Incense

by Bart Arondson

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12

I would say TIFF is probably the best format. JPEG 2000, like JPEG, is still a lossy compressed format when you really try to save space (the lossless version can compress a bit, but not nearly as much as the lossy form, and some forms of the "lossless" wavelet compression still can't fully reproduce the exact original image.) When scanning in an original ...


12

I started with (color) negative film then switched to slide film for one specific reason: I wanted control over my pictures. With negatives, unless you develop and print yourself (which is a convoluted process for color film), when you drop your film at the local shop, you have almost no control over the look of your prints (exposure, contrast). And with ...


8

When I made the 'final' switch from film to digital several years ago, here's the procedure I went through with all my slides and negatives (more than 50,000 frames in total): Digitized every single slide and negative at the highest level of quality available at the time. My intention from the start was to hopefully never to have to break into the physical ...


6

Long-term degradation of film depends on a few different factors including the type of material they were stored in, along with temperature and humidity of the storage environment. That said, from the four types of film most people are exposed to (pun intended), B&W negative and Kodachrome slide film are perhaps the least affected by age. B&W film ...


6

Reversal film has a smaller exposure latitude than negative film, so it's harder to expose correctly. Also, as there is an extra step from negative to print, a negative that is slightly under- or overexposed can be corrected. The extra step of printing negative images can also be used to control the contrast of the photo, by using papers with different ...


6

Most labs I've seen that do black and white processing call it generally D-76 processing, but they could use any number of other chemicals. HP5 is about a standard a b&w film as you'll find, so if the lab claims they do black and white processing, they'll be able to do HP5. Ilford's site has a PDF for all the development solutions and times that they ...


5

The first hit I get on google for Tri-X 400 Pan tells me: KODAK TRI-X Pan Film has been replaced by KODAK PROFESSIONAL TRI-X 400 Film / 400TX. The second hit is about Pro Tri-X 400, and that says: Compared to KODAK TRI-X Pan and KODAK TRI-X Pan Professional Film, the newer TRI-X 400 and 320 Films may have a slightly different retouching ...


4

There are massive differences in film developers & techniques. You have a large topic to cover, my friend. Back in the day, film development was the most important step in getting good prints. It's also really freaking hard. If you are serious about learning about film development, then at some point you should start trying the various Pyro formulas. ...


4

Looks like photo.net has a really complete answer: Why do negatives need an orange mask? The simple answer is "impure dyes." This is generally true of all chromogenic photographic materials, where the dye molecules are made of a color coupler that is built into the emulsion, combined with the by-product of the development of silver by a color developing ...


4

Not sure of your location, so can't really offer any specific stores/services, but developing/printing a roll of film is typically around $10-15 USD at a typical (chain/non-specialist-photo-lab) in the US. I'll bet you could negotiate a cheaper price with the manager of a specific store for 100 rolls at once. Prices usually include developing, so it may be ...


3

I've been trying to do a simple conversion of a black and white negative, and Tone Curves in LightRoom 4 seemed almost impossible to invert. I've known how to do this for years with Photoshop, but this morning found it a complete pain in LightRoom 4 until I figured it out. Google and YouTube were no help The answer: Go to Tone Curve. Below the box with the ...


3

You can get a good overview of film sleeve properties from filmguard.com The key precautions are to store your films in a cool, dark, dry place. One way of doing this is to store your film in a sealed plastic box containing a layer of desiccant such as silica gel. Rent a safety deposit box at your bank and store the box there. Good banks have climate ...


3

Haven't used it myself but have you seen Ansel Adams mention of it in 'The Negative'? The method he used was: Soak neg thoroughly in water Re-fix in plain hypo solution for "several minutes" 5-10 mins in Selenium/Kodak HCA solution mixed 1:2 (constant agitation) HCA Wash This produced about a one zone density increase in the highlights.


3

If you are using Lightroom 4 or greater, you have access to full RGB curves. These are fully featured curves, just like you might find in Photoshop, so you should be able to apply an inverse color negative reversing curve to the RGB curves, then switch back to the standard tone curve and have the ability to edit your inverted negative with your standard ...


2

if you use ilford it's better to use ilford deveolper.there are different ilford developer for diff. use. but for normal work ID11 is excellent and for push film they offer ILFORD MICROPHEN .... you can see ilford developer here : http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/producttype.asp?n=6&t=Film+Developers


2

Once you invert the image, you'll have a blue or blue/green cast. If you can find an image with a known neutral (gray) spot, use the gray eyedropper in the level tool on that spot and it should clear away the color cast. I'm not sure how to then save that adjustment to apply to your other images, but they should be correctable with that same adjustment. ...


2

For the file format choose either TIFF or JPEG with an high quality settings. JPEG is lossy, but you are scanning and archiving not editing and resaving - so if you find the quality settings that gives you acceptable results on JPEG they will stay acceptable for ever - there is no data loss while the files are on-disk only if you edit and re-save them. ...


2

This kind of issue is usually given by some dust in the calibration area in the top of scanner plate. A first try you can do to confirm it is to try to clean carefully that part and see if there is some change in the stripes pattern. It shouldn't be cable related because the data are digitally transmitted and loosing of data didn't produce this effect but ...


1

I scan my film with a DSLR and invert it by going to "Tone Curves" and then clicking the bottom left point on the curve and drag it to the top, and then click the point in the top-right corner and drag it to the bottom-right. This should give you a rough draft with semi-accurate colors and then you can fix the colors with white balance. Here is an image ...


1

If you are using Ilford film, like HP5, it's better use Ilford developer like Ilfosol or Id11. I recommend ID11: it results in fine grain and better contrast, and if you are doing color, use Ilford XP2


1

To go for a slightly hobbyist related method: I've got all my slides in A4 sized archival slide wallets, in archival folders (labelled by year), but then they are just in a normal box along with some silica gel in my office. I have had all of the important slides scanned commercially (50MB files) and these are in my normal back up routine, I've not had to ...


1

Experimenting with a wide range of developers is one of the really fun things about film photography. But it's good to have a base of several reliable, versatile developers to compare results against and to rely on when you have to get it right the first time. I have used Ilfosol 3, and had pretty good results as a general-purpose developer, but personally, ...


1

One of the key disadvantages of slide & transparency film is the ability to casually browse the results. My father preferred slide film for many years, for its quality, and as a result, many of his family photos are locked away in boxes of slides, unseen for years, while his prints are available for browsing in an album at any time.



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