Butterfly

by Rodrigo

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7

Tethered selfies are easy to setup, or you could give a try to an "Hair Styling Head" even though that could feel creepy. My solution to this was to do party photography at a local bar to try new techniques and light modifiers. Everything had to be quite portable, but as everything i used was DIY i could deal with it and not be afraid of having it damaged. ...


4

To my understanding, a Beauty dish is not really about making the light softer. That's what softboxes / bounce are for. The true value of a beauty dish is that it focuses the beam of light in a 3D point/zone, thus simulating a virtual light at that point. This virtual light has the same property as a real one. Getting this virtual light right in front of ...


4

There are two basic techniques in the photo you reference: First, it uses "clamshell" or "butterfly" lighting — see What is butterfly lighting, and when do I use it? for more. You can easily see this from the highlights in the model's pupils. The resolution is low enough that I can't tell if the fill light (from underneath) is a reflector or an actual ...


3

A few people use a polystyrene head on a light stand or table, but I've not been able to find one where I am so I use a cable release and shoot myself until I have something approaching usable then call a friend in for the minimum amount of time I can. This takes longer than shooting a head on a stick, but works just as well, a chair helps you keep the ...


3

The best way would be to buy a Light Meter that specifically can measure color temperature. Something like a Sekonic C-500 for example. With a tool like that you can properly measure the ambient sources and determine their kelvin values. Then with that knowledge you can adjust your own lighting to match the desired ambient level(s). You might have clicked ...


3

In my humble opinion you indeed can start with 2 lights and octoboxes, but for a low key portrait. For a High Key I recomend at least 3 lights. In the example you are showing you can put a light above the subject and a reflector below him, and you can use the second one to light the background (that will make 2). But a third one will give you a lot of ...


2

As Mattdm and Hugo made me realize I need new glasses Xo) I'm posting another answer. Probably you can mask the light. I would construct a "masking box". This image is just a panel, but it is the general idea. Lets say you construct a pvc pipe box 2x2x.9 mts. (the .9 mts depends on the leinght of black cardboard you can find) and place it a little far ...


1

Have a look if there are any local studios, groups, clubs, etc that get together to shoot models. A studio close to where I used to live used to run regular group shoots. Not only was it great for practising and shooting different models in different setups, but you could also see how other photographers interact with a model, and it was great for ...


1

The short answer is... make some tests. If you have a camera with manual mode, specificly you need to turn off auto white balance settings. Take some pictures of some white color objects, like a sheet of paper. This need not to be overexposed. Then you can use any photo editing software and compare the rgb values, and make some adjusments. If you want ...


1

For the differing light temps, use colored sheets ("gels") made for that purpose. I set up continuous lighting for photography years ago, since the primitive digital camera couldn't handle studio strobes, and my wife wanted to shoot food and cooking things: it's easier to get the light right if you can see it the way it will be, and move things around. For ...


1

Don't think of the background light as just a background light. Play with it. If you double the distance you will diminish the fallout. You will need to double the output, and probably put a card so you don't spill light to your subject. But play with the light, cut a cardboard in diferent shapes. From diferent angles Put a difuse before the ...


1

Think of the posibility of lighnen the shadows with a flash or 2. But if you want to use just reflectors I would not use just one silver. This gives you a verey narrow area of light. Try using 2 big white foamboards. (1 asistant can hold the 2 lying on the floor. Or if you can afford 2 asistants you can use 2 silver ones and make them light specific faces ...


1

One thing is the contrast between light and "no light", the other is how sharp is the edge of the light. The first light in the image is of "spot" type with very sharp edge, so the shadow is very deep. The other lights (for example flash using a light modifier like umbrella), the light does not have sharp edges and light falls off slowly with shadows ...


1

Take your ambient exposures for inside and out. Then expose for the windows whilst using fill flash so that the window frames are lit making it an easy cut and paste. Combine fill and ambient exposures to your taste. Mask in or out shadow and highlight areas within the interior that are getting lost.



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