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This technique is called Selective color. Sometimes, you select a point (in this case, somewhere on the CD-R case), and the region around that point that is close enough to the same color retains its color, while the rest of the picture becomes black and white. Other times, as you mention, you can select a color and a tolerance, or a range of colors, and ...

Actual sepia toning of silver/gelatin prints works by replacing some or all of the silver with a substance that doesn't react as readily to oxygen (tarnish), so it made prints last longer. It also lends a warmer (browner/yellower) tone to the image, which can be very pleasing for some subjects (particularly people, where a stark black-and-white or a ...

In traditional terms, it breaks down to two major areas: toning and alternative processes. There were two big reasons for toning. One was simply to create something that was more "organic" than simple black-and-white, in much the same way that sepia or sienna Conté crayons were often preferred to charcoal or graphite for finished drawings. Almost all of the ...

I have to preface this by saying that lith film is almost exclusively used where paper would be, as something another image is printed upon (except, I assume, in some types of process photography), so there would be very few "straight" photographers who would be able to give you an answer that relates to EVs and rated sensitivity. Whether we're talking about ...

It's not clear why you are asking, but the question strongly hints what you are trying to do isn't the way to solve the problem. It's been many years since I last worked with lith film. I have used it for exposure masks for other photolithographic processes like making circuit boards and silk screening T shirts. In all cases I experimented with the ...

The filter you're thinking of is a Wratten #90. They used to come as gels, so you'd have to get a gel holder or just hold it and operate the camera one-handed. (Or just hold it in front of your face and don't bother with the camera.) Both of your cameras have a mode that desaturates the image before storage, which would let you chimp it on the LCD after ...

Higher tech solutions :-): It requires extra equipment and cost, but any camera that provides live view (or even post-view) video output can be used to drive an external monitor of your choice. You could use this facility to either drive a monochrome display or a colour display that is able to desaturate the image. I have not (yet) done this with a DSLR ...