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Why do light sources appear as stars sometimes? Taking a night shot with light sources involved, the sensor goes nearly always into saturation. This is because the dynamic range of the motif is much larger than the one of the camera. People are normally interested in the "illuminated darkness" rather than in the light sources. From the photographer's ...


I believe that you will find the answer to your questions under http://www.stfmc.de/misc/diffcontrarefl/tlf.html


Harsh light is more directional while soft light is more diffuse. In most cases this means that with a harsh light source you will experience a more contrasty scene than with soft light. So you may want to be very careful about correctly capturing highlights and shadows when shooting in harsh light. For most hi-end digital cameras underexposing is a safe ...


The only factor that matters is what you are looking for visually in your shot. Harsh shadows, soft shadows, no shadows, these all can be valid to have in a photo. It depends on what you want it to look like. There is no right or wrong answer. Look at how the light falls on your subject and decide if you like it. Soft shadows tend to have a more serene ...


Look at your own shadow. If you can't find your shadow then the light is as soft as it possibly can be. If you have a hard edged shadow then the light is hard. If you can make out your shadow but it's faint or the edges are not defined then you have somewhere in between (which can often give the best results).


Feathering light means you use that area of tonal transition from the highlights to the shadows created by the edge of the light modifier. The technique is most easy to achieve with softboxes and beauty dishes because there’s a sharply defined edge to the modifier itself. That’s also why feathering light with most lighting brollies is less effective because ...


A bit more than probably what you want to bother with, but the motion picture industry does make large neutral density "gels" (flexible as well as rigid) that you can cover windows with. More done with videos as those guys can't use flash, but it is useful to know that they exist.


If you don't want flash reflections in the window, and you don't plan to use off-camera flash with umbrellas etc, I suggest to turn the strobe's head so that it points at a wall (nearby) or the ceiling. I think the bounce will give you plenty of light, and diffuse its direction at the same time. You'll probably want to set the strobe to maximum power, to get ...


If you don't want to use the flash because of reflections you will need to adjust how your camera is metering the scene. You need to use spot metering on your subject so you camera will expose you subject properly.

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