Serene Life

by garik

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You can use also the Nikon ML-L3 infrared remote for exposures up to 30 minutes. A press on the button opens the shutter and a second one closes it, see page 73 of the manual. The 30 seconds mentioned on page 81 are the maximum delay between the first press of the button on the remote and the opening of the shutter when the remote control mode is remote ...


No, digital exposure is the same, the shutter is opened for a length of time and the sensor records whatever light strikes its surface over that time, just like film. There is some technical information here: What is the structure of a photosite? One difference between digital and film is that digital doesn't suffer from reciprocity failure.


For that I use a Hähnel Combi TF wireless remote. Bulb mode, and hold the button on the remote. Releasing the button does the click...


It may not possible to do what you want with the D7000 and a wireless remote. The D7000 User Manual is inconclusive on this point. Page 73 indicates you can take exposures up to 30 minutes with the remote, but page 81 seems to say that when in Remote release mode the shutter will close after thirty seconds or when you press the button again, whichever occurs ...


The best way to focus at infinity is by using a so-called Bahtinov mask or a Hartmann Mask. A problem you will have to deal with is tripod motion during the long exposure. Also, if you photograph the sky, the rotation of the Earth will cause the stars to become small trails. It is almost impossible to take perfectly sharp pictures without using remote ...


If you were using Shutter-Priority exposure mode, you would have wanted to set your EV compensation down -1 or -2 stops, depending on how overexposed your shot was. Even better would be to set your camera to Manual exposure mode, pick the shutter speed you want, and manual dial your aperture down (higher f/number) until you achieve the desired exposure ...


I think you should buy a graduated ND filter, use a longer exposure, and try again, with a tripod of course.


Narrower aperture and ND filter are your options. You could control the aperture in your lens or camera. Being a beginner you could try the cheaper ND filters available in eBay which comes from China which costs nothing much compared to the real cokin P square filters. Which comes with a bunch of filters and ring adapter. Quality could be bad but not tooo ...


Two things need to happen in order to get a good "long exposure" photograph. Extended shutter Steady camera The shutter speed you used works for this scene, but the camera isn't steady enough. To eliminate the movement your body imparts on the camera, use a tripod, or set the camera down on a wall or other stable surface. It is also good practice to ...


To add to the other more technical points, I'd suggest changing the composition slightly. At the moment you have a lot of 'just' water in the bottom right. Moving the fountain down and right in the image would show more of the river (lake?) disappearing into the distance. As a general rule of thumb, putting the main subject of an image in the centre of the ...


Wait until the light is more favorable. This would probably be a time when the sky is not overcast and the sun is behind you, such as in the hour after sunrise or the hour before sunset. With proper exposure, this will allow the sky to appear blue instead of white.


"What to improve" is a very subjective question. with that in mind: one of my main dislikes about this exposure is the "burned" sky due to the long exposure. As your sky is somewhat similar in color to the fountain water, it reduces the emphasis from it. As you are probably using a tripod, I would attempt to capture a HDR (high dynamic range) image to get ...


This is a complex answer, so feel free to ask more questions. Basically, one major difference between the images is that your noise sources in the image is vastly different. Because the noise is different and because its contribution is different with regard to exposure, the obtained images are quite different. Think of your camera detector as a well that ...


A long exposure increases the possibility of blur due to camera movement (even tiny vibrations). You're also more likely to get noise in the image from the sensor if the exposure is very long (seconds rather than some fraction of a second).


You have a few options - and they all boil down to getting less light into the camera: Smaller aperture using a smaller aperture (higher f-number) will make the image darker, it will also increase the depth of field (usually a good thing in landscape photography) and will reduce sharpness if you push it past a certain value (test with your own camera/lens ...


What you are looking for is a ND filter (Neutral Density). They comes both as a fixed value f/stops and as a variable filter. Which as it says either takes a fixed value of light or a variable amount. I own a variable which after a few test shots can be matched any lighting situation. The fixed amount ND filter, only matches the particular situation where ...

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