Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

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8

The AF-ON button can be used as the sole means of activating focus on cameras with configurable buttons. There are many occasions where activating AF at the time the shutter button is activated is NOT desired, and in fact can result in less than optimal camera performance. Separating AF and shutter is of particular importance and usefulness when using ...


7

There are many nooks and crannies in a modern dslr mirror box to hold (and hide) dust. If it's just dust - not fluid - I use a strong blower (like the VisibleDust Hurricane Blower) with the body held lens mount down. As I compress the blower with a quick, strong squeeze, I quickly (but carefully) move the body up, away from the blower in as smooth a motion ...


5

I would assume that you are correct in that dust has "worked its way in" to the camera and is now dispersing itself around the innards!. You might consider having it professionally cleaned out. I have a D300 and use it regularly semi-professionally, several times a week, regularly changing lenses - it is usually kept in a bag. I have never needed to clean ...


5

They're different generations and different 'levels'. Your friend's is a pro level and the D3100 is an entry level. Your's may carry a slight edge in resolution and high ISO, but in every other way thats important, the D300 is almost certainly better.


5

What do you mean better? It's rather subjective. If you want to compare the price: D300 is more expensive. Here you can compare the two cameras.


5

I think I may have your answer. On the D300 and D700, if you are using lenses that have an aperture ring LV is disabled unless a certain menu setting (f7 on a D300, f9 on a D700) is set the correct way ("Sub-command dial OK"). Your 300mm has an aperture ring; your 24-85mm does not. See: ...


4

Now that I know for sure... :) The ML-3 can do bulb mode. Set the camera to bulb and the remote to continuous (C) and as long as you hold the button (and maintain IR connection) the shutter should remain open. See this Photography Life article for some info. For completeness, the ML-L3 IR remote (the other I asked you about) can also do bulb on supported ...


4

I found infrared remotes to be too slow for my taste, and bought a cheap YongNuo RF-602 sender/receiver pair (less than $50) for my nikon. It is not perfect, but way better than any infrared remote I ever owned: no need to point the remote to the cam, the delay is shorter, works over bigger distance. I even bought extra cables so I can use it with any of my ...


3

The two main reasons are cost and the lack of demand for the feature from the primary purchasers of low end DSLR cameras. Every additional button increases the manufacturing cost of a camera. In addition to the button and the electrical switch it activates there is also the additional consideration of some sort of seal between the button and the body. Even ...


2

The first step I would take if you are not sure what all you have changed is to restore the factory default settings. Note that with the D300 it takes several operations to restore all settings to default. Two Button Reset Hold the Quality and the +/- button down simultaneously for over two seconds. (See page 182 of the D300 User Manual) Reset Shooting ...


2

Control which is the reason for most professional features. This gives you a chance to decide when the camera focuses. Most cameras will disable autofocus on the half-press of the shutter-release after when AF-On is pressed. The same is often done by recomposing and half-pressing but that usually tied exposure to focus. Advanced users may want to often ...


2

I bought a Phottix Cleon II Wireless Remote N8 for £30 on eBay, from Hong Kong Supplies about 6 months ago. I see they're listing them for about $50 right now, and another seller has them for $35. When I was looking I found that the reviews were positive and it has been a brilliant little unit. Much, much better than the little infra-red unit I used with my ...


2

maybe more than you need, but this is a very good wireless remote, about £80 or $100:- http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm?page=dslrremotecontrols&id=60&pId=60 good for time lapse and bulb-mode, very flexible


2

How about using an intervalometer?


2

When shooting indoor sports there are many factors, including high ISO sensitivity, that come into play. Can the camera keep up with the action? There is nothing more frustrating than seeing a key moment in the contest occur while waiting for your full buffer to unload enough data to the memory card to get another shot in. Buffer depth is just as important ...


2

If your brother already has an f/2.8 lens, then an updated body might give more benefit. If he's shooting with an f/4 lens, then harder to say. Edit: from your comment, he does have f2.8 glass, so f/2 isn't going to give him significant benefit. There is no clear upgrade path for the D300. A D400 has been rumoured for some time, but there seems to be a ...


1

The upgrade from Nikon D300 should be to a used nikon D700 to help with low light indoor sports. I own a Nikon D300 with a fast lens f1.8 and had a chance to use Nikon D700, let me tell you that indoor basketball pictures on D700 at iso 3200 with f2.8 were much cleaner without noise and on my D300 at iso 3200 with f2.8 they were.....well not so clean. Nikon ...


1

My understanding is that the only way to do it is to take more shots at the interval which, obviously, isn't what you're looking for. Anyways, according to Ken Rockwell, the formula is '# of intervals' x 'shots @ interval' = 'total shots' where the total shot value is calculated by camera. The # of intervals seems to be capped at 999.


1

this remote:- http://www.hahnel.ie/index.cfm?page=dslrremotecontrols&id=60&pId=60 from the faq "When using the timer functionalities, is there a limit on the number of photographs I can take? You can set the transmitter function N (number of shots) to "--". This then allows an indefinite amount of shots (above 99)."



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