Hot answers tagged microscopy
You can't do it with the 100-150mm macro lens exactly. If you look at the images again you can see the fibres within threads that the snowflake is sat upon and that's some extreme magnification going on there well outside the parameters of a normal macro lens. What the author of the images in the article has done is created a reverse mount setup. Normally ...
Always use as much data as you can. It's actually easier to reduce noise when there's more information to begin with. (Reducing resolution is a brute-force noise removal tool, throwing away both noise and signal.) If you're concerned about the size final image, reduce the resolution at that point.
If you have a SLR, it's as simple as pulling one of the microscope eyepieces, removing the SLR lens, and pointing the camera lens-box at the eyepiece hole. You generally need to hold the camera about 1-2" from where the eyepiece sits. Nikon D80 AF sensor You lose contrast from light-leakage, but it works pretty well.
The depth of field is a function of the relationship between the image magnification and the diaphragm opening (aperture). You will have to reduce the aperture at that magnification or reduce the magnification at that aperture. Changing the lens focal length to affect d.o.f. from a given subject-camera distance is changing the image magnification, in ...
Scopetronix carries a whole line of eyepieces and adapters to allow afocal photography for telescopes and microscopes. I have used their stuff for my telescope assembly for planetary work where the subject is relatively small from the entire field. Their website used to work better back when it wasn't modern, but now it's a mess with poorly designed css and ...
The depth of field is based on viewing distance and magnification. You can reduce the size of the aperture through which the light travels, but this would have to be done using different optics in the microscope itself. I don't think most microscopes have a depth of field adjustment available. Focus stacking is the other option which basically works by ...
You can buy adapters for just about any DSLR mount that will allow you to resolve a microscopic image onto a camera sensor. They are pretty easy to find on just about any microscope store's website. Expect to spend anywhere from $40 to $400 depending on the quality you want. They most commonly go in place of the eyepiece of the microscope.
I don't have too much to add, but I have some limited experience with focus stacking on microscopes that I can share. I've done focus stacking on an SEM, the following image is a stack of only two images. I wish I had a third to fill in the blur in the middle. Image of a flower I took with a scanning electron microscope. The near foreground and the 'sky' ...
The easiest way that I have tried is simply to put a point and shoot camera into macro mode, and hold the camera up to the lens of the microscope. The view isn't the greatest, but it works in a pinch. If you are unfamiliar with Macro mode, usually it is the symbol of a flower or leaf on the camera, and it allows(or forces) the camera to focus on objects ...
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