x 'shots @ interval' = 'total shots' where the total shot value is calculated by camera. The # of intervals seems to be capped at 999.