Spring 2012

Spring 2012
by ani

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8

There are two aspects to your question, because "converting" from RAW to JPEG isn't a simple thing — it's an interpretive process. So, your results are likely be significantly different. ImageMagick just uses the rudimentary raw conversion from dcraw, and doesn't appear to give you much control over that. Lightroom uses Adobe's rather sophisticated RAW ...


3

A reasonable answer to this would be "it depends" (another perspective is to "battle a little against the idea of objective metrics") I'd recommend consulting this chart to determine how long you should spend trying to figure out a quicker way if 'quickness' is what you are looking for. However if you decide to approach this as an exercize in ...


3

If you find that hitting the "auto" button in the GIMP levels dialog generally does the thing you're looking for, you can batch that as described here. Specifically, you would put this script: (define (batch-auto-levels pattern) (let* ((filelist (cadr (file-glob pattern 1)))) (while (not (null? filelist)) (let* ((filename (car filelist)) ...


2

To remove all the EXIF info from your photos you can use exiftool The command should looks like: exiftool -all= coolphoto_16x16_6color.png


1

When I implemented curves in my own image viewer, I first just did it on the RGB values. It annoyed me that it seemed to screw up the color balance, especially when increasing the brightness with the curve. Then I made the option to decide what the LUT should apply to. E.g. Luminance of the YUV transform. I found that luminance is better for brightening ...


1

You definitely need to ensure that the curves processing happens in exact same color spaces. What you describe may be caused by different tone response curves (for example using Prophoto vs. sRGB) Even then there might be differences: Photoshop apparently uses perceptual processing in some areas of the program where some other apps prefer simpler math It ...


1

If the images are often appearing to be over-sharpened, but you haven't noticed images being under-sharpened, then it's a good sign that you are simply sharpening them too much. Try decreasing the "amount" argument until you get more satisfactory results. For example, try halving it, then halving it again, until you notice that it's about right. I suspect,...


1

I suggest you use a movie compositing software like Adobe After Effects, Apple Shake or Autodesk Combustion. Those programs have been around for years and should be available for cheap on ebay. They were made for image series and deliver professional results. You can use the tracker function to position the sun within the frame.


1

Assuming the camera didn't move throughout the sequence, I'd do the first and the last images by hand, making certain to trim both to the same size frame. Then interpolate the position of the frame for each intermediate image based on the image's timestamp. It shouldn't be hard to write a script that does that for you. Even a spreadsheet would work for ...



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