Hot answers tagged macintosh
Personally I much prefer Lightroom, though I suspect you'll find this argument goes on as long as the Mac vs PC or Canon vs Nikon debates. Lightroom is more expensive but has far more features, and (surprisingly) seems easier to use, but that may just be because I'm more used to it. The main advantage of Aperture is that it integrates with your other iLife ...
Given that the reason for the question is price, I encourage you to rethink this constraint. How much is your time worth? You can get excellent post-processing software for little money compared to a lens. For example, Bibble can do everything above in the same application (might need a plugin for the watermark) and it costs only $100 for the lite version. ...
To be honest I just use preview if I want a quick run through of images
Your best bet would be to give both apps a try - as far as I know you can download trials for both software, so you can see which one is better fitting for your work.
I have two suggestions: Apple has refurbished machines in their online store, that's a good way to get a discounted machine. You could take a look at Lightroom, it's the main competitor to Aperture, and has similar functionality, but it runs on Windows as well.
I know you asked for free stuff, however given that I whole-heartedly agree with Reid about how valuable your time is. Have you looked into Adobe Photoshop Elements 8? This is a powerful little tool that offers everything your looking for, in a single package, for a very cheap price (relatively speaking.) For $80, you can have a nice, professional tool ...
The software is the same. As you note, you won't have physical media. In theory this shouldn't be a problem since the App Store will allow you to install it on any of your OS X computers.
Hugin might be your answer. At least it is available for the Mac and handles stacking of images (also into EXR-format), masking and distortion-correction of images. It is not per se meant for astrophotography, so you would have to know what to do. As for automation (of the aligning) - I put each of my Stacks/Stitches into separate directories and just let a ...
You can rotate losslessly with NConvert which is available for many platforms including the Mac. It is a command line tool, which is invoked similarly to this: nconvert -jpegtrans rot90 DSCF0001.JPG On a Mac, the syntax may be different, I don't know but if you can invoke a command line program from your Automator, then you're probably set. BTW, XnView ...
As above, I'd suggest looking into Adobe Lightroom, which is a sort-of equivalent Photo process-management-library-workflow program. As a student, you'd qualify for a discount from Adobe on it, and it's also worth remembering that you can use the Apple store for education (or Higher Education for an even bigger saving) which will reduce the cost further if ...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that whether a JPEG could be rotated losslessly depended on the exact dimensions. The reason being that a JPEG image is divided up into a series of 16x16 pixel blocks (or 8x8 without chroma-subsampling), each of which can be rotated individually without having to re-encode. The top left corner of an ...
I shoot Canon, so my workflow will be slightly different... but I use: Picasa to upload/organize Digital Photo Professional (Canon only) for most cropping/simple adjustment. Gimp for almost all the other processing.
In my opinion, the biggest advantage of using Lightroom is seamlessly moving between PC and Mac (which I often do). Aperture has a lot of great features, but in the end I preferred Lightroom.
Instead of hunting down perfect solution with bunch of different software Why don't you: Install Lightroom on both systems (call Adobe about PC/MAC user licensing, not exactly sure if they will let you use your license on different OS, download trial versions for each OS and use your serial number on both, see if that works, if not call and complain) ...
I recommend Lightroom. Wait. Doesn't Lightroom use a Library? Yes, Lightroom uses a Library, but perhaps not in the way you think. Lightroom actually uses the directory structure you define, and will use it happily. In fact, it won't even touch your photos. It will publish to the directories as well. You can browse, tweak and yes, delete photos within your ...
You should take a look at RawTherapee. It used to be a proprietary application, but the author changed that a few years ago and now it is available under the GPL. You have to compile it yourself to run it on Mac OS X, but I guess that is part of the FOSS experience.
Preview is a good option, but you should consider Quick Look, which offers almost everything you want, is built-in, and is available all the time. It’s dead simple: Hit Command-A to select all the images in a folder, then Command-Option-Space to bring Quick Look up in full-screen mode. If you want to zoom in more, you can use the zoom feature which is ...
Luminance HDR is available for Mac as well as for other platforms. It is free and open source. The definition of "better" and "quality" may vary, but it doesn't cost money to try. Flickr group with the samples
gPhoto can be installed on a Mac (it may be difficult a bit). It supports Canon G10.
The issue you are going to face is similar to any database-based solution: the issue is ownership over a file and if two systems are trying to change a file at the same time. This can often corrupt a database for systems that are not designed with this concurrency in mind, and most systems are not designed with this in mind. As mentioned above, there are ...
First I want to make sure that the importance of proper hardware calibration is understood. Your eyes are not perfect(mine especially) and you can certainly give it a shot to determine the best brightness, tint, gamma, etc. but you are not going to be nearly as spot on as a dedicated piece of hardware. In reading you will find that as the display gets older, ...
Safe disconnect To safely disconnect your camera just wait until the red light of the memory card has stopped blinking and then pull out the USB cord. The light is positioned in the lower right corner next to the trash button. When it doesn't blink it means that no read/write operations are taking place. Explore files through Finder By removing the SD ...
I resolved the issue by lowering the backlight setting that is added in the firmware update version from August 28, 2013. However, Seiki's directions on that download page are incorrect, instead, this is how you may update the firmware: Download the .zip file and extract the install.img file to a freshly formatted (FAT32) USB thumbdrive. (On a Mac, be ...
Thank you for all the answers here, I really appreciate it. I found a different solution that I wanted to share. Jpegtran does lossless transforms of jpeg images. I discovered it when I installed ImageMagick and it is part of the tool set installed. To use, type: jpegtran -rot 90 DSC_0276.jpg > DSC_0276-rot.jpg Then you can trash the original file. ...
I've been looking for a similar kind of an app recently and the best light-weight software I could find was Xee. It really fills the gap between the Quick Look and Capture One - the other image viewers I'm frequently using. You could find more alternatives from the alternativeto.net website. I spotted Xee there.
yes, that memory usage is normal converting to jpeg. I"m finding 4Gig works fine. A few suggestions. upgrade your drive to a 7200 drive. you're probably seeing I/O delays and a faster drive will help. preferences->file handling, set the cache to a larger value. I use 25 gig. optimize your catalog (under the file menu) every so often. system ...
Memory usage is fine, as long as you have enough system memory to cover it. Once you start running out of memory, then you'll notice performance problems. Switching between images in LR3 is a bit slow; I think there are enough users who report this issue that an update to lightroom will address it. You've probably nailed it, the 5400 RPM hdd is your ...
Get a SD-Card reader (or use the one in your MacBook pro if you have one) Have you tried "Image Capture" – there's some settings that will set default behavior of what happens when you connect the camera. Have you tried iPhoto?
The GIMP will load such files and allows such large images to be created though you'll need huge amounts of memory to get things done within a sensible timeframe - unsurprisingly, it seems most 'everyday' packages are not optimised for images of such enormous dimensions. Creating a 40,000 x 26,667 pixel test image by resizing a smaller source picture took a ...
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