Shadowy Daisy

Shadowy Daisy
by damned-truths

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Easiest fix Only shoot the bird when the sun is at your back, not behind the bird. Given how redtails circle where I am, I sometimes just wait as I draw a bead and follow them around the circle, to where the light is falling on them nicely. However. This will be rarer than backlit opportunities, because a hunting hawk doesn't like to fly into the light ...


It's NOT (only) the exposure. This situation calls for more than the correct exposure which you will discover if you are able to bracket your exposures to select the one with the subject optimally exposed. No matter which one you choose from among the series, it will not show the plumage correctly. Why? The bird you illustrate against a clear blue sky has ...


Warning: I have not tried this and don't know if it'll really help much. Either going full manual, or setting an Auto mode to overexpose by a stop may help. Then, consider adding both a polarizing filter and a yellow filter to darken the sky background as much as possible without significantly mucking with the spectrum from the bird.


Well, in order to get good results, you'll have to make the plunge into non-auto settings. I'd recommend Manual mode. The problem you're running into here is that you are pointing your camera at a bird in the sky, which is bright. Camera meters are set up to try and make every exposure a uniform grey in terms of brightness. So if you point your camera at ...


I have three of the best light meters ever made, and none of them are $600. Of course, my opinion entirely, but they are solid, dependable meters, and are not expensive, like the new fancy sekonic meters that cost more than a very decent lens. The three meters I use are the Gossen Luna Pro-F (standard 9v battery), a Sekonic L-398A, and a Pentax Digital ...


I guess I would try a test environment where the flash is contributing 100% (or nearly) of the light instead of 60%. Also, another simple experiment of setting the flash correctly based on guide number and distance (fstop = GN / distance) and taking a test shot, then significantly increasing the power and trying another test shot at the same fstop should ...


The subject in your photo is moving and is NOT in focus ? but the exposure seems to be correct for his location. You could switch to manual focus mode, choose how the camera sets exposure or where in the scene you want to point the camera for setting the exposure, recompose and manually focus on the subject. The dynamic range of light is to wide for the ...

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