Sunset in Kruger

by MrFrench

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8

As Matt noted, there's no general reason that you can't use them if the diameters match up with your lens elements. The only thing I would note in addition to that is that you may run into linear polarizers which may not work correctly with your camera's metering and autofocus systems. That's not really an issue for focussing if you manually focus. For ...


8

Yes, there is no reason that these would not work, assuming that their filter diameter matches your lenses, of course. As with lenses in general, there have been improvements in design and manufacturing which may make newer filters nicer. For example better coatings are available, and older filters are less likely to be multi-coated. You may also find newer ...


4

The other answers are correct: for this lens, the hood attaches to a bayonet on the outside of the lens, and the filter threads are still clear so that screw-in filters can still be added. It should be noted, however that this isn't universally true: screw-in hoods are available, and for some lenses this is/was the OEM solution. Also, some filter options -- ...


4

The focal length of a modern zoom lens isn't something that is nice and easy to work with a lens equation to get the answer. From hyperphysics on the true zoom telephoto lens, the lens can be thought of as a few different elements: The problem is, these elements keep moving around: which makes the entire system a bit more complex to calculate for. ...


4

They are referring to the amount of clearance between the lens rear element and the sensor. The C mount flange focal distance is 17.52mm so both of these lenses have rear elements that stick into the camera body. This fact is most relevant to SLR cameras that have a mirror which moves out of the way when a photo is taken, a lens that sticks into the camera ...


4

Unfortunately, no. While a Gorillapod is highly practical, and I have the SLR-Zoom too, it is weakest for long lenses because it is very sensitive to an off-center center-of-gravity. When a lens extends out much from the camera body, Gorillapod becomes unstable.


3

Yes. The only thing you want to look out for is "linear" polarizing filters, which interfere with TTL metering and autofocus. If your old gear doesn't have those features, your polarizing filters might be of the linear type. Newer polarizing filters are of the "circular" type, which doesn't cause problems with modern systems. (Despite the name, "circular ...


3

First off, select an AF mode other than Zone AF. In my experience, as well as that of many others', it just doesn't work well when shooting action with the 7D. The camera will likely focus on something, but it probably won't be what you wanted to be in focus. Try either Single-point AF or AF point expansion. Set up your camera so that nudging the little ...


2

It is the VR in the lens. Even if you have it turned off, when power is first supplied to the lens it will center the stabilizing element. If the camera is allowed to go into stand-by mode and then awakened by pressing the shutter button the same thing can occur if the stabilizing element in the lens has moved.


2

It sounds like you have AI Servo selected for the AF mode. The behavior you describe is normal if that is the case. To do what you want, you need to select One Shot as the AF Mode. Please note that when shooting in one of the continuous drive (burst) modes, the camera will not refocus between each shot that is taken while you continue to hold the shutter ...


2

What you're experiencing is called spherochromatism. As described in this LensRentals blog post, spherochromatism is basically spherical aberration that varies with the light wavelength. This results in chromatic aberration that gets worse the farther away you get from the plane of focus. I wouldn't worry about it. This is normal for an inexpensive fast ...


2

It is very likely that the camera has suffered internal damage which, unless you have some quite specialist tools to hand, you won't be able to fix yourself. It is more likely to be mechanical damage than dirt or electronic failure, so the lens is unable to lock in place or there is something else out of place. The problem is if you strip it down yourself ...


2

as a committed Pentax user who has had many a good shooting session with M42 screw lenses on Pentax DSLRs, I can't believe I'm about to say this but: While other posters are completely correct that Pentax is awesome for compatibility with old lenses, and the in body image stabilisation is a particular high point, no one has mentioned Canon and that's ...


1

From what I know back focal length depend of the optical construction of the lens. And it is important for mirror cameras. For example you can't mount EF-S lens on fullframe camera because last element will interfere with the mirror (which is bigger than APC cameras). P.S. Above abbreviations and explanation are related to Canon cameras and lens, but IMHO ...


1

YES!!! Definitely! some (polarisers) will work differently but that's just part of the fun. I use red, yellow, orange and blue filters for BW and they work perfectly. Some may argue that this is not necessary as you can filter on colours in post-processing, but postprocessing will definitely diminish the amount of information (bits!) of the image while ...


1

Yes, the filter has the same diameter as the lens so it won't prevent you from mounting the lens hood.


1

Are you sure you set focus back to auto on both the body and the lens? I've made this exact mistake and thought I broke something and it was just me forgetting to turn auto back on. Good luck.


1

M42 mount lenses (manual screw mount) can be used on almost any known brand as there are a wide variety of adapters available. This applies to any full frame and any DSLR / System camera that's not a 4/3. Sony can use the "newer" Minolta AF lenses, these were also quite common back in the day. Of course, some older lenses do not have AF and the use of ...



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