Not Your Everyday Banana

by Bart Arondson

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44

The Technique Stable Tripod is a must if you want to be able to compose. If you want exposures over 30 seconds, use Bulb mode, as most of the cameras only meter up to 30 seconds. Use small apertures, low ISO and add ND filters if there is too much light. You probably want your sensor to be clean also as small apertures will render the dust relatively ...


30

Any speed will give you something. It will render the photo differently. So, the question should not be how slow can I take the photo? but how slow do I want to take the photo? Some ideas: If you want to freeze the sweat flying off the boxer's face when he takes a hit, I suggest 1/2000s or faster. If you want to freeze the boxer's body and leave the ...


26

Stars move. Like with any other movement, what we care about is how much they move on the sensor during exposure: A movement that occurs only within a single pixel is not a movement the sensor can capture, i.e. the movement appears frozen. But when movement takes a point across several pixels during the exposure, it will be visible as movement blur, in this ...


19

The most common approach to taking great flowing water pictures is to use a long exposure. This allows the "soft, dreamy flow" of water to be captured as you have probably seen in many photos. Achieving a long exposure may require extra equipment, depending on how the scene is lit. Long Exposures To achieve a long exposure, you will need to reduce the ...


19

While you can get some freezing with speeds around 1/300 (see the first photo below), I would recommend going with faster shutter speeds if you want to take shots of water drops falling or moving away from wet dogs. One thing to keep in mind is that most flashes have a limit on their sync speed, which means that the use of flash will limit your fastest ...


17

The most important body features are: The max ISO levels (and the noise levels at high ISO) Low light shooting is much easier at high ISO settings, but many lower end cameras have trouble with noise as you increase the iso. A good indication of the high ISO performance can be found at www.dxomark.com by looking at their "Sports (ISO)" rating for the ...


15

Yes, you can tell what went wrong: out of focus (entire frame) This can be a problem because of close-focus, i.e., the lens and camera never did find something to lock onto before you fired and was focusing ahead of everything in the scene. Sometimes this is because your lens focuses too slow, sometimes it's because there wasn't enough light to provide ...


11

The short answer is: use a long shutter speed. To control this, put your camera into Shutter Priority mode (indicated by a "S" on the dial" and adjust the speed to a relatively long time - perhaps a half a second, a whole second, or perhaps longer. The longer answer for when it gets tricky: You might find that during the daytime, things are so bright that ...


10

There are different ways that you can shoot moving water: Freezing it, at about 1/100 s. A little movement, at about 1/10 s. Much movement, at about 1 s. Foggy, at about 10 s. The best time for each effect of course varies a bit depending on the scene, and the focal length. A polarising filter has great effect on water, as light that bounces off water ...


10

That depends on how fast the object is moving, and how far away it is. From that you can calculate how fast it's image is moving across the film/sensor plane. It all comes down to having a shutter speed that is so fast that the image of the object doesn't have time to move across too many picture elements (film grains or sensor pixels). So, for objects at ...


10

To extend the shutter speed in daylight use the following ... Lowest ISO possible to slow down the sensor sensitivity Smallest possible aperture to reduce light coming in (use aperture priority) Use Neutral Density (ND) filters that reduce the amount of light entering the lens without changing the colour balance. I use ND8 which slows down the exposure by ...


10

A sufficiently fast shutter would do it, but that also may very well not be a satalite photo. Google maps also uses arial photos and the detail of the plane in the photo seems too high and the plane too large in comparison to the ground for it to be taken from space. My guess is that the photo was taken from another plane, probably moving in a similar ...


9

The freezing of motion has more to do with the duration of the light than it does with the speed of a shutter. Obviously, with a continuous source of light, the only way to reduce the duration of it is with your shutter, but when you do control the light, that's a very different story. The technique I use to freeze the motion of something like water ...


9

The rule of 600 states that to 'eliminate' star trails the exposure time in seconds should be 600 divided by the focal length of the taking lens. 20mm lens could go to 30 seconds, 300mm lens could go to 2 seconds. Of course (like any motion blur) you will never eliminate star trails- you merely reduce the trail to an acceptable level for a given ...


9

This was done using a long exposure (possibly 1/4 second) with a flash at the start of the shot, this illuminates and freezes the cookies and then you see them drop too. Most DSLR's offer this as "rear flash" (flash at the end) or "front flash" (flash first) This does appear to have been done with an off-camera flash/strobe, so could either be the result ...


8

In general, use a smaller aperture. If that will not give you slow enough shutter speeds, neutral density filters (ND-filters) will give you slower shutter speeds without altering colors and such in the scene. They come in different strengths and can be combined. If you go shopping for an ND filter, make sure not to mix up graduated ND-filters with regular ...


8

Out of curiosity, are you using any kind of Servo AF? When photographing moving subjects, particularly those that may move closer/farther away while you pan and frame the shot, you should be using an AF mode that continually focuses. (I think the D90 calls such a mode AF-C.) Usually when using such a mode, the camera will lock focus onto something, then try ...


8

I've done a bit of dance photography, albeit under stage lights. A 50 f/1.4 (or f/1.8) is a very good idea as light is very limited. Shoot wide open and don't be afraid to push your ISO as high as it goes! I don't find the shallow depth of field a problem really, if you're shooting full length it's enough to get a whole person in focus on a crop camera. I ...


8

Do the math. Let's say the plane is moving at 200 MPH, which is a plausible value right after takeoff or right before landing. Note that the flaps are extended, so one of these is the case. 200 MPH is 89 m/s. There is some blur. I'd say about 250 mm or less motion of the plane during the picture is about the limit that picture is showing us. That would ...


7

In case this is useful to anyone else, I found that Image Analyzer 1.33 from MeeSoft is a freeware claiming to do "Deconvolution for out-of-focus and motion blur compensation".


7

In Photoshop, you can access various blurs via the Blur sub-menu in Filters menu. Motion Blur will ask for an angle and an intensity and will blur the entire image (or selection) along that angle making it look like the camera exposed for motion. Radial blur will ask for a point and an intensity and will blur the pixels radially away from that point as if ...


7

Just a guess, but this is probably done with a strobe and a slow shutter speed. The strobe illuminates for a very short time, so everything appears stop-motion for the duration of the strobe. The rest of the time the shutter is open, much less light comes from the scene, but will have motion blur. The tricky in this is to balance the continuous lighting ...


6

If you want the flowy dreamy look, try to use a longer shutter speed and a tripod It depends on the water flow rate. In the sun, you may need to use a ND filter as stopping down will get you into diffraction-limited range. For some waterfalls (particularly violent ones), you may want the opposite: a very fast shutter speed. You will need to experiment ...


6

The single biggest feature will be strong high ISO performance. There are a number of cameras that fit that, much will depend on your budget. In general, the full-frame dSLR options will perform very well at high ISO, but in the more budget realm, the current king of the heap seems to be the Pentax K-x. After that, you need fast lenses, the wider the ...


6

Unfortunately, due to a lack of a manual or shutter priority mode on the S70, it may be difficult to capture motion in the way you describe. If there are no 'scene' modes available that provide a long shutter speed your best bet may be to mount the camera on a tripod, disable the flash & set the ISO to its lowest (if possible) then shoot in a low light ...


6

The other two answers cover most of it, but don't forget to set the ISO to as low a value as possible - 100 at most. This will allow you to have a longer exposure.


6

Really Right Stuff Camera Rotation Device CRD-87 is a device designed for such use with lens without a collar. Its components are also available separately.


6

If you don't understand aperture and shutter speed, and don't want to learn, and the other answers are already too technical for you, then there are a few simple things you can try. Your camera has several "Scene" modes. Sports mode - this will anticipate that you are shooting something moving, so it will select as fast a shutter speed as possible to ...


6

The effect you are going for or story you want to tell with your photograph will play a big part in what shutter speed/depth of field you use. If you are photographing a Formula 1 race you might want to show the cars as a blur against the stands. In that case you want a slower shutter speed. If you want to highlight the loneliness of a batsman at the ...



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