Time to be with your loved ones

Time to be with loved ones

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23

The petal design is more effective. Think of what you can see through your lens: it is a pyramid-shaped chunk of space that falls within your view, one that has a rectangular rather than a square base. Now imagine placing a round lens hood atop that pyramid - there will be a large gap on each side, because the corners bump into the round opening first. A ...


18

Uncontrolled light causes lens flare. This can be light that's reflected from internal lens surfaces, or that's scattered by imperfections in the glass. If the flare is badly controlled, it will produce the dramatic lens flare artifacts which you've probably seen. More controlled flare will be diffused over the entire image, reducing contrast but not ...


16

This is lens flare, where reflections within the lens end up showing on your photos. General guidance to minimise it includes: Avoid getting the sun in shot (and ideally, avoid having it just-out-of-frame too) Use a lens hood to shade the front element Try to use lenses that have anti-reflective coatings Keep the front element clean, but follow the lens ...


15

What you are seeing in the photo is a specific type of lens flare known as ghosting. It is an inverted and reversed reflection of the brightest highlights of the scene. If you were to draw an x and y axis intersecting in the center of the photo, then the bright light on top of the building just left of the vertical axis is reflected the same distance below ...


14

Thats actually a UV filter not an ND filter, very different filters :) Anyway, lower quality filters flare more, if you want to continue to use a UV filter consider a multi-coated filter. It seems other people who bought that same filter had similar complaints, see the 1st review: "However, I had to return this item since they DON'T contain any ...


13

The scene you were shooting (bright spot light + darkness) is actually one that's most prone to flares. This happens will all filters, but some have less flare because they have better coating. Lens construction and coating of its elements also matters. A simple comparison: no filter better filter (Marumi DHG Lens Protect) worse filter (Hama UV 0-HAZE ...


12

In general a lens hood can help this, as can shading the lens with your hand (this if useful in the cases where the lens hood falls short of offering optimum flare protection, as is often the case with zooms, or full frame primes on APS-C). Shading only works when the lightsource is outside of the frame, however. Of course the best way of avoiding flare is ...


11

Looks like a shutter malfunction (which fits with it only appearing at certain shutter speeds). The shutter is made of a series of metal blades, it looks like one of these blades is misaligned, which is exposing that part of the sensor for longer than it should be, hence the bright area. You can have the shutter replaced at a Canon service centre.


11

As Chills stated, petal shaped hoods are designed to better take into account the wider shape of a camera's film or sensor. This article on Lens Flare has a good description of lens hoods and how they function.


11

Those are almost certainly reflections from the UV filter. I recommend taking it off. This is a topic of much debate, but the fact is filters do cause artifacts visible in your photos — you've got the evidence right there. You can get better results from a more expensive filter, but then it'll cost almost as much as your lens. Lenses aren't as fragile as ...


10

A lens hood won't do you much good if the light source is in the frame. In this case, the things to do are (a) use high-quality, well-coated lenses, designed for digital if you're doing that (i.e., the rear element is coated) and (b) minimize extra glass in the optical path - remove UV filters, etc.


9

Yes grease and smudges can cause flare, but instead of well defined circles or lines you are more likely to get an overall clouding effect with a visible glow around highlights and lightsources. In fact it used to be a common technique with glamour and some portrait photographers to smear vaseline on a lens in order to get flattering (if cheesy) soft focus ...


9

A Flair for flare. Flare reduces the contrast of the image captured. It can affect the image overall or selectively. I'm going to make a great leap of faith and guess that you are after selective flare such as a round or symmetrical shape that plays across the image. Your concept of what is beautiful and desirable versus undesirable is personal and will ...


9

It is "lens flare" in the first, but in the second, it is the reflection of the black internal parts of the front of your lens which are illuminated by the direct sun reflecting off the inside of your UV filter.


8

You can get all sorts of interesting shapes and colours when shooting directly into a lightsource like that. All pieces of glass reflect a certain amount of light and transmit a certain amount, so you actually get flare from everything in your scene every time you shoot, only it's usually much dimmer than the rest of the picture so you don't see it. When ...


7

The main two things that I have found to be helpful when trying to achieve the sunburst effect are: Stop the lens down to at least f/16. I usually start at f/22 and work my way wider if I'm not satisfied with the effect. Note that each aperture will give a slightly different sunburst effect. Expose for the sky. Without a flash or reflector, your foreground ...


7

This does look like some kind of flare, I can't tell if this is caused by the lens or the UV filter but filters (especially "not so expensive" ones) are know to cause flare. To avoid flare you just have to prevent the light coming directly from the sun from hitting the front of your lens, this is what the lens hood does when the sun is outside the frame. ...


7

This shot has been taken with star 4 filter. You could simulate it with photoshop, but I prefer to put a filter and have that effect while shooting. There are multiple different start filters: star 4, star 6, star 8 - number tells how many streaks from each strong light point you will get. As for the second part, it does not matter outdoors or indoors, as ...


7

The "rainbow effect" is lens flare. Point and shoot cameras as especially susceptible to lens flare as they often are made out of low quality materials. They also typically do not have any type of coatings on the lens to help with lens flare. Additional information: What causes lens flare? How can you avoid/minimize lens flare when shooting into the ...


7

OK i will try to actually answer this! there is a distinction between HAZE and flare - for the purposes of this I will cover FLARE only. Lens flare is caused by light from a particularly bright source such as the sun or a bulb directly striking the lens element surfaceS at an off-centre axis, and not being REFRACTED but instead being REFLECTED either off ...


6

If you're talking about the strange arcs like in the bottom left corner of this picture: Then it's just flare caused by shooting into a lightsource. Concert lights tend to produce strong flaring effects as they are very focussed. The only fix is to use a different lens (they all flare differently) or not shoot directly into any lightsources. However when ...


6

I suspect what's happening is one of the following things. Lens flare. This occurs usually when you have a bright source of light off to a side, and makes some usually hexagonal shaped images appear in your light, as seen below. The cure is to keep the light from said external sources from reaching your lens, and to keep your lens clean. Using a lens hood ...


6

Looks like flare caused by some kind of oily residue on the lens. I wouldn't say you have permanently damaged it, although that may be a remote possibility if you scratched it or maybe etched away any of the multicoating. I would find some photographic lens cleaning solution and a nice microfiber cloth, a soft camel hair brush or a LensPen, and try to ...


5

As has been said this is the result of lens flare. Lens flare is caused by a point source light in the field of view of the camera. In this picture that source is the sun. But you can see this effect with other point sources such as a lamp, flashlight, or headlight. Another factor in the intensity of lens flare is the aperture. A small aperture (large f ...


5

I think it's interesting that it's not uncommon to see lens flare added to CGI sequences (think SF space scenes). It's a fingerprint of the device (lens), and people may expect to see it when a bright light source is in the scene. In general I try to avoid it, but sometimes it works. My IR camera is particularly flare prone, so I try to incorporate it in ...


5

The flare is likely to wash out contrast, regardless, but that too can make the scene work better. I'm not really sure that you can change that except, perhaps, using HDR techniques. In any case, some of the more effective uses of flare that I've seen are with images that are silhouettes, where the beams stand out against the dark foreground. The other ...


5

Exposing the moon for 46 seconds is an EXTREMELY long time. The moon is going to track across the sky during that whole time, creating a trail as it goes. Unless you have a tracking mount (either alt/az, which will track accurately for short periods of time, or a German equatorial, which will track for indefinite amounts of time), you can, at most, expose ...


5

The elliptical flares were probably from an anamorphic lens. These lenses squash the image horizontally in order to get a widescreen picture on a standard width film strip. The anamorphic elements are usually on the front of the lens so the lens barrel appears elliptical to the camera. Lens flares are just reflections so can take the shape of any lens ...


5

If the index mark on your photo was at the center of the original image, the purplish blotch above and to the right of it is a ghosting of the bright light source the same distance to the lower left of it. Ghosting is caused by the light from extremely bright sources (relative to the rest of the scene) reflecting off the front surface of a lens element or ...



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