New answers tagged hdr
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If you are interested in this, I would suggest getting 'dcraw' which is a command line RAW converter. There is a Mac version for download from the site, the source code, and if you have HomeBrew installed, you can install it via 'brew install dcraw'.
The 'dcraw' program allows you to specify a variety of options including the Gamma and Exposure level ...
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I think (I'm not sure though) there is no built-in command line tools for such task. Instead, you can use third party softwares. Allow me to introduce you to very nice ImageMagick.
It is a set of cross-platform command-line tools that allow you to do a lot. It has lots of tools and also many scripts based on it are available online. They have also a forum ...
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I suspect in some of his images he chased a photograph through some HDR tonemapping software (Oloneo, Photomatix) which regularly leeds to such effects.
(You can used the editing on single exposures as well - without stacked images for HDR.)
In terms of using a "regular photo editor", you add a lot of "clarity" or "sharpness" (not via RAW sharpening but ...
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Some of the basic things I can see is that everything uses a red shifted color balance. It gives more of a rust look. Also shifting the gamma down to make things dark but high contrast (brights are still bright, but a larger portion of the image is in the darker range). There may also be some desaturation to make colors look more faded and aged.
It also ...
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You will have far greater control of your final image if you take several pictures and combine them later using an HDR post-processing tool. You'll have the choice of making it photo-realistic (like the built-in camera modes) as well as going all "cartoony" like many on the internet like. But you also have the ability to get the shot looking exactly like you ...
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This is ultimatly a fairly subjective question. I think it does a pretty good job on my 5D Mark iii most of the time. It's also worth noting that you can have the 5DM3 save the individual files used (including in RAW format) so that you can always use software later even if you decide you don't like the JPEG that it produces. There are also multiple ...
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If you click here, you can see examples of the HDR mode in the 5D mark III. There are actually several presets, so it gives you the freedom to choose one you like. Of course you have less freedom compared with software like photomatix.
It is not possible to say which one is better, since this is also a matter of taste. I think its a trade off between ease ...
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Photomatix and Photoshop are the big ones, Hugin is the free option but nobody mentioned oloneo - www.oloneo.com .
I personally like Oloneo next to my Photoshop CS4 - the advantage I see in Oloneo over Photomatix are significantly simpler controls.
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I've always been quite happy with the results from HDRtist. It's a very simple, free app with not a lot of configuration options, but it produces punchy, saturated images. It is by no means a replacement for Photomatix or any professional piece of software, but it does a decent job for shots that are just going to be posted to the web.
Another option is ...
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Photomatix would be my first choice. http://www.hdrsoft.com
It gives you a simple interface step-by step, some easy default choices but also a very sofisticated control panel if you are not satisfied with the default styles. I always get superior results comparing to Photoshop!
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After enabling the Auto Exposure Bracket feature, specifying the three exposure range you mentioned, use the "Interval timer shooting" option, selecting to shoot x3 photos at 1 second interval. Interval timer is located in the root level of the Shooting Menu.
Select Interval timer shooting menu option and press right arrow
Choose either "Now" as start time ...
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Try setting your camera to continuous high speed drive mode. I don't know Nikon's all that well, but I did notice that as one of the steps someone put in a guide I was able to find about your camera. It is possible that it only auto-drives the bracketed exposures in continuous shooting mode. From what I was reading, it sounds like it should only take one ...
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If it is like most DSLRs, depending on which release mode you have set, you may still need to press the shutter button for each exposure. What Auto Bracketing does is automatically shifts the exposure for several successive frames. Most cameras will bracket for three exposures. The default pattern for most cameras is 0, -, + but you can customize it in some ...
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This is simply how Nikon has decided to present things. Frankly, I find it odd and is something I mentioned in my reviews of these cameras.
The reasoning I guess is that HDR is a solution to shooting a backlit subject. That way, you go to backlight mode and either use the normal part which uses the flash to fill-in the foreground or use the HDR part which ...
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