New answers tagged iso
1
There order does not matter if you are in Manual mode. The picture just requires all three to be set. Actually, they are always all set since exposure parameters have no unset value. If you are shooting manual it is your responsibility to set parameters to get the exposure you want but the order in which you set parameters has no impact on the outcome.
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0
There isn't really an optimal choice. In general, you will almost always want the lowest ISO possible to reduce noise. You then want to adjust the shutter to be as fast as necessary to capture any movement and then want to adjust the aperture for the desired depth of field.
If the image is too bright, you can speed the shutter. If the image is too ...
1
In perfect conditions, if you could stop time, the best will probably be:
the lowest native ISO of your camera (not counting the low 1 or similar ISOs of the different brands),
the f-number in the sweet stop of your lens, usually around two f-tops smaller of the widest you have,
and choosing your speed and/or the power of your light sources consequently.
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5
It, of course, depends.
You want to change that which affects the photograph negatively the least.
If you are shooting scenery, you have a decent latitude in terms of aperture. You ideally want to be above f/8 and can easily go as far as f/22 (although you may lose sharpness after f/16). You have even greater latitude in terms of shutter speed, anywhere ...
0
These are the setting that I generally find work best for me. I use a 35mm film camera, but should be the same for digital.
Shadow characteristics. St. photography
ISO Set shutter speed to match ISO
f/16 Sunny: Distinct with sharp edges.
f/11 Slightly cloudy: Soft around edges.
f/8 Overcast: Barely visible shadows.
f/5.6 Heavy overcast: No shadows.
f/4 ...
1
The formula you found with ISO included is wrong.
The correct formula is....
Guide Number= Distance x Aperture.
or Distance = Guide Number / Aperture
or Aperture = Guide Number / Distance
As you would know, Guide Number is given for ISO 100 always. We will deal with other ISOs a little later.
As a photographer, my first worry would be how far my flash ...
0
Shooting at ISO 100 is very difficult due to several competeing compromises. you need to be in very bright light, or use wide open apertures, or use some kind of stabilization due to low shutter speeds. wide open apertures are not a feature of most zooms, even 2.8 zooms are a bit slow. Wide apertures result in extremely shallow depth of field and also some ...
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