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it's definitely the filter, even my 30 dollar hoya does this in low light, it really screwed up some pics before.


While I'm not sure I'd class either camera as "pro", the RX-100 has two big advantages over the Coolpix P340 for night-time photography. Its sensor is about four times larger, so it's high iso noise performance and dynamic range are liable to be better, and the RX-100 has bulb mode (i.e., there's no limit to how long you can leave the shutter open). Thee ...


Besides the fact that the Nikon one is thinner, lighter and cheaper, it basically doesn't have any advantage over the RX100 (mark 1, 2 or 3). With much larger sensor, RX100 can have much better performance in low light, higher dynamic range, lower noise at high ISO. With the same wide f/1.8 aperture at wide angle, RX100 with its larger sensor will have a ...


The main contributing factor when it comes to low-light performance is sensor size. The RX100 (Original, II or III) all use a 1" sensor which is larger than the 1/1.7" one used on the Nikon P340. You can see the difference in actual size by comparing both of these on my site. Just like at the rectangle in the row with the Sensor Area heading.


Aside from opening up the aperture to its maximum (bearing in mind the depth of field issues this will bring) you can increase the exposure time if you steady the camera against a solid object. For example press the camera against a column or rest it on a pew. It's surprising the length of exposure you can get away with without suffering camera shake.


The only settings that make shooting in a dark environment easy is the one you change at a light switch. You can't change the basics of physics. To develop a photo, a certain number of photons have to reach your sensor. Either you give them a bigger opening (faster lens) which requires a better lens and also reduces depth of field, you increase the ...


I had a must-have photo that was too dark or grainy for the same reasons. I went with a stylized image using a photo as a starting point. This was pre-digital: T-max 400, pushed to 800. That is a high-quality B&W film for you youngsters.


In addition to the points mattdm has made, you can shoot a few pictures of the same scene in rapid succession. Unlike when using a tripod, you won't be able to achieve perfect alignment of the pictures; without a tripod, the shifts will be rather large and then the fact that there will be a parallax will prevent you from perfectly aligning the pictures. But ...


Camera settings are never going to make this easy. Photographs need light to work, and while modern sensors are actually quite sensitive, they can't live up to our perceptions, because our brains take the dark, noisy image from our eyes and subconsciously make a mental model where the imperfections aren't noticed. You don't mention what lens you are using, ...


So, it depends on what you're trying to replicate, here. The G16 is a small-sensor camera, but a fairly nice one, and you can get good results in good conditions, especially at "web sizes" as shown on photo-sharing sites. One thing I want to note to start is that the perfectly straight vertical lines strongly suggest that this photo was shot in RAW and had ...


There is a formula, it's called the exposure equation. However, I doubt it will be helpful. In general, you should not try to replicate someone else's settings unless you have exactly the same lighting conditions. I would suggest you simply trust your meter, at least as a starting point. If the exposure as per the meter is not good, then you can apply a ...


The 75-300 without Image Stabilization is a big no. However if you cannot get in front seats, its the only option you have. Bump up the ISO and shoot at around 1/100 at the very least. Pan the subjects.


If the exposure is correct, then it is not an exposure problem. The problem is that you are working in difficult conditions, with low light and people moving. There is really no good solution. You either push the ISO until you have an acceptable aperture (for depth of field) and shutter speed (for avoiding motion blur), or you use the flash. For these kind ...

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