Westminster fountain at sunset

by Jorge Córdoba

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36

A technically correct photo should: be sharp rather than blurry be focused properly rather than on some random AF point be properly exposed have correct color balance not have too much noise


25

For start, one should be aware that technical correctness is no substitute for artistic vision. Here are some technical criteria in no particular order: The exposure is correct, shadows are not lost, highlights are not clipped The parts that need to be in focus, are in focus There is no motion blur (caused by camera shake) The photo does not have a color ...


15

Apparently you have the Highlight Alert feature on. This allows you to preview areas of your picture that are overexposed (receiving too much light) and decide if this is your intention or not. This is a very handy feature, but if you prefer to turn it off you can follow this tutorial (source): Press the Menu button, then use the Multi-selector to ...


11

You can't view a RAW image, because a RAW file is not an image, it is a set of monochrome luminance values. When the data is converted to RGB using demosaicing certain settings such as contrast, saturation, etc. are applied. There has to be a value for those settings. You are much better off learning to use the histogram (also drawn from the JPEG preview) to ...


8

You're in the mode of the camera where it shows you the over (or possibly under) exposed parts of your images. Its a useful mode, but if you'd like to exit, click the up or down arrow while you see that image to cycle through the viewing modes.


8

The ISO standard, as explained in this document produced by X-Rite, a company that produces hardware and software used for color calibration, is to view prints in light that is at D50 (full spectrum centered at 5,000K) in terms of color temperature. In terms of intensity, around 2,000 lux (roughly equivalent to an overcast day) should be used for color ...


7

Things look different because everything is different and you have done no effort to make them the same. Your DSLR has control over brightness and so does your screen and your friend's, etc. The probability of them being at the same brightness without you doing explicitly so is absolutely zero. A JPEG image and RAW file is different. As a matter, a RAW ...


6

I am certain there are no such generally-accepted criteria, because there are too many variable factors. Even technical aspects of image quality are subjective, and one person's "too much blur" may be another's "sense of motion". I'm sure many specific contests have their own scoring systems and scoring rules, to help with consistency across years and ...


6

Only way I could think of is MagicLantern. I installed it on my 1100D yesterday night and I instantly wanted to disable that feature.


5

You are almost certainly seeing a JPEG preview file. Even if you only save RAW files, the vast majority of cameras generate a preview or thumbnail JPEG and that is what you see on the LCD on the back of your camera. RAW files contain monochromatic luminance values for each photosite. Since the sensor is masked with a pattern of filters that allow different ...


5

It depends on the camera, but generally the JPEG is shown and the histograms correspond to the JPEG as well. RAW isn't actually an image file, it is sensor data. Without further image processing it can't be displayed as a particularly meaningful image since it would lack color information and would not be true black and white either due to color filters on ...


5

I had a sun shade on my D100 years ago... that lasted exactly one shoot. I'd look into the HoodLoupe. I have a couple. Great product. They're made by Hoodman Corporation — http://hoodmanusa.com/.


5

I just use a toilet roll, which I covered in black tape, then colored the inside with a black permanent marker. Good news is it is cheap, folds flat, has almost no weight and readily available in a pinch.


4

As rfusca said above, This is where parts of your picture has potential data loss due to exposure. This feature is called Zebra when looking it up in your User Manual.


4

The most likely reason is the relative brightness of your camera LCD and your computer screen. I wouldn't judge if the image is bright just because it looks bright in the LCD. I would instead use the histogram - start by taking a well-exposed image where you have a histogram that indicates the image is not too dark and not too bright. I would turn off ...


4

If you want to see the white balance setting, then in the playback menu, find the playback display options and enable "shooting data" which will include aperture, shutter speed, white balance and other settings. The playback display options also include an option to show the RGB histogram, if that's what you mean. Once enabled, you can cycle through the ...


4

I like the general advice of learning by using only manual mode. However, automatic mode wasn't the cause of any problems with this particular picture. The basic problem is that this scene has a very wide dynamic range, which is pretty much true any time the light sources illuminating the scene also appear in the picture. This is no different from the sun ...


4

You can use Magic Lantern to display RAW histogram in live view and image review. Head over to http://www.magiclantern.fm and download the version available for your camera. The installation instructions are different for each camera and can be found in their forums. In order to view RAW histogram in the preview, you could shoot with the technicolor ...


3

The fastest viewer for Windows is PMView Pro as far as I can tell. You can download a free trial for 30 days (IIRC) and the full version is not expensive ($50 USD). This may depend on your hardware but is one of the most efficient software at reading images. I bought several licenses over the years and although I use Linux primarily, I still use it often ...


3

I have 2 D3200s and one of the first things I noticed was that at default "0" screen setting they are both way too bright. I'm a 40 yr vet to photography and it absolutely is a defect in the screen brightness. I own D3100, D5100, D700, D7000, D200 and others and have never had the problem with any other camera.


3

In Magic Lantern under 'prefs' under 'image review settings'. Turn off 'quick zoom' All done. Enjoy.


3

Well, Canon 20D doesn't have live view and that makes it a little hard but I guess it shouldn't be that hard to hook a bigger monitor to it. I just looked up the B&H quickly and I found this portable monitor which has analog inputs: Vello RigVision 9" HD Camera Monitor It has many different inputs and I guess you should be able to connect to your ...


3

If you want to take the same shot again but make it brighter, you need to leave Auto mode and select one of the manual modes - in fact, with tricky light conditions like this, you will probably need full Manual (M) mode - your camera's manual is the best place to learn how to use it. Don't be afraid to experiment. The automatic modes will be confused by the ...


2

The essentials of a "Technically Correct" image would be: Sharp Correct Exposure Correct Focus (Auto-focus should take care of this) For the most part, if you use good equipment in auto mode and avoid things like camera shake, your camera will take care of the technically correct part. As long as you know how to avoid the big issues, you can take a ...


2

Your DSLR has an optical viewfinder (thank god...) rather than EVF like in those compacts, so no - you did not miss such settings. That said, you do have a brightness settings on your menu to enhance the rear LCD. Might not help in full sun, but can make the difference in less demanding situations. Note that it eats your camera's battery faster, though. In ...


2

You can buy shades which clip on on to the LCD and flip out. However, if like me you don't mind looking slightly odd if it saves you money, you can just keep the inner cardboard tube from a toilet paper roll in your kit, then you can just put it against the LCD and look through the other end. Works a treat.


2

It seems like there are a number of smartphone and tablet options (none of which I've needed to try personally, but they may give you some ideas): use an iPad with a CF card adapter use a SD to CF adapter in your camera to record images onto SD cards instead of CF; you can then use the iPad Camera Connection Kit to read images from the SD card on your iPad ...


2

The EPSON P3000 is probably what you are looking for. It also does backups too as a bonus. It has a 4" LCD and can show both JPEG and RAW images from a Compact-Flash card. You can zoom into images to check focus. Just note that because it is hard-drive based, it does not work above 10,000' of altitude which can be a concern for some and irrelevant for ...


2

this is hard to do without RAW postprocessing. You want more dynamic range than the usual jpeg conversion assumes. Your shot is well exposed for the lights. If you shoot 2 stops longer, which is needed to bring forth the road, you blow the lights, so much that even the halos around the lights saturate and it looks weird. If you instead process the ...


1

As already answered, it depends of the camera (I know mine is using the jpg because if I shoot in raw only, the preview isn't available). If you really want to know, you may test it easily: take two easy to tell apart picture (ie one of the sky and one of the ground) transfer the jpg files to your computer rename each of them with the name of the other ...



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