Hot answers tagged handling
I customised a tupperware container by adding foam padding to carry a 30D + EF-S 10-22 whilst skiing/cycling. The camera and lens fits really snugly and the whole outfit is very lightweight, waterproof and goes nicely into a small backpack. It's survived several crashes whilst skiing so far, I highly doubt a little vibration will do it any damage (provided ...
I have been a mountain bike rider since 2000, I do a lot of trails, singletrack and even downhill. I have some experience with crashes and carrying cameras. My most sincere advice as both, a biker and a photographer is, you can't do both. Most of the time having delicate equipment in your backpack keeps you from fully enjoying the ride, because you'll ...
This is highly subjective so the best answer is for you to try them out in a store. If local stores do not have those, you can at least get a feel using the another close model for each brand like the Canon 7D and Nikon D300S. Obviously both cameras you are looking at are high-end units which dual control-dials, plenty of external controls. In terms of ...
Try a hand strap. These vary in price from $10 to $100, and similarly in construction and comfort, but the concept is the same: attaches to your camera (either by the normal strap lugs, via the tripod screw, or occasionally in some specialized way), and then you wrap your hand securely through. It's not just like those little wrist straps that come with a ...
Yes, vibration can damage parts of your camera (+lens). It depends - as other pointed out - a bit on how good the transmission of the amplitudes is. Keeping it on the body with your spine offering dampening would be a good choice, keeping it in a bag on the carrier will transmit every shake very direct. Anecdotal evidence: I took my Canon A1 along on some ...
Your best bet is to invest in a backpack-style camera bag with proper internal padding and straps to make sure everything stays in place. As with everything in photography, you can spend as much or as little as you like, but there's no point in scrimping. Try: Vanguard UP-Rise 48 Lowepro Pro Runner 350 AW Kata Bug-203 PL
i have heard of people putting bike handlebar grip tape on their camera... have a look at this stuff.
Some lenses are driven by a motor in the camera (usually higher-end or older ones) - in "compressing" the lens you will be driving the motor in the camera. - in Nikons this is a little slotted pin in the mounting ring - this is not on the lower-end cameras. Switching to manual focus retracts the drive pin back into the cmaera body, allowing the focus ring ...
Not having full time manual focusing still means you have both Auto and Manual modes, if I am correct. With lenses that have a manual mode I have not faced any problem at all- I do this regularly. After turning off the camera, I switch to manual, twist it to shortest length and switch back to Auto to keep it in place.
There are several reasons why push/pull zooms are no longer used: 1) Push/pull is for the glass and steel lenses of the previous century. Today's lenses are made from cheap flimsy plastic components, with which push/pull is impractical. 2) Push/pull is only practical with particular arrangements of optical elements and groups, and lens designs need to be ...
I have actually been surprised just how much usage my battery grip gets. I got it specifically for battery life alone, but even without that, the vertical grip capability it has for taking shots rotated 90 degrees is fantastic. I wouldn't have paid what I paid for it if I didn't get the battery capacity, but having it, I do use it just for day to day ...
Try a pair of shooting gloves that have the right thumb and index finger removed like these or these. You can also use a more typical 3/4 or 1/2 finger design like these marketed as biker's gloves. These styles come in a wide variety of materials. These are made of spandex and synthetic leather for use when wearing a wetsuit.
I used to have a couple of older zooms that were push/pull models. The biggest problem I had was when I was pointing almost directly up or down, and the lens would slide forward or back. Basically, gravity can be a problem. Models with focus/zoom rings are less prone to that problem.
I own a push/pull lens (Canon EF100-400 f4.5-5.6L IS USM). Changes to focal length (zoom) are much, much, much faster with push/pull. By the time you wind your way through 300mm of focal length using a ring style adjuster, you have missed the shot. Let's face it, push/pull is more suitable for telephoto zooms where there is quite a difference between minimum ...
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