Spring 2012

Spring 2012
by ani

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0

You are in trouble if the fake window is simulating a backlight... If your subject is in front of this background. If you want to use them as lateral difuse light, you could take a shoot of the window. Remove it and take a shoot of the subject using a softbox. I do not like the idea of the bounced flash but could work. This will depend on the distance you ...


1

Focus Stacking. You put the camera on a tripod, use manual focussing, and then take a serious of shots, shifting the focus plane a bit after each shot. Once you have some training, that works very quick - turn the focus ring a bit, click, turn, click, ... Then, in a post-processing software, you 'stack' all shots over each other, and select from each shot ...


6

Hmm. Looks like a large light source (probably artificial, possibly a flash in a portable softbox) (soft shadows, black background), decent lens at a "good" aperture (guessing at f11-f16, but I don't know how large the animals are, so I can't be sure, and I didn't peek at the exif for the photos, if there is any), fairly good focus (though the top frog's ...


0

I have three of the best light meters ever made, and none of them are $600. Of course, my opinion entirely, but they are solid, dependable meters, and are not expensive, like the new fancy sekonic meters that cost more than a very decent lens. The three meters I use are the Gossen Luna Pro-F (standard 9v battery), a Sekonic L-398A, and a Pentax Digital ...


0

Conform to practice. Do what reality suggests. If you know the conditions under which your work will be shown and you can't control the conditions, adapt your work to show to its best advantage. For example: I won't (knowingly) suggest a low-key image with shadow detail in a dimly lit environment.


0

It's a perception thing. Under certain dim lighting conditions, the "Purkinje shift" allows some colours that look the same under normal conditions to appear lighter or darker. It's due to the different luminosity response (apparent brightness) of the rods and cones in the retina. It's the actual colours in your print. Everything will look normal as the ...


0

Provide sufficient light where you hang your print. A dedicated soft spot light source for example will work wonders. Photoshop can do a lot, but it cannot make your print glow in the dark. If you think about it, that's what you are doing on your monitor as well. If you had an uncalibrated monitor that displayed your image too dark, would adjust the image ...


0

Try sampling the yellow from the top left and paint it over the grey area with Color blending mode.


0

I haven't had a problem of images feeling dramatically different. But there is a different feel, and some do seem to led to backlight better and some feel better in print. I don't think it's just a matter of some adjustments as much as it is the nature of the media. I think print lends itself better to higher contrast content. You can adjust the brightness ...


-2

You did ask about how to fix your image "in computer" not "in camera." I think you had a good idea, and with a little information you won't have to use post processing to fix issues in the future, only enhance what you like. What did you want to see in this image? Did you want the background AND the model to be rim lit in yellow? How far off is this from ...


2

Just addressing the light tent bit of your question: You can get white plastic shower curtains from ikea for very little money. With bamboo canes form the garden centre (or even chairs) and some tape you can make a pretty servicable table-sized light tent. This works better than a white bedsheet as if it ends up in shot the weave of the fabric can show up....


2

Well you asked a loaded question for sure. Music and photography have a similar language. In order to communicate ideas, you need to know how to speak the language. You also need to have the gear and skills of how to use it. Remember the camera is as dumb as a rock. Ok, here goes. If I told you I was a professional photographer and was asked to write a ...


3

I'm a novice photographer. The best advice I can give is using macro, good lighting and some post production using software's like adobe lightroom. Since you're trying to photograph board games, that usually involve small dice and other tiny 'accessories', I really recommend using the macro mode on your camera. The macro mode is basically a setting in ...


4

To complement other answers: there is a lot you can do in post production as well. Here's what can be achieved after playing 5 minutes in Lightroom: EDIT - after using the dehaze filter:


0

Transmitted light can have colors that can't be reproduced by reflected light. Practical implications: Prints have different color gamut than computer displays, so images often do not look the same on print and on display Digital camera calibration that uses reflective color targets does not cover the whole color range You are probably more likely to ...


2

There are only two different "kinds" of light that we now know about. The first is divergent light that is relatively random and what our eyes have evolved to use to interpret the world around us. It obeys the "inverse-square law." The second is monochromatic, collimated light, which is highly parallel and does not comply with the "inverse-square law." ...


5

... so what other lighting options do I have? Get flash gear and learn off-camera lighting. Off-camera lighting is the go-to knowledge for most product-photography. You'd have outgrown a light tent pretty fast anyway. Might as well start out with umbrellas and lights on stands with radio triggers, and have all the control. If your advanced compact has a ...


6

Re studio and ": I can't fit an entire board into a small light tent.": for a still-life, you can do without a formal or elaborate "studio". If you use a reasonable tripod, you can take an exposure time that's as long as necessary to handle the "available light". And that's the specific term you can search on for more about available light photography. So, ...


12

I'm not a photography expert at all, but I have spent my whole life playing, buying, and most importantly looking at pictures of games of various kinds. I also have painted many miniatures and developed ways to take good pictures of them without spending a lot of money on serious photo equipment over the years. So here are some thoughts from a gamer ...


10

Get a polarizer filter. You'd typically want the "circular" ones, though in this day and age you'd be hard-pressed to find one that's not. I noticed that your first and third shots show some reflection due to the board's gloss---you can remove that with a polarizer. Though most cameras not featuring an interchangeable lens system don't allow filters to be ...


9

This feedback covers the framing of the shots, less the technical aspect of it. I would dig more into the feedback you got - I was told recently that my image work needed to improve. What is important to the editors? I wouldn´t worry about taking the games outside during winter, unless this is where the boardgames are beeing played. One idea to take the ...


0

To there appear to be three light sources. Two are diffuse sources behind and above the camera, one on the left and one on the right. These produce: Even illumination of the table. Specular reflections on the plastic band of the dozer cap. The specular highlights on the watch (camera right light only). The shadows between each elbow and the box. Small ...


0

Depending on the situation and degree of light falloff you want, you may be able to get an effect similar to this without manipulating the lighting at all. To do it, choose a fast (f/1.4, or even better, f/1.2) lens, and shoot wide open. This tends to be particularly true with shorter lenses, such as a 24mm f/1.4, which can show it to an almost alarming ...


0

I'm confused about "torches". I think you are not refering to a wooden stick with a cloth full of tar on it. For a lamp, the trick would be fool your camera white balance. 1) Choose a filter or gel of a simmilar color of the ambient light you want to reduce and put it on the front of the torches. In this case yellow. You can try several layers of this gel. ...


0

Certain safety glasses are made to filter out arc sodium light. You also get safety glasses that filter out blue light so you can see more detail while woring under arc sodium light(but this will leave your images looking green). Try the UVEX SCT blue or the UVEX SCT Cobalt blue. Safety glasses are relatively cheap so you can cut them up and try it. If it ...


1

There are many traditional conservative practices and ceremonies that do not mix well with modern recording equipment. The problems may be poses, lighting, or other issues. The reason might be a simple as, "It isn't done." When this has happened to me, I have been successful in staging a second "virtual" ceremony for the "camera" and posterity with more ...


1

You can get some cheap flashes and use them as slaves. I believe flash like that costs around $70. Do not use light sources with different color temperatures (like flash plus IKEA lamp)


0

I feel you still need to provide more information, for example if the gecko is going to be on a flat background or a "natural" environment, some branches here and there. But In reality the gear you already have can do. 1) Use it on a big white board, or use a big softbox or umbrella on the top of the set. Use the second flash with another difuser as fill ...



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