Apples

Apples

by Garik

submit your photo


Picture of the Week Themes
Suggest and vote on themes

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Tag Info

New answers tagged

0

To get a really nice wide lens for landscape I would suggest the Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM. You are using a body with a crop sensor, so you need to consider that your actual lens focal length would be mm x 1.6 so at 10mm its the equivalent to 16mm on a full frame sensor, or 35mm camera on film. I have the 10-22 and find it nice and sharp and has a ...


0

If you want one lens for those purposes you can't use a prime, but Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM would be a good option. Then you have the wide end for landscapes, and can take portraits with 55mm. Portraits on a crop sensor looks best from 60-90mm, so 55mm gets pretty close. And it is a fixed aperture zoom. While not being quite as open as the 1.8 primes, ...


1

You've really got some competing needs there. Portraits typically call for a normal to short-tele lens -- starting at 50mm or so (full-frame) or 35mm (crop). Landscapes and star photography tend to lean toward wider lenses, and on the crop-sensor T3i, you'd want to be at least as wide as the 28. As a point of reference, Canon's 10-22mm lens is generally ...


0

The camera wants it to be Zone 5 if you smush all the tones together. The histogram wants it to be solid black at it's darkest pixel and pure white at it brightest (though thats more of a contrast thing) You can have it anyway you choose. Kudo's to guy who mentioned the Ansel Adams system. The king of the correct exposure.


3

I'd dare to say the correct exposure is whatever is needed for the artist to get the effect he or she desires. That might be technical perfection, but it might also be deliberate over- or underexposure used to get specific artistic effects. I've used this myself to get seriously blown out highlights, causing a winter beach scene to look like a desert under a ...


2

Most of my photographing is outdoors while hiking, so I have some experience with this. There is no one answer, since it depends on how much you are willing to take (lug around) versus how much flexibility you want in capturing something you see. The longer the hike, the more you may want to minimize the gear and live with the realization that you're just ...


1

I just take my Panasonic Lumix GF-1 with the 14mm f/2.5 pancake. It’s my only camera and I have picked the combination of a Micro 4/3 camera with a wide-angle pancake lens especially because I like to go outside and wanted something small & light. The whole thing including the lens and the battery is around 400–450g, which is great when compared to a ...


5

For camera equipment on a day hike, I take one body and two lenses (18-55mm and 55-250mm) a tripod, wired shutter release, a waterproof case with my memory cards inside, spare battery and polarizing filter. You can see more in my blog post at http://www.thecreativescorner.com/2012/08/21/my-new-ultra-adaptable-and-inexpensive-camera-daypack/ Some of my ...


2

Ansel Adams developed the Zone System to allow him to select the exposure levels of specific objects in his photos in relation to other specific objects with different luminosities rather than basing the exposure on a single meter reading of an object with the approximate average luminosity of the overall scene. We often forget that cameras have only had ...


3

I'm not sure if this is a "how is exposure defined" question or an "is my camera busted" question, so I'll try to address both. :) Definition of proper exposure ISO standard 1271 contains a definition for photographic exposure. Bypassing the math, "correct" exposure averages a scene's luminance and renders that luminance at a particular (but arbitrary) ...


2

The "correct" exposure may vary some from one image processing system to another, but the general goal is to make the darkest and brightest parts of the image both fall within the dynamic range of the camera with a good white balance and natural contrast. The bright and dark part is easy if the scene doesn't exceed the dynamic range of the camera since it ...


2

Do not take a DSLR and a couple of lenses and a tripod. Rent a Fujifilm X100s. Take it and nothing else. When hiking, your most important criteria is weight, and second, size. David Hobby has written extensively that its the only camera he takes when he is going light. Review: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/03/in-depth-new-fujifilm-x100s.html traveling ...


8

This is difficult to answer because each one of us has different shooting styles, goals, and preferences. Here is my big tip: Less is more Hiking is much more enjoyable when your pack is as light as possible. Five extra pounds of unnecessary gear can turn a fun trip into a chore. You might consider 1-2 lenses that aren't that heavy, or you might even be a ...


4

A landscape photograph simply has so much of such data that you are wanting to see. Going from low resolution to high gives you the detail level you would accept and say "this is enough". Low res gives you only tree trunks and a mass of green on the tree. Step up the resolution and you'll distinguish branches of the tree. But you know you should be able to ...


3

Well, the statement that "resolution is of utmost importance for landscape photography" is questionable. As far as I'm concerned, the highest priority in photography is taking a great photo, so composition and timing are of the utmost importance. However, high resolution is always good. For landscape photography, you pretty nailed the reasons why in your ...



Top 50 recent answers are included