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To get shadows with sharp edges, you need hard light. The smaller and the further away a light source is, the "harder" is its light. The sun is a good example for that. Technically, the rays of hard light are close to being parallel. No matter how hard the light is, the edge of the shadow can still be blurry. This is because there's a distance between the ...


At full resolution, the line gets terrible. Perhaps I've missed something, but it sounds like you want to make the line between the light and dark parts of the wall as sharp as possible, more like the lights on the right hand side of this image than the ones on the left: In that case, as long as your camera is properly focussed in the first place, ...


It looks like you were using a flash and a high speed shutter because it appears you caught the shutter in motion (thus the large black wall). To get a well focused shot, if possible, pre-focus with the light on. Focus has a hard time operating in the dark, so providing extra light is the easiest way to allow it to focus and then remove the light before ...


Put your camera on a tripod, focus manually on the wall, and set aperture (probably a higher number, like f/11 to get deep DoF) and time manually, too. This way, you'll get consistent results over multiple shots.


Is it possible? It should be. The GM1 is a m4/3 and while that's not large it's a lot better than what's in a compact or a phone. A quick search om Flickr turned up this one. The settings say F3.2, 30sec and ISO 800. You should be able to match that. The standard recipe would be: use a tripod enable saving as RAW use manual focus use manual ...


-4C for 4 hours, do not worry at all just do it. No warming no external packs. -4 is not that cold but to be extra careful if any of your gear takes AA batteries use Lithium AAs. Your camera's Lithium battery will be fine. I was out a couple of weekends ago for 6 hours between -10C and -4C and the only thing I tried to keep warm was my fingers. No ...


I think the camera itself will enjoy the cold. I recall discussions many years ago concerning using freezing temperatures to get better quality from consumer grade sensors, and the issues to solve involved condensation and batteries. I also recall discussions about winter sports, which is almost the same as your situation. Let the camera be ambient ...


If you have a spare car battery, something like this LiPo battery warmer would be perfect (Assuming you can get one large enough for your kit)


chemical heating pouches, rubber-banned to the camera, especially the battery department. The big need is to keep the battery warm so it doesn't lose effectiveness in the cold. Better (and less of a hack) would be to use an external power source like a car battery or some larger power source because you'll likely find that the camera battery will struggle ...

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