by Jakub

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Use graduated neutral density filters, as osullic mentioned above, it is the major tool to control contrast. Sometimes polarizing filters can help too. There are certain rather expensive filters that add controlled flare reducing the contrast, too - I love them, but they demand certain experience in postprocessing to get the natural look back. Set your ...


Estimate the sum of the two sides of the angle you-ceiling-subject and set the distance manually in flash (distance can be set in flash (speedlite 430 ex) when head is in front pointing position)


You could experiment with a graduated neutral-density filter which can partially "block" the light from the sky to bring the entire scene within the dynamic range capabilities of the camera sensor / film.


Your case is typical problem with high contrast/dynamic range situation. As no sensor can reproduce the dynamic range of the human eye, you can use several ways to create image which somehow represent your view of the light. The first way is to expose based on the metering of sky. This will help you not to lose details in bright areas and still have some ...


Probably the fastest and easiest way to cover the bases would be to do automatic exposure bracketing. But if you want to be precise, I'd say either use an external light meter, or get really really good/fast with the Sunny 16 rule, and learning to use your histogram to judge exposure. The Sunny 16 rule is a good way to approximate for exposure. In clear, ...

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