Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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37

Since there are 3 important variables here: aperture, shutter speed and ISO, I would Google for Exposure Triangle Cheat Sheet for example. Here are a few: Manual Mode Cheat Sheet (Muddyboots Photography Blog) Exposure Chart Cheat Sheet (Flickr) My Exposure Triangle Cheat Sheet (glark.org) My Exposure Triangle Cheat Sheet (glark.org) link has been ...


37

I typically use aperture priority as well, but I also work a fair bit in manual mode. The typical case for me is if I am in an environment where the lighting situation is quite static, but the subject may have a lot of contrast. Here I switch to manual mode and shoot a few test frames to pinpoint the exposure (typically I try to spot meter on a white ...


31

The biggest benefit I can think of is consistency between shots. This is normally not much of an issue, but when you are wanting to capture the changing light in a scene for time lapse or do panorama stitching the consistency becomes really important.


29

Following the format you present of "if you want to get this result, you'll need to use this function", here are a couple ideas. I'll try to add to this list in the next day or so, if I think of more -- or perhaps I could be convinced to make this a community wiki answer. Anyway, thoughts: If you want to do some light-painting, you'll have to find and ...


21

It is simply too dark for the camera to focus. And by default it will refuse to take the shot unless it has focused. There are some possible workarounds: - Some cameras can be forced to take the shot when you press the button, no matter what. The inevitable result is an unsharp photo. I don't suppose that this is what you want. I assume that you are using ...


21

Yes, professionals do use auto mode. Professional paparazzi use auto mode almost exclusively and will sometimes even tape up the controls on the camera to prevent any settings being accidentally altered. You don't have to know how to shoot manual to make money out of photography, if for example you know which restaurants which celebrities go to... Other ...


20

Do whatever gives you the best results, don't worry about what may or may not be acceptable to others. I'd say shooting events fully manual is rare these days, though you might want to explore the aperture-priority and shutter-priority modes, each of which are very good for certain situations. I'd also investigate auto-ISO if your camera offers it. My ...


19

There's really only one thing you need to memorize and it's easy: a list of standard f-stops in graduations of one f-stop (1, 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, 32, 45, 64, 90). Once you notice that every other one doubles (with some rounding starting at f/11), you only need to remember the first two, 1 and 1.4. (Usually you can see this sequence printed ...


18

What are the basic calculations you're referring to? Other than doubling/having shutter speed or ISO when I open/close the aperture a stop I don't find myself doing any, I just fiddle with the settings 'till the image looks right on the LCD. After a while you get a feel for what settings work in what circumstances and the process becomes much quicker. ...


18

Shooting manual mode doesn't make you a better photographer, understanding what all the settings effectively do will. Your camera has three basic settings: Aperture: Use this to control depth of field (DoF). This is usually the most important setting to most photographers, as it influences both subject matter and composition. You're not going to be taking ...


18

This is normal because in the day time, the sky is usually the brightest part of the scene. If you lower the exposure by applying negative exposure compensation, your sky will get darker and more blue. This will cause other elements in the image to darken and some may end under-exposed. This is because a change in exposure is global. What you need is to ...


17

It sounds like you don't understand exposure. If you change to an all manual mode, then its expecting you to adjust shutter speed, aperture, and ISO all in concert - 'manually'. If you set a faster shutter speed, you'll need to raise your ISO or open your aperture more to adjust for the fact that you're letting in less light. The same with a lower shutter ...


16

Re. your answer - you don't have to have the focus set to Manual just because you're in Manual mode, but autofocus systems generally don't work in the dark. Therefore the camera will fail to focus and refuse to take a picture. By switching to manual you remove that problem. Switching to Auto mode may allow autofocus because it turns the AF illuminator on. ...


15

Applying manual controls allows one more freedom to enhance, manipulate and master applied photographic applications. By understanding the interaction of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed, photography — identified as "drawing with light" — can be utilized to its fullest potential. Full creativity with the use of manual control can then be used to ...


14

Obviously, there was still way too much light getting onto your sensor despite the tiny aperture. Methods to avoid that: First, make sure your ISO setting is as low as possible. Use Tv (shutter priority) mode instead of manual, then choose the shutter speed you want and let the camera adjust everything else to get normal exposure. If that is not possible ...


14

Your question is based upon an assumption that is not entirely correct: that you can change just about everything in any shot you take. You can't. Things such as depth of field and shutter speed are set at the time the picture is taken. If, for example, the shutter speed is too slow to freeze a moving subject there is absolutely nothing you can do in post ...


14

I gather from the aspect ratios (top one is 3:2, bottom one is 4:3), that the top image is the dSLR one, and the bottom image is the one from your TZ40. And at web sizes, while there's some improvement in image quality with the dSLR, it's not a huge amount better, and some could be compensated for with post-processing, rather than using ...


12

Aperture priority can be ideal for a walkaround mode, especially when combined with exposure compensation. I only tend to flip to manual mode when I'm shooting a lot with the same lighting, or rapidly changing lighting -- so things like food photography (where dark meat or glistening glazes can trick the metering), or fireworks where the automatic metering ...


12

There are many "truths" in photography, and you'll hear them a lot, variations of: The best camera you have is the one you have on you A great camera does not a great photographer make etc etc. (more variations of how the equipment does not matter) To a large extend, the feelings above are true. HOWEVER, I believe that to be a great photographer you must ...


12

I use a program mode the majority of the time that I am not in a studio. An example of that would be aperture priority mode - where I get to set the aperture and ISO that stays consistent, and my camera is allowed to determine the shutter speed to keep the exposure proper. Full Auto mode, which many entry level DSLR cameras have, is great if you hand your ...


11

You're not going to get better shots simply by switching to a DSLR. In fact, they may get noticeably worse as you start fiddling with the settings. What you (and everyone else) really need is practice and study. This graph is meant to be funny, but it's also frighteningly true. As for a DSLR: it really comes down to how much money you want to spend, ...


11

Manual mode can give you more consistent metering when you're taking several photos in a scene. For example, suppose that you're photographing a person whose body is fully illuminated but whose face is partly in shade. If you take a full-body image and then a head and shoulders portrait, the metering could end up different because the percentage of the frame ...


10

You might want to try borrowing or renting a camera first. Even the cheapest DSLR will cost several hundred dollars, which can be a lot of money if you aren't sure it is right for you. That being said, DSLRs now are a lot better than they were in pure auto mode, which can make it pretty easy to jump right in. I went from a P&S to a DSLR not all that ...


10

"Auto" can mean a wide range of things. Most DSLRs offer a "full auto" facility that tends to manage shutter speed, aperture, ISO and more. But most of the modes on a DSLR that are other than absolute manual mode offer a substantial automated component. And even "Manual" may have auto features lurking in the shadows (literally in some cases). Your friends ...


10

Sadly for Nikon users, the F mount has one of the longest registers ever. (Mechanically) adapting a lens designed for a certain system to one with a shorter register is easy: just manufacture an extension tube of the correct length. The ability of controlling the lens will be mostly lost but this is less of an issue with lenses with mechanical aperture ...


10

Here's a secret: nobody actually cares what mode you were shooting in so long as the quality is good. (Equally, nobody cares what gear you're using either). Therefore if you get good quality shots in program mode, full auto or anything else, go for it. That said, program mode does take away a significant amount of your artistic control - did you want the ...


10

This is actually a characteristic of the leaf shutter used in Fuji's X10/X20/X30 and X100 cameras. The leaf shutter can only travel so quickly. The wider the aperture is open, the slower the shutter speed has to be to accommodate the operation speed of the leaf shutter. It's a mechanical limit. In M and shutter priority modes, Fuji is allowing the faster ...


9

If your subjects stay the same but your background changes in luminosity greatly. I was shooting sports indoor with a door to the outside open, so my subjects would have gotten real dark if they went by of the door. Also, if you want to maintain a certain shutter speed (freeze action) and aperture (for subject isolation), and you don't have TAv mode or ...


9

Basically, you expose for the ambient ("existing") light however you want, and the flash will automagically provide the rest of the light needed for a proper exposure (for values of "proper" as decided by the vagaries of your camera's metering system). Your flash photo in effect consists of two separate exposures; one that sucks in the ambient light in the ...


9

I'll give you one example of when I've used manual, and see if it makes sense. A while back I was shooting my step-son's "little league" basketball games, which were held indoors. The gym lighting provided reasonably even (if not very bright) illumination, but things like glare on the floor or dark color uniforms kept fooling the camera's light meter into ...



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