Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
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The moon, and stars and the milky way etc, will require quite different lenses. If you want to take images of the stars, you need a wide, fast (very low F-stop, generally lower then F/2.8) lens. You can get passable images of the milky way with a kit 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 however it is not great because you'll have to raise your ISO to compensate for a ...


Unlike many older manual lenses, especially primes, that have a hard stop at a lens' infinity focus setting, most autofocus lenses do not. Instead they allow for the focus mechanism to be turned past infinity. There are several reasons why this is so, but the main one is to avoid the focus motor slamming against a hard stop when focusing the lens at ...


15 second exposure with a 18mm lense with the focus cranked all the way back When you say "cranked all the way back" it sounds like you just turned the focus ring to the far limit. That's not the right way to focus at infinity because the focus adjustment for most lenses goes past infinity. You need to focus either with autofocus, or by looking through ...


This is caused by the camera performing a so-called "long exposure noise reduction", which means that after the exposure a dark frame exposure of the same duration is made and then the two images are subtracted. You can opt to shut off long exposure noise reduction and instead take only a few dark frame exposures yourself.


You're not going to get "color accurate" white balance at night. There's no way to make every object in the scene look the same color it would be if viewed under full spectrum daylight. This is because night scenes typically have a myriad of varying light sources in them. Those various sources are all different temperatures and have different amounts of the ...


Short answer: Shoot raw (if the camera can do that) and find the best WB setting with your image software. Reasons: Good night photos have their atmosphere because of their strong colors, not because of an accurate white balance. You have to test some night shots with seemingly boring-looking light and try intentionally "wrong" white balances. A really ...


There exists software that automatically detects stars and planets in your astrophotography pictures. The technique is called plate solving, and they use a scale and rotation invariant hashing algorithm. Examples are: uniMap: a free/opensource astronomy software, [...] mainly developed to do the plate-solving (automated detection and sky catalog ...


Got some good timelapse footage of the northern lights at Whitehorse and also during the day. Thanks for the tips. I ended up using the CamDo outdoor kit (timelapse and power supply) so i could run it all night (continuous) and at 1min intervals over the day. Night Lapse Settings Interval - Continuous Megapixels - 12MP Wide Spot Meter - OFF Shutter - 30 ...


Internal JPEG engine is not too good in producing smooth output in many cameras and may do very badly in certain cases, this is not specific to Nikon and may happen with many cameras (including mine which produces unberable JPEG output despite being quite pricey). Desktop RAW editor is your way to go. P.S. The RAW file is not available anymore.


The reason of those flares to appear is optical diffusion and internal refraction which is almost fine with normally observed objects but is obvious if the object is a bright spot light source - it affects all objects equally but it is only visible on high contrast transitions. The reason of them being asymmetrical is coma. The reason of them being coloured ...

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