Napioa - Wind Origins

Napioa - Wind Origins
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37

If you shoot from the same position with both lenses, then taking the 35mm lens and cropping it to the same angle of view of the 50mm lens will give you pretty much the same picture, other than the differences in optical quality between the two lenses and the resolution lost to cropping. But even if you were to shoot with the same lens, shooting from a ...


17

The proof is in the pudding – the focal lengths are not exactly the same as yours, but the differences are obvious...


12

Thanks to my schwifty skills in Inkscape, the rotation here is slightly off but the following shows exactly what you're comparing. These are the fields of view of a Nikon 35mm (inner) and a Nikon 50mm (outer). So even when you're getting approximately the same stuff in the frame, the 35mm is much wider, focal distances are slightly different too. If ...


6

I'd say that if you have to ask which lens would be most suitable, you're probably going to want the range of the Sigma 50-500mm. The 70-200mm f/2.8 is the best of the lenses you listed. The 70-300mm D has gone through a couple updates over the years, so compared to the other 2, it's a bit dated. But because you're not exactly sure of what you'll be seeing, ...


6

Adaptors to reduce the filter thread of a lens are a bad idea. They cause vignetting (dark areas in the corners). You might get away with a reduction of 2mm as different brands standardise on different sizes. Some kit lenses have bigger threads than they need so that the manufacturer needs to support fewer standard sizes. Apart from these 2 cases your not ...


6

35mm is not wide enough for many types of general photography. With any group shots, (especially indoors) or any large outdor landscape scenes, you will need something like 16mm to 18mm to get everything in the frame. The easiest way to accomplish this is by going with the 18-55mm kit lens. I don't know what you read but todays kit lenses are much better ...


5

The assumption that aspheric lenses create "abnormal" projections is incorrect. There is nothing "normal" in normal spherical lenses, except that we can produce them cheaply. You don't get rectilinear projection just because you used spherical lenses, you have to struggle for accurate rectilinear projection (if that's your goal). Pinhole is automatically ...


5

Sometimes the circumstance under which you are shooting trumps distinctions between the optical quality of one lens over another, even when there is significant difference in the optical quality of the lenses in question. This is one of those times. When shooting subject matter such as bears in the wilds of Alaska, focal length is the key consideration. ...


4

Do you have a selection of lenses (or a zoom lens) now? Shoot a table-top test with different focal lengths, repositining the camera to get tye same view of the foreground object. Then look carefully at the photos to see for yourself. If you're one of those peopke where this doesn't just scream at you, it's good to develop your eye to seeing the ...


4

The 35mm film camera format has been with us since 1924 when the German Leica was introduced. The image size (format size) measures 24mm height by 36mm length. Now digital cameras are replacing film cameras. Most were built to house a digital imaging chip that has the same format size. These are called full frame cameras. As technology marches on it has ...


4

Ill throw some advice in there (I also happen to be a pilot) Instrument Lights: Unless you are shooting some kind of piper cub or something chances are the instrument panel is lit its self. Don't be afraid to use the instrument lights during the day to add some fill light. The type of lights vary by aircraft but you may be able to make the instruments ...


4

It depends. This is why getting a blanket lens recommendation almost never works. Everybody has a different set of priorities on what and how they want to shoot and how much they have to spend. Getting a 35/1.8 and a telephoto could work really well for you. It also might not. Whether or not you "need" the kit zoom depends. The main thing to keep in mind ...


4

portrait, landscape, macro If these are the kinda of photography you intend on doing then maybe the kit lens is the better choice over the 35 prime. I assume you are going with the 55-200 regardless so the debate really comes down to the 35 prime V.S. the kit lens on a D3300. I happen to own both the kit lens and the 35mm on my D3300 so ill discuss some ...


4

Yes, the two letters together mean High Definition. It is just a marketing term like many others. Pentax at some point changed the coatings on 5 of their lenses and added HD to their names and changed a color around the edge from green to red. You will find the press release for the coating here. There is a copy of the press release for the lenses here. ...


4

The Nikon AF 70-300mm F4-5.6 ED D was a fair lens back in the day, but the problem you'll have now is that it's not an AF-S lens -- meaning it doesn't have an autofocus motor built in -- and will therefore be manual-focus only on the 5300.


3

We can rule out the 70-300 right off. It's noisy and not great optically. I would take the 70-200 Nikkor as it's got good glass, big aperture and VR but is no good for landscape shots. The Sigma will handle the wide and very long ends but you are right that the compromises needed to make a 50-500 lens are going to result in poorer images. That really ...


3

The difference between 21mm and 28mm doesn't sound like all that much. But as focal lengths get shorter the difference per millimeter in focal length gets larger. In theory a 21mm lens should yield about a one third wider field of view than a 28mm lens. For a 35mm film camera that would be the difference between a 75º diagonal FoV for the 28mm lens and a ...


3

It really is a personal decision. Myself, I would bring the 28mm only and stitch together multiple images to get a wider shot if necessary. While backpacking I'm much more concerned with weight than the few extra minutes a stitch will take to capture and create later in post.


3

To get rid of nasty reflections from glass surfaces a really great thing to do is crossing polarizer filters on flash and lens. In practice, you put a polarizer foil (can be found in broken lcd panels for example if you don't want to buy it) on the flash and then turn the polarizer on your lens until the affect is achieved as much as you like it. Watch out, ...


3

I'll use a tripods and take multiple exposures shoots for HDR (natural looking HDR, not the cartoonish kind). Then composed the shoots so all the instruments are clear and in focus, but also thanks to HDR allows the viewer to see though the windows. I'll reduce reflections by using a polarising filter, and being on a tripods the reduction in light doesn't ...


3

Anytime you can afford the delay. It reduces vibration from the mirror movement which simply means there will be reduced vibration in the system. This is always good, unless, of course, you cannot time your shot in advance beause you are shooting a moving subject. This does not mean that it always needed since there are other sources of vibration such as ...


3

Because a 10 mm lens is a 10 mm lens. Crop factor has nothing to do with the real mm of a lens. Crop factor is the same as if you take your Photoshop and crop the center of a photo. Take a look at this answer: Do I use the crop factor in calculating aperture size and area? The crop factor equivalent is to give you "an idea" if you have being using a 35 ...


3

You may easily check it if you photgraph an objective test chart - which will have converging lines for judging the resolution. If 2px or so wide lines look very pale on the photograph when using 100% zoom then you may be sure that the objective does not catch with resolution of sensor. Hint: it does not. Even huge number of expensive objectives for 1,5x ...


3

I ended up contacting the manufacturer, who replied the same day and suggested trying to clean the lens with alcohol. And it worked! The 70% isopropyl rubbing alocohol dissolved what I now believe was residue from the glue of the protective sticker, instantly. Just using the microfiber without the alcohol wasn't enough to get rid of the glue. I'm ...


3

I live in Alaska and have shot assignments involving bears for the US Forest Service and the NY Times [ for example ]. In Alaska photographing bears can mean many things. If you end up someplace like Brooks Camp in Katmai, you can actually get quite close to the bears because you are shooting from platforms around habituated animals. Other places you will ...


3

The Minolta Hi Matic 9 has a fixed 45mm lens. It is not possible to switch lenses. Source: oldcamerareview Lens variety and interchangeability – Nope, you won’t get that either. But, if you are the person that had to save up and finally got your Leica and lens, you probably can’t afford another lens for awhile anyway.


2

It looks more like a bubble or other manufacturing defect than fungus. Fungus is usually more like fine threads, like this: It also usually takes some time and dampness for fungus to develop. Since it looks like the camera is brand new and packed in original, dry packaging, fungus doesn't seem likely. (Source: ...


2

I use a Tamron 16-300mm (APS-C lens) for travel, the flexibility is really good. The lens is obviously a compromise, and it's a very slow lens. But as a one lens for all purposes for travel, I can't thing of anything better (or I haven't tried any lens that fits me better). You can see some video reviews here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LudX0GmLZQ ...


2

Do some math: If you took a picture on your 35 mm and you cropped, lets say the width: 50% you need a 70mm lens. 75% (leaving just 1/4 of the total width) 140mm (150) lens. And so on. But if you are not cropping in exact proportions all your photos you need a zoom lens, for example a 70-200mm or 55-200mm. Look for a good quality one or you will leave ...


2

Think of those as qualifiers, not types because they are not mutually exclusive: Relative to viewing-angle, lens can be called: Ultra-Wide, Wide-Angle, Normal, Telephoto, Super-Telephoto. These terms are not absolute either in that a lens can be wide-angle when mounted on one camera and normal or ultra-wide on another, depending if the sensor is relatively ...



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