It's a bird

by Vian Esterhuizen

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6

Use a flash with rear curtain sync and a long shutter speed. The long shutter blurs the background and the subject. However, at the end of the exposure, the rear curtain synced flash fires, which essentially adds a second exposure on top. The flash is significantly brighter compared to the ambient light, but due to its limited reach, it only hits the ...


5

Would this be considered bokeh or does a term even exist for this? I agree with Romeo Ninov's comment: this is plain old motion blur. You could call it "light trails" to make it clear that it's something you're doing on purpose, but photos of light trails are generally created by having the lights move rather than the camera. Bokeh refers to the way ...


5

AJ is correct here. What you are seeing is the result of motion blur as both the satellite and the aircraft are in motion relative to the ground (the desired target of the photo). Those pretty pictures you see in Google Earth and elsewhere are the result of red, green, and blue filtered images combined into what is called a "Multispectral" image (MSI), named ...


3

I would go with "motion blur trails", or "motion blur light trails". Light trails in general are the lines produced when an object moves during a long exposure — see How to shoot light trail photos with iPhone? and also When should you use a normal flash vs a second-curtain flash? In this case, of course, the object that moves is the camera, which from a ...


2

You can use a flash along with a long exposure to show both a clear image at some point in the action and blur during the smash. Take advantage of settings for flash timing at shutter open or close, and try it with stronger and weaker flash settings (or use a handkerchief over the flash). It's hard to recommend an exact shutter speed, though my guess is ...


2

The camera needs a specific amount of light to take a properly exposed picture. How much light hits the sensor is tied to two items: shutter speed and aperture. Shutter speed defines how long light hits the sensor and aperture defines how much light hits per unit of time. If you want to avoid blurry images you have to set a fast shutter speed as you've ...


1

I'd go with slow sync flash (i.e., flash and a slow shutter speed). 2nd-curtain so that you get follow-streaks, not leading streaks, and possibly stroboscopic mode (where the flash gives off regular period bursts at a given frequency, in Hz) to get individual moments through the movement. Rehearse, figure out what ambient you want vs. the flash. You may ...



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