Autumn...

Autumn...

by Linus Kleen

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12

In this particular case, I'd probably tackle it with lots of cold coffee, a big roll of paper towels, and a very big box of those cookies. Couple that with some real patience, a partner or long cable release, very fast shutter speeds (given it is outdoors, it'll be the shutter that freezes the moment), and several exposures in sequence. Putting those ...


10

A sufficiently fast shutter would do it, but that also may very well not be a satalite photo. Google maps also uses arial photos and the detail of the plane in the photo seems too high and the plane too large in comparison to the ground for it to be taken from space. My guess is that the photo was taken from another plane, probably moving in a similar ...


8

Do the math. Let's say the plane is moving at 200 MPH, which is a plausible value right after takeoff or right before landing. Note that the flaps are extended, so one of these is the case. 200 MPH is 89 m/s. There is some blur. I'd say about 250 mm or less motion of the plane during the picture is about the limit that picture is showing us. That would ...


7

They're not gone completely, they are there with blur, but the effect a moving object has on the overall exposure is so small that we can't see it any more. You could simulate this effect in Photoshop or other editing tools. Create an image with a black background and put a white dot or mark in the centre and apply increasing amounts of the motion blur ...


6

The camera records light reflected or emitted by the scene being photographed. While the shutter is kept open during exposure, the camera accumulates light hitting the sensor as per the selected sensitivity and aperture. Now, thinking about the camera recording light, you can consider what happens to different parts of the scene: A stationary object: The ...


5

For high speed work I would look into the Paul C Buff Einstein. From the guy behind Alienbees, this strobe was specifically designed for high speed work. Unlike most monolites utilizes tail-trimming whereby power to the bulb is cut after a certain duration to reduce power. This effectively means the lower the power the shorter the flash duration. Other ...


3

It is my understanding that the more experienced photographers in this area use sound triggers such as the Nero Trigger, TriggerTrap, or PhotoTrigger. They typically are just simple microcontrollers that can be triggered by a variety of different things, such as sound. They also allow you to setup a delay typically so you can capture the perfect moment that ...


2

As AJ Henderson has said, a fast enough shutterspeed is the answer. To put some numbers onto it - shooting at an airfield, if you have a King Air 350 coming in to land, you want your shutter to be around 1/320s or slower for propeller spin in the image, as otherwise you freeze the propeller in mid air. A propeller also spins quite quickly so freezing a ...


2

You might actually find that a pack-and-head system will do a better job. Most of the major brands (Elinchrom, Profoto, etc.) offer fat, dual-path tube and twin-tube heads (I've even seen a quad-tube head, but not lately), and when they are paired with the lowest-output packs that will do the job, you can approach speedlight macro flash durations. (If both A ...



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