Forgotten in its old age

by Aditya

submit your photo


Hall of Fame
View past winners from this year

Please participate in Meta
and help us grow.

Tag Info

New answers tagged

1

I would do it in Photoshop. Use the lasso tool to highlight an area around the sun-beam, basically a cylinder on the angle of the sun-beam (or collection thereof). create a new layer called "mask" and fill it with a color. next i'd create an adjustment layer and i'd set that with higher contrast and a touch more saturation; also play w/ levels a bit. ...


6

There are a few different ways to emphasize crepuscular rays in post production. 1) One of the ways those crepuscular rays can be enhanced is with any tool that can provide volumetric lighting effects. The one I use is a tool called Rays from Digital Film Tools. As you mentioned, this type of tool may be the type to add fake rays to a photo. However, I ...


-2

Experimentation, tips from many talented mentors a pile of garbage images and some pure luck has resulted in a default starting setup / checklist for any Landscape, Panorama Stitch during Daytime or at Night... This also works as Middle Exposure in any HDR Bracket. Heavy Tripod (Keep legs and neck extension to a minimum) F-Stop -3EV from the Full Closed ...


2

If the question is meant literally f/1.4 vs f/16, then I would say 16, because there are only handful of lenses that are good enough at f/1.4 to shoot landscape type of photography in great technical quality. But my mindset about setting aperture (for these types of shots or others) is different. In this kind of photography you should set your aperture to: ...


7

If so, which would be more advisable? Assuming you don't have stability or motion issues and depth of field is not a concern then f/16 would be more advisable than f/1.4 as ultra-fast lenses show several image degrading aberrations when the aperture is wide open. However f/5.6 would probably be better still, as diffraction starts to kick in past this ...


3

The distance of the objects is not a factor on your decision on the shutter speed. Their relative movement velocity related to the camera as well as your composition intentions and the available light is what really matters. The fact that you ask the question hints that you don't know about the artistic differences between a large aperture and a small one ...


13

f/16 will give you sharper image than f/1.4. Yes, diffraction does kick-in at f/16, but it's still not as bad as the optical flaws that are pronounced at f/1.4 in pretty much every f/1.4 lens out there. (see: tests of your particular lens, resolution charts) Also lens coma and astigmatism are worse when lens is wide open than when it's stopped-down. That's ...


3

Assuming you are using a tripod, the shutter speed will make little difference in itself. If you are hand-holding, a faster shutter speed will help to eliminate shake. You also have the consideration of any moving objects in the scene, like trees, water, or clouds - a slower shutter speed will blur them. However, image quality is rarely at its best at ...



Top 50 recent answers are included